Supervent question

[Ludlow]

Hello all,

I have been reading here for quite awhile and finally have a question for y'all. That is because Im finally getting a stove that Ive wanted for a very long time!

I was installing some 6" class A Supervent and when drilling through the outter wall for screws for a support band, I went through and hit the inner pipe. The outter pipe was hard to drill and then it suddenly it wasnt if you know what I mean.....

I just bumped it with the drill bit and left a small dent. Judging by the difficulty in drilling the SS outter wall, I dont believe I did any actual drilling of the inner wall in the nanosecond before I reacted and pulled back. It did leave a pimple size dent on the inner pipe however. I believe the inner wall is 304 SS?

The support band is for sitting in a cathedral ceiling support box. It is all installed and of course the thoughts start creeping in after the fact. Something to worry about or am I just being paranoid? Tell me Im not the only klutz to have this happen!

Thanks for any replies.

 

[begreen]

It's probably ok

 

[webby3650]

It’s fine as long as there’s no actual hole. I don’t ever pre-drill for that very reason. Sheet metal screws punch through ok on their own. I never use the screws from the factory though, what a joke!

 

[Ludlow]

Thanks. I can disassemble the pipe from below and keep inspecting it every year to monitor it.

I used a cathedral support box but also a roof support. In the instructions I have it recommends either the added roof support or the guy support to prevent sway in winds. When I sent a pic to the manuf. tech he said to not use the roof support! When I showed him the place where it recommends one he said "Oh...OK. You can use it" . Conflicting info drives me crazy!

The reason I wanted to add the roof support is because I am suspending the pipe below the roof to get past a 2x12 spreader beam. Due to the 10/12 pitch I have 4' of pipe out the roof. Did not want to get the stack rocking and rolling in high winds. That and I am leery of depending 100% on the support box as I have read about the tack welds being crap!

 

[webby3650]

I don’t see the need for the roof support above the box considering it’s so close to the support box. Unless the pipe is more than 5’ out of the roof a brace kit isn’t needed either.
The flashing will help to stabilize the pipe as well.

 

[Ludlow]

Wasnt confident in the tack welds in the bottom of the box from what I read on the web. Second was that it is a seasonal cabin that gets a good snow and ice pack on the roof that can push on the pipe. Have seen several that were bent down the roof from this. I dont like roof guys if i can help it. Lastly the pipe just spins when assembling/disassembling without it. And, the manuf. recommends it....or doesnt. They arent sure!.

 

[webby3650]

We typically secure the pipe to the flashing for added strength. The roof support certainly won’t hurt anything. The snow is more likely to rip off your storm collar than damage the pipe or flashing though. Being near the peak, it’s doubtful you’d have any issues with snow and ice damming, usually see that low on a metal roof.

 

[Ludlow]

Appreciate the comments! Great to talk to an actual installer!

Getting back to the original question: Maybe Im just overthinking. Common sense says that even if I drilled through the inner pipe (glad I didnt!), it would actually result in a cool spot as air would get sucked in the stack, until it got covered with creosote that is. Maybe I just dont have a working understanding of the safety inherent in class A. For example, the support box has zero tolerance for the 2" minimum. If the pipe was tilted a quarter inch one way or the other is the place going to burn down? Cant be that critical but not something to take lightly either.

I got a Heatilator ws18. A stripped down Quadrafire from what I understand. Cabin is 800 sqft plus loft.