Support Box Trim cathedral ceiling; 24" OC rafter

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

littlebluehouse

New Member
Nov 25, 2018
4
camden maine
Hi all,

I'm new to Hearth.com and also new to installing stove pipes. Installing a Jotul F400 and running the stove pipe through a cathedral ceiling; 5/12 pitch; near the ridge.

anyhow, my rafters are spaced 24" oc. Luckily, where I want to run the chimney/install the support box is right next to a rafter; however, the next is, as you guessed, 24" away. How do I trim out the 10x10 frame without access to the next rafter (I'd really prefer not to take out extra drywall).

Thank you!
 
You may have to be a contortionist to do it, but you should be able to run two pieces of framing lumber, 22-1/2" long,
between your rafters/ceiling joists. The challenge is to be able to fasten them.
The best was I've found is with deck screws & a long extension drive in my screwgun.
I start them into the boards & using a small level & pencil to mark a plumb line, I attach
the end I can see first.
Then, I use a speed square to ensure that board is perpendicular to the rafter/ceiling joist &
drive the screws into the far end. Add the smaller member between the two cross pieces
& screw that to them, using your level for plumbness & speed square for perpendicularity.
Hope this makes sense...
 
  • Like
Reactions: begreen
Daksy, that does make sense. I was doing some late night pondering and figured that was going to be my best choice. how do you accommodate for pitch to make a level and plumb box? thanks for the reply
 
That's where the level comes into play. As long as your line is plumb & you fasten your lumber true to that line,
your ceiling support box will be in the correct position. Frame in your opening & slide your support box in.
It will hit on the low side of the roof sheathing & stop. Attach a magnetic torpedo level to the box & plumb it.
Lightly scribe the pitch of the ceiling on both sides of the box. Remove the box & transfer the scribed lines to
the upper corner & parallel to the originals. Join the lines together across the lower side of the box & cut along
these lines with tin snips. If you did everything correctly, your ceiling support box will fit nicely in the hole, be flush
against the sheathing & perfectly plumb.
 
Last edited:
great, thank you! yeah I framed it out this morning; not too bad. did find myself contorted to reach those joists but it framed out alright. once I get a dry day I'll take out the roof and drop that support box in. thanks for the advice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DAKSY
actually, question about the support box; we are using excel ultra black. now, I have my frame using the rafter as one side, with the 3 other stated 2x4's creating my 10x10 box.

however, am I allowed to have the support box right up alongside the rafter/truss? I thought I could but the instructions ((broken link removed to http://icc-chimney.com/c/icc/file_db/docs_document.file_en/XLUSA-II_2012-01.pdf)) are making it seem like I need to actually come off the truss with a 2x4 to give another inch; not a huge deal, I'd just have to extend my hole and move that cross piece. am I reading into this correctly?
 
Last edited:
No need for that extra material. The 2" CTC is built into the ceiling support box. Look at the pic below,
right out of the Excel Installation manual:

[Hearth.com] Support Box Trim cathedral ceiling; 24" OC rafter
 
Last edited by a moderator: