I have a Duravent class A chimney. Would a universal/other brand flue extension work with my excel stove pipe?
Thanks
Thanks
stove pipe assembly debate
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here are a few photos
if you have duravent you have to use the close clearance adaptor because you have air cooled pipe and not solid packed pipe
the close clearance adapt snaps into the support box from in the house.
it will snap to the box but extent over the small 6' pipe sticking out of the bottom of the class A
if you have duravent you have to use the close clearance adaptor because you have air cooled pipe and not solid packed pipe
the close clearance adapt snaps into the support box from in the house.
it will snap to the box but extent over the small 6' pipe sticking out of the bottom of the class A
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Ok, Now I am confused and may have been mis-sold by my stove supplier.
I have Duravent Class A chimney pipe. When buying my stove the stove shop sold me Excel Double Wall stove pipe and an adapter that I was using incorrectly. I told then that I was installing a duravent chimney.
Will I be able to use the stove pipe I was sold, with duravent's close clearance adaptor?
Will I be able to use the stove pipe I was sold, with the the Excel/Icc flue extension?
Should I just bring back the Excel stove pipe that I was sold, and find another supplier for the correct Duravent piping and close clearance adapter? This sounds like my only option.
I thought I was burning safely, come to find out I have had 10 "dangerous" fires.
Thank you for all of your help.
I have Duravent Class A chimney pipe. When buying my stove the stove shop sold me Excel Double Wall stove pipe and an adapter that I was using incorrectly. I told then that I was installing a duravent chimney.
Will I be able to use the stove pipe I was sold, with duravent's close clearance adaptor?
Will I be able to use the stove pipe I was sold, with the the Excel/Icc flue extension?
Should I just bring back the Excel stove pipe that I was sold, and find another supplier for the correct Duravent piping and close clearance adapter? This sounds like my only option.
I thought I was burning safely, come to find out I have had 10 "dangerous" fires.
Thank you for all of your help.
return the Stove adapt that you used at the top.
I would keep the ICC double wall. i think it is better pipe and better looking than the Duravent double wall.
but if you feel better then find some duravent closeclearance double wall pipe.
Get a Duravent close clearance adapt. snap it into the support box
Larger Diameter end up
Slip the ICC double wall over the closeclearance adapter
put 3 screws in the pipe into the closeclearance adapter
put screws in the rest of the joints and you are done.
I would keep the ICC double wall. i think it is better pipe and better looking than the Duravent double wall.
but if you feel better then find some duravent closeclearance double wall pipe.
Get a Duravent close clearance adapt. snap it into the support box
Larger Diameter end up
Slip the ICC double wall over the closeclearance adapter
put 3 screws in the pipe into the closeclearance adapter
put screws in the rest of the joints and you are done.
Thank you very much for your help.
You truly are an asset to this community.
I will update this post with pictures when I get the close clearance adapter in.
Dan
You truly are an asset to this community.
I will update this post with pictures when I get the close clearance adapter in.
Dan
Gooserider, I reposted the pictures in the posts that you moved. Thanks
Of course I'm not really going to leave the seam facing forward or the labels on, but it does help understand what the manufacturers intended. The only thing I'm personally not familar with is how to seal the joints of the double wall pipe ? The connections seem a lot looser than on stovepipe I have dealt with in the past, so I think it would be even more important to seal the joints, but one really can't see what one is doing...
How does one approach this ? A smear of stove cement on the inside of the female end of each inner pipe prior to assembly ?
Of course I'm not really going to leave the seam facing forward or the labels on, but it does help understand what the manufacturers intended. The only thing I'm personally not familar with is how to seal the joints of the double wall pipe ? The connections seem a lot looser than on stovepipe I have dealt with in the past, so I think it would be even more important to seal the joints, but one really can't see what one is doing...
How does one approach this ? A smear of stove cement on the inside of the female end of each inner pipe prior to assembly ?
KeithO said:
ARGHHH.... I tried to move them, and had partial success - the text appears to have moved, and the post has dissappeared from the original thread (I also deleted your move request in that thread) but the pictures have not moved with the text.
Craig, is this something you can fix (possibly re-sync the photo database?) or does Keith need to repost his pictures?
Gooserider
i just finished my install. what i did was cut the outer pipe 1.5" shorter than the inner. then i recrimped the stainless so it would fit into the the stove properly. now i can screw to the inner liner. it was the only way i could see to get my pipe running the correct way and mate properly with the ceiling support.
JohnnyBravo said:
???
how did you connect your double wall pipe to the support box?
did you have a flue extension sticking out of the box?
KeithO said:
There is NO need to seal the joints on double wall pipe
Not familiar with what brand you used but most double wall pipes have a good fit.
It can be loose.
I see no reason to seal any kind of joints on wood stove pipe (as long as you dont have a gaping hole in the pipe Joint)
Just a good mechanical fasting (3 screws or rivits) so it dont come apart.
You have have a 1/2 hole in the side of your pipe if you have good draft smoke will not come out.
air will suck into the leaks and out stack.
hearthtools said:
I have to disagree on that one Rod. Besides air leaks reducing overall draft, every pipe leak I have ever had has accumulated layers of creosote right at the leak due to the colder air cooling the gases passing by the leak when they get hit by the air.
BrotherBart said:
I can see this with a large gap in your pipe fitting because of a half @ss install. If there was a gap any more that a 32nd of an inch in the pipe I would not use it.
but if you are using Prefitting pipe Double or single wall with male and female ends the little hair line gap 32th of an inch or less is not going to be a problem.
if you stove is doing its job Cold air will not be in the house sucking into the pipe.
the air in the house should be warm.
if the double wall pipe was any good there is no need to seal each joint for it is not a POSITIVE pressure system.
hearthtools said:
the adapter from class a to stove pipe had a male (crimped) end on it that fit into the inner pipe. the top end of my pipe was also crimped on the outer casing. the way they went together was kinda cool the inner sleeve crimps down and the outer sleeve crimps up. seemed very easy to funk up. it was hard to tell if the inner liner was fitting inside. i also cut the top of the pipe where it met the addapter so as not to have any exposed crimped ends. sorry i wish i had a cammera so i could explain this better.
KeithO said:
Great, glad you made it work for the photos, but how did you get the stove to draft sideways like that?
Gooserider
Part of the problem is that one just can't see the fitup of the 2 inners at all. I am amazed at how loose it goes together. I thought some stove cement wouldn't hurt. I have done that before with single wall but it is easy to see what is going on and the fit up was also much tighter. The double wall is made by Selkirk.
Gooserider said:Great, glad you made it work for the photos, but how did you get the stove to draft sideways like that?
Gooserider
OK. Time to define roles here.
Gooserider = Moderator
BroBart = Comedian
BrotherBart said:Gooserider said:Great, glad you made it work for the photos, but how did you get the stove to draft sideways like that?
Gooserider
OK. Time to define roles here.
Gooserider = Moderator
BroBart = Comedian
you know there are 100's of comedians out of work you you guys are trying to make jokes?
hearthtools said:BrotherBart said:Gooserider said:Great, glad you made it work for the photos, but how did you get the stove to draft sideways like that?
Gooserider
OK. Time to define roles here.
Gooserider = Moderator
BroBart = Comedian
you know there are 100's of comedians out of work you you guys are trying to make jokes?
Hey, comedians out of work hang out on Forums. Stove shop owners out of work host Forums.
One thing that might help to clarify - the outside wall doesn't really matter in terms of flow direction - ignore it. The INSIDE pipe should be like a cascade of funnels with the small ends pointing down, going one to the next until you get to the stove. As long as the insides all have the little / crimped / male ends pointing down and going INSIDE the pipes below and OUTSIDE the pipes above, then all is well, and you do whatever it takes to make the outside pipes go together properly.
At least that's the way it seems to me...
Gooserider
At least that's the way it seems to me...
Gooserider
That makes perfect sense gooserider. So does the pipe working on negative pressure so air will be sucked in not smoke coming out if everything is working correctly. Those are valid points i can take to my pa-in-law, now maybe he will leave me the heck alone.....or not.
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