The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[tadmaz]

~7 year old CI2600/HI400. Cat has been lasting only 2 seasons. 24/7 Wisconsin. Overall does ok.

I unthreaded the bypass rod to take the top off and get behind the stove, and then it wouldn't thread back in. I could see a thread on the rod was mashed even though it unthreaded fine. After running through a die, I can get half a thread to catch and at least operate the bypass. What the heck. Anyone see this? When it's warmer (warmer than -19F), I plan to let the stove get cold, remove the combustor, and see if I can remove the fork to run a tap on it. Possibly considering going from the 3/8-16 to M10-1.5 w/ threaded rod.

Has anyone removed/inspected their fork? Counter-clockwise to remove? Thanks in advance.

https://woodstoves.net/documents/HI400_Manual2.pdf

Page 10

 

[Lucky48]

I just tried firing up mine this evening after removing the catalyst and blowing it out, and the upper shield looks like it somehow disconnected or something? WHen I engage the catalyst it closes like it should, but when I pull the handle back out the upper shield stays covering the rear exhaust. That is what was causing the smoke, the blockage. Is that easy enough to repair myself? I've never taken tis thing out of the chimney, not sure where to start.

I tried searching but nothing came up like what I am seeing.

 

[tadmaz]

I just tried firing up mine this evening after removing the catalyst and blowing it out, and the upper shield looks like it somehow disconnected or something? WHen I engage the catalyst it closes like it should, but when I pull the handle back out the upper shield stays covering the rear exhaust. That is what was causing the smoke, the blockage. Is that easy enough to repair myself? I've never taken tis thing out of the chimney, not sure where to start.

I tried searching but nothing came up like what I am seeing.

I just had the bypass plate and fork out. The upper shield doesn't attach to the bypass plate at all. I don't see how the upper shield would ever move forward when the bypass is opened. If it's not terribly cold outside (45F+) , and on a totally cold stove, take your propane torch and send some flame up the open bypass for 30 seconds, to help start the draft.

I found way way earlier in this thread (2021) that one guy confirmed the upper shield does not move forward when opening the bypass, and the comment in this youtube video also confirms this.

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P.S. I was able to tap the fork and die the rod, applied some anti-sieze, and I'm back in business with a fully threaded rod into the fork.