tarm solo inova 50 burning wood just to burn wood

[Fred61]

Sorry, didn't mean to abandon you. Back home now. Are you measuring your moisture on a fresh split surface? Large rounds will take years to dry as long as the bark is intact. Are you able to isolate your tank to separate it from the floor to see how high you can get the temperature in the storage tank? If You've been burning large rounds for the last month, the first order of business is to do a thorough cleaning of the boiler then try to get some dry wood to burn. Check the moisture on a fresh split surface.

 

[Bob Rohr]

Sorry, didn't mean to abandon you. Back home now. Are you measuring your moisture on a fresh split surface? Large rounds will take years to dry as long as the bark is intact. Are you able to isolate your tank to separate it from the floor to see how high you can get the temperature in the storage tank? If You've been burning large rounds for the last month, the first order of business is to do a thorough cleaning of the boiler then try to get some dry wood to burn. Check the moisture on a fresh split surface.

Sounds like more heating load than the boiler can keep up with? heating the home, shop, and tank all at once?

 

[MainelyWood7]

I have a Tarm Solo 40. Check your Owners Manual on how to set the temperature knob on the right of the control panel. If I remember correctly the knob needs to be pulled away from the control panel slightly and then rotated to the right past the stop. This will ensure max temp output from the boiler.

 

[wolfe64]

I have an old slab under the new slab with one inch blue board in between

I will be installing a Tarm Bonus in the spring and had not thought about an insulated slab. How thick is your new slab?

 

[Fred61]

Sounds like more heating load than the boiler can keep up with? heating the home, shop, and tank all at once?

That thought quickly passed through my head when the pour over slab was mentioned. Thinking a re-pour doesn't necessarily repair an ill prepared base and one inch of insulation in inadequate for a concrete slab that could be wet but I chose to go with the subject that most all beginners encounter.
But, you're right. It could easily be the cause.

 

[maple1]

Also, not sure what the present situation is or if the pics are up to date, but there is also a lot of uninsulated pipe showing in them. And a lot of exposed concrete block. More potential for heat loss there too. Maybe more from storage depending how well it got insulated all said & done. I think most of my storage losses are downward, into my uninsulated basement slab, even though I stuffed 2 layers of 1.5" foamboard under them. Or most of them as best I could - that part was a pretty cabbaged up affair.

But I still am primarily suspecting damp wood, and now a very dirty boiler, as we haven't had any feedback on boiler cleanings and I think it was mentioned that performance had worsened over time. Then there's the return temp issue. The loading unit might be dirty inside or something, if the reported return temps are accurate. Close up pic of those 3 guages when operating might help, along with pics of other temp guages on the manifold stuff I see.

Also, on another earlier question - flue draft would be measured with a manometer. Dwyer Mark II Model 25 is a popular one & fairly cheap.

 

[maple1]

I will be installing a Tarm Bonus in the spring and had not thought about an insulated slab. How thick is your new slab?

If you are going to be heating a slab via in-floor, you for sure want to make sure it's insulated underneath. If not, the ground under it will be a constant heat sink.

 

[rippa25m]

I don't have a pressure system but my tarm 50 (5th year) has never had creosote or bridging. I split the wood fairly small, let it dry to under 20%, cross-stacked for air flow. Measuring moisture should be done by splitting a piece and checking inside the split. The Tarm has been great, bringing outgoing storage water temp to over 180 before I stop. This is more work but it pays off. Good luck with the Tarm - a very good boiler.

I don't have a pressure system but my tarm 50 (5th year) has never had creosote or bridging. I split the wood fairly small, let it dry to under 20%, cross-stacked for air flow. Measuring moisture should be done by splitting a piece and checking inside the split. The Tarm has been great, bringing outgoing storage water temp to over 180 before I stop. This is more work but it pays off. Good luck with the Tarm - a very good boiler.

 

[rippa25m]

So I shut off the pump to the loading valve and let the temp come up to 170 in the boiler. Then I turned it on and let it run for 5 minutes. This is the temps I got at the loading valve

 

[rippa25m]

I will be installing a Tarm Bonus in the spring and had not thought about an insulated slab. How thick is your new slab?

6 inches

 

[rippa25m]

Also, not sure what the present situation is or if the pics are up to date, but there is also a lot of uninsulated pipe showing in them. And a lot of exposed concrete block. More potential for heat loss there too. Maybe more from storage depending how well it got insulated all said & done. I think most of my storage losses are downward, into my uninsulated basement slab, even though I stuffed 2 layers of 1.5" foamboard under them. Or most of them as best I could - that part was a pretty cabbaged up affair.

But I still am primarily suspecting damp wood, and now a very dirty boiler, as we haven't had any feedback on boiler cleanings and I think it was mentioned that performance had worsened over time. Then there's the return temp issue. The loading unit might be dirty inside or something, if the reported return temps are accurate. Close up pic of those 3 guages when operating might help, along with pics of other temp guages on the manifold stuff I see.

Also, on another earlier question - flue draft would be measured with a manometer. Dwyer Mark II Model 25 is a popular one & fairly cheap.

 

[rippa25m]

How bout a close up pic of the loading unit & dials while you're burning? Looks like its plumbed right.

 

[rippa25m]

Also, not sure what the present situation is or if the pics are up to date, but there is also a lot of uninsulated pipe showing in them. And a lot of exposed concrete block. More potential for heat loss there too. Maybe more from storage depending how well it got insulated all said & done. I think most of my storage losses are downward, into my uninsulated basement slab, even though I stuffed 2 layers of 1.5" foamboard under them. Or most of them as best I could - that part was a pretty cabbaged up affair.

But I still am primarily suspecting damp wood, and now a very dirty boiler, as we haven't had any feedback on boiler cleanings and I think it was mentioned that performance had worsened over time. Then there's the return temp issue. The loading unit might be dirty inside or something, if the reported return temps are accurate. Close up pic of those 3 guages when operating might help, along with pics of other temp guages on the manifold stuff I see.

Also, on another earlier question - flue draft would be measured with a manometer. Dwyer Mark II Model 25 is a popular one & fairly cheap.

I've cleaned the boiler thrall and the chimney too. I've split the wood to check moisture contents and it's averaging 20% my room with the storage has 1.5 blue board on all the walls 6 inches of roll insulation in the ceiling and all around the tanks then blown in isolation to fill the room

 

[rippa25m]

I've cleaned the boiler thrall and the chimney too. I've split the wood to check moisture contents and it's averaging 20% my room with the storage has 1.5 blue board on all the walls 6 inches of roll insulation in the ceiling and all around the tanks then blown in isolation to fill the room

After running wide open for two hours this is my load valve temps

 

[maple1]

Thinking now there's something wrong with the element in your loading unit. Either somehow defective, or its dirty. I would first check with whoever I purchased it from. I don't have my manual in front of me right now but I don't think its a huge job to get it out & check it? Is that an LK? Mine goes right to 155 return on startup then settles back to 140, even when starting with stone cold storage. If there aren't decent filters in the right spot, I suspect there's dirt in there.


You should still be able to get your temps up but it would be at the expense of making creosote in your boiler.

What are temps in & out of your slab during that burning?

 

[rippa25m]

Thinking now there's something wrong with the element in your loading unit. Either somehow defective, or its dirty. I would first check with whoever I purchased it from. I don't have my manual in front of me right now but I don't think its a huge job to get it out & check it? Is that an LK? Mine goes right to 155 return on startup then settles back to 140, even when starting with stone cold storage. If there aren't decent filters in the right spot, I suspect there's dirt in there.


You should still be able to get your temps up but it would be at the expense of making creosote in your boiler.

I'm not seeing any creosote but I'm not seeing temps above 150 in the boiler. My stack temp is 450

 

[maple1]

I added the question about slab temps after you quoted.

I see a 30° DT through the boiler. So it is making heat. What speed is the loading pump on?

 

[rippa25m]

I added the question about slab temps after you quoted.

I see a 30° DT through the boiler. So it is making heat. What speed is the loading pump on?

Low

 

[rippa25m]

Low

Have all the zones off

 

[maple1]

Slab in & out?

 

[maple1]

Guess I'm typing too fast. Your storage should be heating if the loads are off. Have temps in & out of that? And tank temps?

Still curious about that cast rad too.

 

[rippa25m]

Slab in & out?

Slab is off I'm heating with a space heater

 

[rippa25m]

Slab is off I'm heating with a space heater

140 at top of tanks 80 at bottom

 

[rippa25m]

I'm keeping the shop at 70 with a space heater

 

[rippa25m]

I'm keeping the shop at 70 with a space heater

Slab temp is 66 right now wit no water circulation