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Ziprich

Member
Sep 19, 2011
64
Western Md (Hagerstown)
I posted last year about my Harman TL-300 not keeping up with the winter. Over the summer I had my stove company come look at it. I was told my fire dome needed replaced. So after two service calls and parts it was a $800 bill! Now this year I wanted to be more careful not to burn out the fire dome so quickly. I can't buy one every two years. Even though I feel it was my fault last year due to a over fire. So this year I am running the stove again and I still feel like its not keeping the house as warm. maybe because it just colder these past two years. Anyway on to the questions. First, what stove and pipe temps are save for my stove and fire dome? Second, would a blower on my stove help that much, even if I just want the heat to travel upstairs from my basement? Thanks in advance!
 
Tell us about the basement..insulated or finished off?
 
That thousand degree over fire shouldn't have done anything to the refractory chamber. They hit you with the bill for replacing it on a two year old stove?
 
unfinished block walls. I know its not the best, but its the same I had two years ago.
Have you tried a fan blowing down the stairs?
What kind of temps does the basement see?
 
That thousand degree over fire shouldn't have done anything to the refractory chamber. They hit you with the bill for replacing it on a two year old stove?
Yes. not sure of the over burn temp. the stove was red and my ir thermo was maxed out. I think it went to 1200. Not sure. when he changed it he showed it to me. it looked bad, but I have no clue what I'm looking for.
 
Hard to compare heating two years ago and this year. We are setting records for cold this year. All you can gauge is how hot the stove is running compared to then.
 
No I haven't tried the fan, and I should. I also should hang a thermo in the basement. but I never did before.
Well I think BB hit the nail on the head.
All you can gauge is how hot the stove is running compared to then.
 
So how hot can I run this stove, and be safe for the fire dome?

You need to measure temps on the stove top as well as the flue, which you can do with an IR or a couple of mags. If you are ever glowing, you are WAY too hot, Flue and top may get very hot on startup and reload, but should calm down on an extended burn. The smaller Oakwood that I have cruises @ 500f top and 300f flue, give or take, with the rear burn chamber anywhere between 350f and 750f.

Where are you setting you primary air for long burns? Anything over 1/4-1/3 and you might be setting yourself up for overfire if you have a strong draft. Heating up your basement block prevents heat from getting upstairs, but a stove can only do what it can do... pushing too hard just burns it out.

A blower or fan will move heat off the stove and reduce the threshold for overfiring, as well as helping the existing convection flow... whether this added flow will heat the upstairs is another story altogether,

If you have poor wood, or poor draft, it easy easy to push the stove too hot with too much air... giving you insufficient heat output (except up the flue) with potential damage to the stove. Are you feeding into a 6" liner, interior or exterior, insulated or not?
 
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You need to measure temps on the stove top as well as the flue, which you can do with an IR or a couple of mags. If you are ever glowing, you are WAY too hot, Flue and top may get very hot on startup and reload, but should calm down on an extended burn. The smaller Oakwood that I have cruises @ 500f top and 300f flue, give or take, with the rear burn chamber anywhere between 350f and 750f.

Where are you setting you primary air for long burns? Anything over 1/4-1/3 and you might be setting yourself up for overfire if you have a strong draft. Heating up your basement block prevents heat from getting upstairs, but a stove can only do what it can do... pushing too hard just burns it out.

A blower or fan will move heat off the stove and reduce the threshold for overfiring, as well as helping the existing convection flow... whether this added flow will heat the upstairs is another story altogether,

If you have poor wood, or poor draft, it easy easy to push the stove too hot with too much air... giving you insufficient heat output (except up the flue) with potential damage to the stove. Are you feeding into a 6" liner, interior or exterior, insulated or not?
I think my wood is good. it has had two summers in the sun to dry out. and if my stove gets a little pink its only during reload. I want a little more heat and my father in law says "turn it up, that stove should be able to run you out of the house". but he doesn't pay for new parts. I might be being a baby because my house is kept at 68 to 70 with the oil kicking in only once in a while. I just feel like I run my ass off just to get by. I will get some temps from the stove, pipe and basement air and get back to the group. also how long should I let the stove air wide open during reloads? and how hot can it get? sometimes I will let it heat up for 10 to 15 mins.
 
No I haven't tried the fan, and I should. I also should hang a thermo in the basement. but I never did before.

I wouldn't run a stove remotely (like in a basement) without some sort of remote monitoring or alarm system. And I use a timer now whenever I start or reload a fire. I get too involved in stuff and would be sure to space it more than once.
 
My TL200 (metal version of your stove) doesnot "glow" on any exterior surfaces. Are you talking interior surfaces getting red or top load door, or another surface?
The small fan blowing toward stove from ground level of coldest room 24/7 theory works, it takes a bit to establish circulation.
 
No the only thing that gets pink is under the top load door. I can see it through the cut out of the top load door. Also if it gets really hot on reload the bottom of the pipe will get pink.
 
I either stay down during reloads or set a timer on my phone. And I have a smoke alarm in the basement with heat sensors. It calls the fire department automatically.
 
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