I'm starting this issue as a separate thread since my other one has multiple questions and has been mostly resolved. My 22in snout has a 2 degree incline in the wrong direction. The liner exits the base of the flue at an angle towards the thimble.Even with the T flush against the back wall, and a lot of downward pressure on the snout, I have the incline. The only viable option I see is to mandrel bend the snout. Is it worth the effort for a 2 degree incline? Will this significantly affect the draft? Thanks.
T snout incline: resolved
- Thread starter AtomicDog
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If that's as close as you can get it to plumb/level, I say run with it.
The best way to see if it's gonna work well is to use it.
If it's going to inhibit draft, you will be the first to know.
That's when you can take corrective action.
I know it's not ideal, but I bet it'll work fine if your chimney is tall enough.
The best way to see if it's gonna work well is to use it.
If it's going to inhibit draft, you will be the first to know.
That's when you can take corrective action.
I know it's not ideal, but I bet it'll work fine if your chimney is tall enough.
I would do it correctly, especially with a basement install and the concern of negative pressure. Would it be possible to drop to the lower thimble and run it out there? Or is that too low in relation to the stove top?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
The degree of incline is not related to draft, it is related to liquid solids being able to drain back to the stove and get reburned.
The slope of the pipe is related to both draft and draining of material and it needs to be at the least level. But honestly there will be very little material in that section of pipe anything coming down the liner will end up in the tee cap not coming out the snout.
I agree! Go with it. I see this all the time. Honestly it's very common to say the least. Unless your flue is very short, you will not notice any ill effects is my guess.
I have to differ with you there. It is directly related to draft. The incline of the horizontal pipe section is called out in many stove manuals for this very reason.
With the old Englander this may not be a big deal, but with a modern tube stove it often is when draft is already marginal.
With proper burning practices, liquid is of no concern. Is all about the draft in modern stoves.
I don't have enough liner to drop down to the lower opening, and it would make cleaning much more difficult. I guess it would be possible to extend the liner. The flue is 21ft. I'll probably get a modern stove or wood furnace by next season. My only hesitation is that they seem very particular about moisture content. Regardless I want to have a plan for the snout if it becomes an issue. I'm leaning more towards sealing that entire chamber with mortar or metal and not having a horizontal run. The whole "box" would only be about 12x18 inches anyway. I'm sure I'll change my mind a few more times as I learn more.
Just open up the wall and do it right sealing off that chamber is a horrible idea there will be no good way to clean it it probably wont draft right and it is just the wrong way to do it for many reasons. I am sorry to be so blunt but i think you need to hear it.
I'll concede that it's a bad idea based on the expertize of the folks who replied. I'm hoping someone can explain why so that I'll understand the system better. Having the stove exhaust into this chamber and then up the flue was the intent when it was constructed, although that was 60 years ago and things have changed. Is it the type of appliance that makes it no longer viable? The chimney was built for coal and was in use for over 50 years. I think I'm the first to attach a wood burner. Cleaning would be much simpler because the lower opening could have a door installed. I tried moving this topic to this thread from another one, but the other one is rolling right along as well. Sorry for the confusion. I can't express enough how much I appreciate the comments and advice as I gain a better understanding of what I'm trying to accomplish.
Seems to me if a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right. You will have less problems and greater satisfaction with the result. Sometimes this means more work, but that is temporary. The result is much more permanent. I'm going through this with setting a new entry gate. Right where one post goes I found a 3" root, crossing a defunct 1" water pipe, and both trapping a big stone (larger than a bread loaf). I thought of lots of ways to avoid having to tangle with this mess including moving the gate post and making the gate wider. But in the end I bit the bullet and hand excavated around obstacles enough so that I could finally saw out the root, then continue excavating around the rock until I could pull it out. What should have been a one hour hole dig turned into a 3 hour pita, but it is done now and I am back on plan.
I agree with begreen, although I would have ended up with a wider gate. That incline will bug me from now on. The T with the 22in snout is the correct way per the "assembly instructions," but is it the best way for my chimney? The T adds a 22in horizontal run and a 90deg turn up the liner. Using the existing masonry "T" means no right angle turns or horizontal runs. Not using the T that I already have installed will be a LOT more work due to adding an air tight clean out door and sealing the bottom of the chamber with concrete. The company that sold me the liner, whom I believe is a supporter of this site, recommends not using the T, or leaving the cap off if I do. The board members unanimously feel that using the T is the "right" way. I'm trying to find out the reasoning behind both opinions so that I can form my own.
A sealed system from the stove pipe to the chimney cap is going to give the best performance and easiest to keep clean. Keeping it sized correctly is important if the intent is to upgrade to a modern stove. Regardless, even without the liner there is still a 90 deg turn from the chimney thimble to the tile inside the chimney. And there will still be a horiz. run into this thimble, right? FWIW, I am not in favor of leaving the cap off on the bottom of the tee. I would rather either continue with some more liner down from the tee and cap it off at the cleanout door below. Or I would cap it at the tee and simply pull the pipe and scoop + vacuum out the sote after cleaning.
I totally agree with begreen about either using the tee cap or extending it to the clean out and sealing it there. I dont know where you got the liner but they are wrong i am sorry. You want the only air in that stack to be coming through your stove if it comes from anywhere else it will hurt draft and cool the flue gasses causing creosote. The reason you don't want to just vent into that cavity sealed or not is that you will be taking a 6" pipe and dumping it into a large chamber where there will be all kinds of turbulence and slowing and cooling the exhaust gasses. By doing so you are asking for poor draft and creosote buildup which due to the construction will be next to impossible to clean.
That makes sense. If the gases expand they'll cool. There's not much room in the T below the snout. I was concerned that my pre-EPA stove would clog it up pretty quickly. Extending the bottom of the T with liner and then capping it will give me much needed volume and ease cleaning. I'll chisel out part of the brick or add an elbow to correct the snout angle and add length to the base. That should be right if I'm understanding everything that's been posted. Thanks for setting me on the right path.
Update: After tearing out the wall where the crocks went through, I discovered that the back wall was angled and was preventing the T from being vertical. I ground out the face of the bricks enough to true up the T and also get a little downward slope on the snout. Since I have sort of an Appalachian theme going in the room, I'm considering cutting a hole in a sawmill blade to encircle the snout and cover up the hole. I can then remove it for easy cleaning of the liner. I poured a perlite/concrete "slug" about a foot deep above where the liner comes out of the bottom of the flue. Once it hardened I filled the remainder of the flue tile with loose perlite up to the cap. I don't know if its the best way, but it seemed right at the time.
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