The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread
- Thread starter Heizer
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Woke up this morning to my wife calling me into the living room in a panic, afraid the house was about to burn down. When the fog of sleep cleared, I realized the situation wasn't quite as dire as she made it out to be; there was a rattling a burning smell coming from the blower. Has anyone had issues with theirs? I'm assuming this is an easily replaceable part, but am I better off getting a replacement directly from Regency or going 3rd party. That got me thinking about other maintenance issues. Has anyone had to replace their door gasket or cat yet? What is a reasonable life span for these items?
Thanks
Thanks
I believe the fan has a 2 year warranty so you might want to call your dealer. It is easy to remove and replace the fan. You just need a screwdriver and socket set to remove a couple screws and a couple bolts. Look at the install instruction in the manual.
Our CI2600 gets installed next Wednesday, I’m so excited! Hopefully all the manufacturing kinks are worked out by now.
I know this has been asked before but I could not see any responses back. I would also like to know how and what people are using as a DYI to clean out your liners and how often ? I purchased the Gardus Inc RCH205 Sooteater Rotary Chimney Cleaning System from Amazon, Received it yesterday and went to clean out the liner earlier today. Unfortunately during my cleaning 2 of the rods broke broke near the drill when working. I was cleaning from the fireplace up, and I basically started with all the rods attached and up to the cap working my way down. I was suprised to notice that the rods included are hollow which might be the main reason these broke. Maybe the torque was too much from my drill ? Not really sure, but I do know this is being sent back.
So what is everyone else doing / using for cleaning ?
So what is everyone else doing / using for cleaning ?
Attachments
FreqZ - I also bought a sooteater and plan to use it in the off season. Did you remove the cast top of the insert to get better access to the flue?
As for rods breaking did you use your drill at full speed or did you throttle it?
As for rods breaking did you use your drill at full speed or did you throttle it?
I just slid the metal plate back by the bypass plate and inserted it right there.
I used my drill at a very low speed. I used a Ridgid 18V 1/2" cordless.
I have spent a ton of time reading up on basically this sooteater and I think I could of done a few things different.
First I would make a guide out of 3/4 PVC pipe that would go from the bottom of the fireplace ( Closest place for the drill ) and curve it from there to up just pass bi-pass plate to extenc just over the flue diverter metal piece. ( I don't know what it's called put it's there and you can feel it with your hand. I would then set the pole up so the whip it on the top part with enough extension near the bottom of the front where you would connect the other rods.
I think by doing this it will help with the stress of spinning around the bend, and also protect the rod from digging into the sharp edges while spinning.
I think I might also replace the heavy gauge whip with a thinner whip line.
I'm also looking at picking up one of those semi rigid borescope or endoscope wireless cameras you can hook up to your phone or tablet to see exactly how dirty and how clean I get it from top to bottom.
I used my drill at a very low speed. I used a Ridgid 18V 1/2" cordless.
I have spent a ton of time reading up on basically this sooteater and I think I could of done a few things different.
First I would make a guide out of 3/4 PVC pipe that would go from the bottom of the fireplace ( Closest place for the drill ) and curve it from there to up just pass bi-pass plate to extenc just over the flue diverter metal piece. ( I don't know what it's called put it's there and you can feel it with your hand. I would then set the pole up so the whip it on the top part with enough extension near the bottom of the front where you would connect the other rods.
I think by doing this it will help with the stress of spinning around the bend, and also protect the rod from digging into the sharp edges while spinning.
I think I might also replace the heavy gauge whip with a thinner whip line.
I'm also looking at picking up one of those semi rigid borescope or endoscope wireless cameras you can hook up to your phone or tablet to see exactly how dirty and how clean I get it from top to bottom.
I just read all of your writings. I think it is time for me to share my experience.
Purchased my CI-2600 in Nov 2016. Had many problems.
First the restrictor plate: I noticed the jet of air was hitting my first log (E/W loading) at an upstream angle of about 30 degres.
I took my ratchet, lossen the bolts and realign the plate so the air will go parallel to the floor of the unit. I had to use a web cam with a laptop to be able to see what I was doing. So bringing the plate up would lower the angle.
The seal of my door was defective, so I had to remove the door and checked it carefully and it became obvious.
Called the dealer for service and then they fixed it.
On the next fires I noticed the air circulation in the insert is still going sideways when the door is closed, did the test with the paper pull and the door was ok. Then I checked the seal between the glass and the frame of the door, basinka !
Again called the dealer and it was fixed. The symptom of this was visible because there was always a clear area next to the glass seal where the fresh air was coming in.
After those item have been fixed I started to really appreciate this insert.
This being said there is still one issue and it is about the fan thermal sensor:
After a reload I would normally let the temp monitor go up to 700 F then if I manually activate the fan ,within 30 seconds I will ear the sensor to engage. If I let it go on automatic it may turn on after an additional 30 to 45 minutes.
So this tells me that the fan temp sensor is overly sensitive to vibration and it is not normal. Is it a temp sensor or a vibration sensor ? I am qualified enough in electronics and electro-mechanics to make such affirmation. So they will ship me the new temp sensor and I will replace it myself.
*** A good trick I heard: I also found the fan was quitting too early while there was some more eat to extract and I would like a longer operation. The trick is : cleanup a penny, using some aluminium HVAC tape, manage to have the penny to hold in place on top of the fan heat sensor without covering it. Push the fan in its place insuring the penny is still there. This made the fan to quit a lot later than before.
I have also a question:
I never dared to load my insert North-South, my wood is consistently 16 in. long, loading it so would make the tip of the log being a close as 1 in. to the glass of the door. Is it acceptable ?
Purchased my CI-2600 in Nov 2016. Had many problems.
First the restrictor plate: I noticed the jet of air was hitting my first log (E/W loading) at an upstream angle of about 30 degres.
I took my ratchet, lossen the bolts and realign the plate so the air will go parallel to the floor of the unit. I had to use a web cam with a laptop to be able to see what I was doing. So bringing the plate up would lower the angle.
The seal of my door was defective, so I had to remove the door and checked it carefully and it became obvious.
Called the dealer for service and then they fixed it.
On the next fires I noticed the air circulation in the insert is still going sideways when the door is closed, did the test with the paper pull and the door was ok. Then I checked the seal between the glass and the frame of the door, basinka !
Again called the dealer and it was fixed. The symptom of this was visible because there was always a clear area next to the glass seal where the fresh air was coming in.
After those item have been fixed I started to really appreciate this insert.
This being said there is still one issue and it is about the fan thermal sensor:
After a reload I would normally let the temp monitor go up to 700 F then if I manually activate the fan ,within 30 seconds I will ear the sensor to engage. If I let it go on automatic it may turn on after an additional 30 to 45 minutes.
So this tells me that the fan temp sensor is overly sensitive to vibration and it is not normal. Is it a temp sensor or a vibration sensor ? I am qualified enough in electronics and electro-mechanics to make such affirmation. So they will ship me the new temp sensor and I will replace it myself.
*** A good trick I heard: I also found the fan was quitting too early while there was some more eat to extract and I would like a longer operation. The trick is : cleanup a penny, using some aluminium HVAC tape, manage to have the penny to hold in place on top of the fan heat sensor without covering it. Push the fan in its place insuring the penny is still there. This made the fan to quit a lot later than before.
I have also a question:
I never dared to load my insert North-South, my wood is consistently 16 in. long, loading it so would make the tip of the log being a close as 1 in. to the glass of the door. Is it acceptable ?
Last edited:
Just a FYI with the Sooteater line. I received this response from Gardus this morning. I think I will be giving this other model from a different dealer :
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...himney-cleaning-system-for-chimney-liners.php
Thank you for getting in touch with us regarding the SootEater. Looking at the pictures leads me to believe the rods where asked to run at an angle to tight for the rods. The Owner’s Manual provides good pictures of proper and improper angles to run the black rods. Often using a RCH205 SootEater to clean 6” flue creates angles too sharp for the product. There is always the possibility the rods are defective but my guess is that they are correct. The rods are hollow.
The product you reference at Rockford Chimney Supply is a better product for your assignment. The SLK-24 is specifically designed for 6 – 8” stainless steel pipe. The white rods are small diameter and thus more flexible. It also uses a differently designed cleaning head. Rockford specializes in stainless steel chimney linters and thus sells our product.
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...himney-cleaning-system-for-chimney-liners.php
Thank you for getting in touch with us regarding the SootEater. Looking at the pictures leads me to believe the rods where asked to run at an angle to tight for the rods. The Owner’s Manual provides good pictures of proper and improper angles to run the black rods. Often using a RCH205 SootEater to clean 6” flue creates angles too sharp for the product. There is always the possibility the rods are defective but my guess is that they are correct. The rods are hollow.
The product you reference at Rockford Chimney Supply is a better product for your assignment. The SLK-24 is specifically designed for 6 – 8” stainless steel pipe. The white rods are small diameter and thus more flexible. It also uses a differently designed cleaning head. Rockford specializes in stainless steel chimney linters and thus sells our product.
Yes that happened to me. This is what I saw. Sometimes closing the draft control too much brings the stove into a flame-out state then after what is probably occurring is a sudden burst of flames. In that case the excess of pressure will cause most likely a leak of smoke and I would believe it would rush through the opening of the bypass rod of the flue. It doesn't smell a lot or for long but thinking the insert is leaking is worrisome. To avoid this I try to avoid a complete flame-out by opening the draft control by a twitch.
I don't think opening the draft a little more will have a big impact on the burn duration.
Last edited:
Just my grain of salt here: me too clean my chimney : If you can access the opening of the chimney by the roof here is what I suggest. I use a 6 inch plastic brush ( for a 6 inch liner) and I use those yellow fibre rods all from hardware stores (very common).
Preparation: I remove the front shield, the combustor shield and then the combustor. I pull the bypass control to open and take the later out, toss the upper shield towards the front.
I get on the roof,no need for the drill, I pass the brush back and forth 4 times and going as far as it will go.
After this I use a vacuum terminated with a soft plastic tubing in the combustor aperture to remove the creosote, taking care not to knock out the bypass fork as it sits by gravity in the bypass plate. All I have left to do is scoop out the 1-2 1/2 cups of creosote out the fire box: this one is lighter than flour (contains very little combustible products) . I have to say my liner is not a corrugated liner but a smooth one, that helps to lower the amount of creosote it will gather. The insert re-sellers don't provide those anymore (to much hassle to install).
I am heating Regency inserts since 2003 never had a problem. 2003-2015 : I-2400 ; since nov. 2016 , Ci2600
Now for the legal aspect of doing so. If ever you have an incident causing a fire to your house you do not have any bill proving that your chimney has been cleaned regularly and therefore your insurance may decline to pay for the damages.
I still prefer to do it myself, why? Because if the job is well done and if the liner doesn't become defective / perforated or inadequate and I continue to burn dry wood the same way I do, then there is no risk that I would have a serious chimney fire.
I'm preparing to install the electrical outlet this weekend, does the power cord come out of the left or right side of the insert? My installer thinks the right side, but looking at the manual I think it's on the left. Also, where do you guys have your catalyst temperature monitor positioned? The manual talks about on the hearth to the left, or velcroed to the top-left of the surround. Anyone know how long the temperature probe wire is? I've got a way I can route it behind the scenes, but I doubt it will reach up to the mantle. On the back of the monitor are there any holes to mount to a screw (just like a garage door keypad)? The wife and I don't want the monitor directly visible out in front, it would take away from the aesthetics.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
My cord for the blower comes out on the right if your looking at the insert. Not sure how long the probe cord is I changed my thermometer to a WiFi thermometer that saves charts of burn times I got a 10 foot cord.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
griam01
Member
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Hi all does anyone use this stove without the blower? I'd like to do a non-electric installation and I see that the blower/fan is an optional add-on.
Consider having an outlet installed or perhaps using an extension cord. Running a flush insert without a blower will be more for show than go.
Just had the Ci2600 installed. This is my first stove and i have no prior experience with any wood burning stoves. Having a really difficult time getting it going. Glass is already black. Have my own cut and spit wood. Bought a moisture meter and its showing areoun 17% . My biggest question is if I activate the CAT to early is that a big problem? Im having trouble trying to figure out when to activate it. Also If i close the damper even just a little bit the fire burns out and fills with smoke
Are you following the user guide slick sheet?
https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...879-a98ec89e3423/Pro-Series-User-Guide-Insert
https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...879-a98ec89e3423/Pro-Series-User-Guide-Insert
Similar threads
