I bought a new Oregon bar and chain combo for my stihl 170. It has been running fine but when I put the new bar on, its runs like it has no power. I know the parts #s all match up. Any suggestions?
Stihl not running right with new bar and chain
- Thread starter walhondingnashua
- Start date
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Chain too tight? Chain on backwards? Don't be offended, I'm just throwing stuff out there. Do the oil holes on the new bar line up correctly? Do you know how to check to see if the bar is getting oil. Hold the tip of the bar just above a piece of wood or something and rev the saw. You should see oil splatter. Does the gauge of the chain definitely match the bar? For example running .063 chain on a .050 bar would have a lot of friction, not even sure if you could do that . Is the chain somehow dull from new? Did you try taking the bar and chain off and then back on again, just to make sure everything is lined up right. Oh, maybe your sprocket is worn out and needs to be replaced?. I'm about out of ideas.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Oregon 105667 14-Inch Replacement Chain Saw Bar and Chain Combo For Stihl
The numbers looked like they should have lined up correctly. The bar and chain I replaced was a 14 in. as well. I guess the next step is to just pull is apart. It doesn't seem to be using oil up like it should. It is oiling but not nearly as fast as it used to. Would a lack of oil make it "bog down?"
The numbers looked like they should have lined up correctly. The bar and chain I replaced was a 14 in. as well. I guess the next step is to just pull is apart. It doesn't seem to be using oil up like it should. It is oiling but not nearly as fast as it used to. Would a lack of oil make it "bog down?"
maple1
Minister of Fire
Yes, it could.
Too tight also could.
Does it spin easily by hand?
Does it work OK when you put the old one back on?
Too tight also could.
Does it spin easily by hand?
Does it work OK when you put the old one back on?
maple1
Minister of Fire
Actually I think that might be the wrong chain for your saw. Searching I did told me it is 0.050 gauge, and your bar might be 0.043.
Maple 1- The new bar and chain came as a combo. Wouldn't it still me fine as long as the gauge of the chain and bar match?
It does run fine with the original stihl bar and a stihl chain on it. I might just have to bite the bullet and just buy stihl replacements. They are so much more expensive then the Oregon brand.
It does run fine with the original stihl bar and a stihl chain on it. I might just have to bite the bullet and just buy stihl replacements. They are so much more expensive then the Oregon brand.
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
My Dad had an Oregon bar that claimed to be a match for his 250 & the back of the bar was rubbing on the drive sprocket after it was tightened up. After inspecting the clearance is different on different bars even though it may say it’s an equivalent part/swap out.
I think the brake is free. Maybe it just isnt the right set up for my saw. It is an older 170 and i believe a few things are different on the newer ones. If I cant figure it out, Im just going to stick to stihl, even through i have money in the oregon.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Ok, you may be right - small brain fart on my part. I was picturing new chain on old bar.
I always just go to the Stihl guys here for my bars & chains. Not sure they cost much more than Oregon stuff I see on shelves of other stores.
There must be something off with it, not sure what but should be able to track it down with some close examination.
Can you move the chain by hand with the saw off and the chain brake off? If not you should be able to. It should also put out the same amount of oil as the old one.
My guess is that its not the correct one for this saw. Do you have this issue when you put the old one back on?
Any photos?
My guess is that its not the correct one for this saw. Do you have this issue when you put the old one back on?
Any photos?
So I took it all apart, cleaned everything again, put back together and its fine lol. I don't know. The only other variable I can think of is the Brother-in-Law using it, which has potential for issues lol. The chain was not as sharp as I would think it should be brand new, but thats an easy fix. Thanks everyone.
Damn BIL.
Roller nose can get stuck with debris, rinse in your mix. And,Get a dentist's pik to clean out the oil holes in the saw and bar (they throw them out).
Roller nose can get stuck with debris, rinse in your mix. And,Get a dentist's pik to clean out the oil holes in the saw and bar (they throw them out).
Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
Pferd sharpeners are similar & about half the price. At $6-$8 a chain to sharpen it pays for itself pretty quickly. There is a thread on here about them, if I recall correctly Pferd makes ( or did make) the Stihl sharpener.
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Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
jetsam
Minister of Fire
The round files that come in those things is incredible.
Get the Pferd branded one, it's half the price.
Get the Pferd branded one, it's half the price.
Keep practicing freehand,when you get the knack for it freehand you can out sharpen a new chainYes it is worth the price.
Chain comes out the closest to a new chain..
Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
I find that the 2in1 helps to keep the rakes @ the right gap/gauge . This give me a nice cutting chain. I use to get chains back from a shop and I do believe they never touched the rakes. Touched the rakes up and Bingo nice cut. The 2in1 gives me that result faster , even when giving a quick touchup in the field.
Just my findings.
