Things I've Learned, 9 Months In (Beginner Stuff)

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southernmaine

Member
Oct 19, 2021
7
York County, ME USA
Hi all - the burning season is quickly approaching. Here in York County, Maine (south coast, near NH) we are seeing some pretty warm days still (almost 80 today) but the cool nights have made some early appearances and are forecasted from here on out. We are probably a month away from needing some morning heat from our mini-split or stove to kick off the season.

I'm still very much a newbie having only owned a stove for around nine months. We took delivery of our Morso 7110 in late January 2022 so we had an abbreviated heating season, and looking forward to putting that small stove through its paces for a full winter.

With the rising price of heating oil in New England (and utilities/commodities generally everywhere) I'm sure we will see some new folks enjoying new wood stoves. I thought I'd share a few things I learned in the past year of research and ownership, perhaps it could save another stove owner some time, money or even muscle aches.

Don't Skimp On the Install
I try to be frugal as much as the next person, but I went with a highly reputable and educated local stove company that came out for measurements and such before the install. You don't want any surprises, especially with the costs of the stove and parts (going up) and the supply-chain related delays (still happening). If you are hiring out for the install (which I can't recommend enough, if you're a newbie) don't go with your coworkers-uncles-neighbor-who-burns-six-cords who says he could do it for a six-pack. Call and shop around, it will be worth the effort. Different stove shops carry different brands, so this is one industry where using the manufacturers "Find a Dealer" link is still a valuable use of time if you find a particular stove that you like.

Know The New Stoves
That neighbor, the six-cords-a-winter guy, who has the steady stream of smoke out his chimney all winter long? He/she may be using an older wood stove which was manufactured prior to newer efficiency/emissions guidelines. Lots of well-meaning advice and tips aren't relevant with newer efficient EPA stoves. Take the time to research and truly understand what new modern wood stoves require to operate efficiently: good dry wood (not advertised as seasoned, which is meaningless), proper usage of catalytic converters (if applicable), good cleaning practices, etc. These things are important for the stove, the health of your chimney/venting, and your peace of mind.

There's A Lot to Firewood
As mentioned above, a wood stove requires a commitment to providing good dry firewood. This can be as easy as calling a local firewood company, perhaps even paying for full service like stacking. But you'll find lots of new stove owners quickly diving into the world of firewood – maybe we blame it on frugality, or maybe childhood memories of going out in the cold and dark to fetch more wood, or Yankee work ethic, or probably all of the above!

It takes longer than I had thought to properly dry firewood in a standard outside backyard rack. Good hardwoods can take over a year, and oak can even take closer to two years. There are some outliers, like ash, which I hear can dry in 6 months. But at least for us folks in New England, you probably can't "split in Spring, burn in the Fall" and feel confident in having a good moisture content. You might find folks that adhere to that adage, but I bet that wood isn't nearly as close to "dry" as they'd like (and their old "smoke dragon" wood stoves are used to it and don't care).

I won't dive into the world of firewood dealers, simply because everyone has a horror story to share and there's no shortage of negative discussions. For the sake of the newbie stove owner, just take these nuggets of info:
  • The price has risen dramatically in the past couple winters.
  • "Seasoned" is not a real term, doesn't mean anything.
  • New stoves recommend ~20% moisture content thereabouts, that's VERY HARD to find
  • Most dealers are trying to move inventory faster, you'll sadly be fed lies on the phone. Wood cut last week being sold as "already seasoned", etc.
  • You can (and should) buy a $30 moisture meter and ask to sample pieces in the truck before $600 of firewood gets dropped in your driveway
  • Be picky (if you can) with the dealers
I quickly jumped into the world of processing my own firewood at home, getting mixed hardwood log-length delivered from a local tree company. I'm fortunate to have the space and physical abilities to DIY here, with a new chainsaw and axe this year. While I'm saving up for a log splitter of my own, I'm able to borrow a neighbor's splitter to help me process my 2 ½ cords.

If you're diving in to firewood processing at home and new to the game, here's some thoughts:
  • It's way messier than originally anticipated. Chainsaws make a mess and splitting will leave all kinds of small bits and splinters around. Don't try to segment a small pocket of your driveway and think you can easily contain the debris (at least, I couldn't).
  • Take the time to research a chainsaw purchase and understand maintenance and safety. There's too much in this topic to expand here but no shortage of good resources online. Don't skimp on safety gear. I wear the "full uniform" every time. Learn to sharpen your chain, a $15 file kit is all you need to get started.
  • I never made the connection between the delivery time of the logs and the summer weather until a few months ago. Bucking and splitting on a humid 87 degree day is brutal and not worth it (and not safe). Lesson learned, get an early Spring delivery and don't delay attacking it, you'll regret waiting.
  • It's incredibly rewarding, for reasons I can't quite explain. It just is!
Storage is a whole 'nother ball game, there's plenty of threads here that discuss stacks, racks, and sheds. You could probably write a small book on the subject - and there'd be some weirdos here, like myself, that would read it cover-to-cover :)

Final Thoughts
In the past year or so of reading this forum and researching all the topics, I've learned that everyone's experience and usage and even appreciation of wood heat varies drastically. There are folks that hardly give the whole process much thought (they wouldn't be on this site!) and there are folks like myself on the other end of the spectrum, reading about an internet stranger's stories about wood splitting while I have my morning coffee. We all have different stoves, different houses with different layouts, different wood available, different lifestyles…you'll find your "groove" once you get going and learn what methods fit best for you.

Thanks for reading my notes, I hope this was informative to any newbies out there. There's a lot to learn if you want to get the most out of your wood stove for home heating, and despite the whole "fire" thing existing since the dawn of time, there's always something new to learn!

Much appreciation to the mods of this site, and all the folks that post and read, it's really a great place to hang out and I learn something just about every day.

Happy Fall!

PS - Pine is fine. Can we finally put the pine/creosote myths to rest now? That's something else us newbies could carry with us and pass down to our kids!
 
Great write-up. Still perfecting my groove after 10 years, lol.
 
Nice post! Yes Pine is fine along with other softwoods. I used to pass on those types of firewoods until I purchased my 23 acres of mostly Aspen. Now that’s all I burn along with a little Jack Pine. I have found these two woods will be under 20% in as little as 5-6 months. If your trying to get ahead on your supply don’t pass on the softwoods they make heat too.
 
Good overview indeed.

re: pine
Moreover, some folks prefer pine over oak when it's really cold; it does not create much if any coals like oak does, so the firebox blasts out heat, and then is ready (empty enough) for reloading.
 
Excellent post, @southernmaine, the mod's might even want to make this one a "sticky".

To make it even better, I'd make one small change, and put even more emphasis on one of your other points:

change: Count your wood drying time in "summers", not "years". Also, many here would wager oak takes 3 summers, somewhat dependent on conditions. Similarly, ash might dry in one summer, but not the 6 months starting in September.

emphasize: Saw sharpening. I would say that, possibly only falling second to wet wood, dull saw chain has to be at the top of the list of frustration or shortcomings of those new to heating with wood. People are almost always amazed and disbelieving of the simple fact that saw chain dulls very quickly, to the tune of deserving a sharpening with each (or every second) re-fueling of the saw. So, while you did good to hit on this point, I'd hit it harder and earlier, to make sure it's driven home.
 
When I started, I looked at a stove at tractor supply and was curious. Then I dug in a little online and was interested. Then I found these forums and was dedicated. Then I went about the process of trying to obtain a stove, and was frustrated with dealers, installers, quotes, parts listings, clearances, PRICES, and stove locations. Then I BOUGHT a stove, installed the stove myself, and looking back think to myself - it has to be easier than that. I'll bet 90% of people walk into a dealer, talk for 15 minutes then say...ok I'll take that one when can you stop by to install? The installer comes out to get a parts listing, then returns with parts and does the install one day. Home owner breezes through the manual, fires up their stove and are none the wiser about people like us.
 
I'd add/change to cut in winter. Not only more comfortable temps but tick exposure is a big deal that does not get talked about very much. Cutting at around 32F or below will negate exposure to lyme ticks, and i think under 40F drastically reduces exposure risk. You can also spray clothes with permethrin. Lyme is not what you want to get.
I would agree with this, I personally am leaning towards leaving the bucking/splitting to winter. You won't be cold for long once you get going, especially if you're layered up with some PPE. And, aside from sitting by the stove, I don't usually have as much going on around the house mid-Winter. Can be tricky to find enough daylight depending on where you live.

I'll be sure to watch for stable footing on snow, or the packed snow turning slick in the work area! Nothing some generous sand couldn't fix though.
 
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having just split 2.5 cords of ash with an axe last fall/winter i can confirm that in NH that wood is currently sitting at ~18-24% moisture depending on the split size (triangular pieces 2-7" thick). top covered in the backyard. Also, spot on that splitting in the summer sucks compared to winter; colder temps help with fewer swings.

On the dealer/installer point I would echo your sentiments. However, I would stress that you should self educate yourself on what meets code and what your particular stove requires for clearances and draft. I've had (3) different companies come out since I first started the stove buying/installation process and only (1) of them has provided clear and correct feedback. "If you want something done right the first time; do it yourself". Assuming you have the ability to. If not then I'd be asking for pictures of the installation to ensure everything is setup as intended.
 
Good write-up there, neighbor...
I 'll echo your sentiments about leaving the cutting for the cooler weather; no bugs and the cold encourages one to actually wear the PPE( chaps,leather gloves, safety toe boots).
Kinda cool and rainy tonight so we've got a little smudge going in the Palladian.
 
When I started, I looked at a stove at tractor supply and was curious. Then I dug in a little online and was interested. Then I found these forums and was dedicated. Then I went about the process of trying to obtain a stove, and was frustrated with dealers, installers, quotes, parts listings, clearances, PRICES, and stove locations. Then I BOUGHT a stove, installed the stove myself, and looking back think to myself - it has to be easier than that. I'll bet 90% of people walk into a dealer, talk for 15 minutes then say...ok I'll take that one when can you stop by to install? The installer comes out to get a parts listing, then returns with parts and does the install one day. Home owner breezes through the manual, fires up their stove and are none the wiser about people like us.
Are you saying it is best to pay an expert to install it? I agree it is probably money well spent IF one has access to qualified people.

In my case it is a freaking clown show in my remote geographic area with respect to the level of workmanship and contractors available. Sure, there must be some good people, but it is certainly not as easy as calling someone up, getting a price, paying it, and actually having them come and do reasonable work. For that reason, I am grateful that the information on this forum has empowered me to learn and to do some of my own installs.

That being said, there were so many headaches along the way. If you have access to good people, it makes sense to utilize them. Even in that case, the knowledge gained here will help you to ensure that things are done right.
 
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Are you saying it is best to pay an expert to install it? I agree it is probably money well spent IF one has access to qualified people.
I live in the wealthier Philly 'burbs, not exactly remote. But even here, I rarely find or use a contractor after which I do not need to modify, redo, or flat-out undo some of their work. When I do find one, I hang onto them like a life line, but they are as rare as hens' teeth.

I used to do 100% of the restoration, building, masonry, plumbing, electrical, roofing, painting, landscaping, etc. As I've managed to find one good person in three of those trades (masonry, painting, shrubbery), I've been able to off-load those chores and focus on the others. But a one-time thing like a stove install is like weddings and funerals, by the time you realize you're screwed, it's often too late to do much about it.
 
Op's advice on safety equipment is good advice. While splitting with a maul i had a split kick back and hit me in the shin. Bump took almost a year to heal. The great thing is that there's so many experts on here willing to give out great advice for free. This is a great source for info.
 
Id say the real game changer for me was permanent wood storage.. I found that I like to keep 14 cords CSS.. and an area to.store at least 6 cords log lenth. I found it to be efficient to stack in a shed and not have to move it or do the tarp thing
 
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Id say the real game changer for me was permanent wood storage.. I found that I like to keep 14 cords CSS.. and an area to.store at least 6 cords log lenth. I found it to be efficient to stack in a shed and not have to move it or do the tarp thing
Ditto. My volumes are bigger, but the ratio is roughly the same. Having a place ready to stack the next cord in immediately after consuming what had been there, and not having to create or build it fresh each time, has really made the whole thing far less stressful.

So is having a reasonable-enough FIFO inventory policy. Not by individual logs, but at least by yearly groupings.