The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

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Finners75

New Member
Feb 24, 2023
3
MN
When you start the fire is the catalytic combuster lever pushed in or pulled out? If it is pushed in on startup it will smoke u out with the door ajar, I made the mistake of trying to restart the fire with the catalytic combuster(CC) engaged and soon a I put the torch to the kindling the smoke was escaping into the room, I noticed right away and disengaged the CC and the draft kicked in instantly.

The air intake I'm referring to is located in front middle of the stove, the lever on the bottom of the stove control the amount of air that is allowed to enter the system, if the lever is all the way to the left, that will let the maximum amount of air, all the way to the right will let in the least amount of air. When starting your fire, the cc rod should be pulled out and the air intake to the far left. If your fire is dying out when u close the doors, my guess is your are either not getting enough air or your draft is being restricted. If the fire isn't getting enough air then I would try brushing the air intake out to remove any debris that may have gotten stuck in the intake and is restricting the air flow. If it's not the air intake, you may have a blockage in your liner, from a crimp, animal, or creosote build up. The may have forgot to install the cc.

I've read a lot of negative reviews on ci2700 and some people who raved about it. I have had great luck with mine, I fill 3-4 times a day and my heat never kicks on unless it has to make hot water. I get build up on the glass wien I run it low and slow but if I refuel and let it burn with the airintake all the way to the left, the black clears up in 30 min. When the fire is out I use a damp pieces of newspaper dipped in ash
And the stain on the glass comes right off with little to no elbow grease. I follow the directions in the manual and the stove operates flawlessly. I almost never get smoke I'm the house and if I do, it's because I did something wrong. I hope u figure it out call regency directly.
I've been using this unit now for a couple months. A couple things I'll add that has worked for me.

I warm up the flue with a torch to make sure I get a good draft prior to lighting any kindling. Then I start slow. and small. I find that I need to really get a solid coal bed before I close the door for the 1st time of the start up. I have a really good draft but yet it if I close door too soon it snuffs it out. I have to be patient and when I do everything goes better.

I slowly (over the course of 20-30 mins) add larger spits and then she's good to go and I can go larger and close the door.

When I re-load I'll open the bypass, air intake and I crack the fire box door a tad and just hold it closed with my hand. Air rushes in and I let it settle a bit and then I go in for the re-load. A little smoke comes out but not much at all. Mostly just enough to give off some wood smoke smell.

Maybe some of this will help. I have certainly smoked my house out more than once figuring this unit out but it's getting much better.

I hope you are able to figure yours out.

I'm coming from an outdoor boiler set up and am loving this thing!
 

CollnsBrook

New Member
Nov 4, 2021
4
Francestown NH
new to this. I did start a new thread called Regency CI2700 - Is this right? but thought Id share here too.

I own a CI2700/HI500 wood stove insert. been installed for 13 months now, so this is my first full winter burning 24/7.

Please see attached pictures of from the inside of the firebox looking up into the Flue Collar Assembly/up into the flue.

When I took off the Bottom shield (number 19), I noticed the two ovals and thought is that supposed to be like that?

I looking in the installation instructions and the ovals look to be upper shield. Am I correct? And is that piece supped to be covering the Flue opening?

As you can see in the picture Bypass Open again, what I believe to be is the upper shield, shifted and it causes the bypass plate to not fully open and not fully shut without some manual adjustments to the upper shield. Note: I did get it to stay in place. I tested it by opening and closing the bypass a number of times and it did not move again, but it is in that same position covering the flue. Is it supposed to be in that position?

Would like to know ASAP as a winter storm is approaching and need to know if I should not operate my stove.
Great pictures. Mine looks just like that. The thing with the ovals might be the bypass plate. I have the same questions.
 

CollnsBrook

New Member
Nov 4, 2021
4
Francestown NH
new to this. I did start a new thread called Regency CI2700 - Is this right? but thought Id share here too.

I own a CI2700/HI500 wood stove insert. been installed for 13 months now, so this is my first full winter burning 24/7.

Please see attached pictures of from the inside of the firebox looking up into the Flue Collar Assembly/up into the flue.

When I took off the Bottom shield (number 19), I noticed the two ovals and thought is that supposed to be like that?

I looking in the installation instructions and the ovals look to be upper shield. Am I correct? And is that piece supped to be covering the Flue opening?

As you can see in the picture Bypass Open again, what I believe to be is the upper shield, shifted and it causes the bypass plate to not fully open and not fully shut without some manual adjustments to the upper shield. Note: I did get it to stay in place. I tested it by opening and closing the bypass a number of times and it did not move again, but it is in that same position covering the flue. Is it supposed to be in that position?

Would like to know ASAP as a winter storm is approaching and need to know if I should not operate my stove.
Looks just like mine. I think the thing with the ovals is the bypass plate. Mine flops around two and obstructs the flue when the bypass is open.
 

fussen

New Member
Mar 13, 2023
14
Western Canada
Don’t think I can edit my last post. But also just curious where the stove pulls air in. I have a wind detector that I use for hunting and just trying to see if I have a visible draft being pulled into the stove.
I just had my stove installed two days ago and I’m having issues with smoke coming into the house. I pre heat the stove with a torch for about 10 mins, the probe temp well over 100*F. Then get my kindling/paper going, keeping the door cracked until it takes off for 5-10mins. I can get the temp over 500* off the kindling/small stuff and when I go to load more in it billows out from the top. It seems to get better once the flames die down a bit. Other than that it seems to work great, easily get 1000*F and maintain once I’ve got the big stuff in. I put (5) 4-5 in split pieces in and it’s lasted almost 3 hours before getting below 600*.

Windows cracked in the basement, 6” piping aprox 20’ piping. Well seasoned wood, minimal smoke on the glass just the corners, paper test good. I was told by my installer I need to install a 4” intake duct into the room. Thanks for any input.
Hi! I'm curious about 'minimal smoke on the glass just the corners' as I'm considering this stove and it's a big consideration for us. Are you doing long (low) burns overnight & finding the same? Like you, we'll have well-seasoned, dry wood, so I'm hoping that might mean that the air wash might be effective.

We currently have a gorgeous (but cold & inefficient) open fireplace & love the flame view, so the last thing I want to do is install what will look like a black hole in our masonry!

Thanks in advance.
 

blackgti

New Member
Oct 19, 2021
7
WNY
Is the orientation of the upper shield in the manual for the CI2700 backwards? It seems the fork for the bypass rod will interfere with it in this diagram I’m replacing the bypass gasket . I’d rather not take the stove apart twice.

B19FB1A2-D461-4D02-96DC-6C398BC7AEF7.jpeg
 

garth_2022

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
23
new york
Hi! I'm curious about 'minimal smoke on the glass just the corners' as I'm considering this stove and it's a big consideration for us. Are you doing long (low) burns overnight & finding the same? Like you, we'll have well-seasoned, dry wood, so I'm hoping that might mean that the air wash might be effective.

I do slow burns, lasts me 8 -10 hours using kiln-dried wood at moisture level of 12-16 and I still get bottom left and right issues on glass. I don't care, I scrape it off during the next load.