Thinking Wood Gun...any advice or experience?

[avc8130]

I have never used this telescoping pipe. I went as far as I could and then used the adapter to go from insulated double wall to single wall and ended up with an adjustable 90 degree elbo attached to the adapter and right to the top of the ash cyclone. It was a bit of a pain in the a.., but it worked. I don't know if they have telescoping pipe in the brand that I have or not. I will have to look into that. So the telescoping just goes straight in and out. Right? There is no flexing it side to side or curving. Right?

Yeah, straight in/out is my understanding.

This stuff might work:

(broken link removed)

ac

 

[Gasifier]

I see this. I do not see how it is adjustable. ? Anyone ever use on of these from metalbest?


(broken link removed)

 

[mikefrommaine]

If you have twelve inches of clearance I'd just shield the joists with sheetmetal and1" spacers and use all single wall. It'll be cheaper and easier.

 

[avc8130]

If you have twelve inches of clearance I'd just shield the joists with sheetmetal and1" spacers and use all single wall. It'll be cheaper and easier.

I thought about just using a stove pipe shield:

http://woodheatstoves.com/stove-pipe-shield-35-p-9387.html

ac

 

[Gasifier]

What is the chimney you are going into made up of avc? I am working on pic of that pipe I was telling you about. Should be up soon.

 

[avc8130]

What is the chimney you are going into made up of avc? I am working on pic of that pipe I was telling you about. Should be up soon.

7" round masonry thimble from the current oil burner. That feeds into an 8x8 terracotta chimney. Overall draft height ~20'.



ac

 

[Gasifier]

Link Removed

Yes, PLEASE snap some pics. Trust me, I'd rather do it right, once!


What I can't find is a supplier for the pipe. From what I hear, you can't cut length of 2-wall like you can single. With that, how do you work with it for a stove connection? I need to be able to choose my own height and my own run to the thimble. No doubt that some angles will roll the ash back down better and keep the draft stronger.

ac

Old set up above. Well I screwed up the pic of the new set up. But at least you can see the new pipe. Just gives you an idea of how I did it. Now, obviously that was where the Wood Gun was already piped up and completely installed, so I had to fit the pipe to what I had. Working good so far. I would like to get all the joints sealed completely. Like welded together. I do not know if they can weld that thin wall pipe with a mig or tig welder or not. Need to find out for the future. If you can, go with as few joints as possible. The fan on the gun creates pressure and will leak wherever it can. Good luck ac. And if you have any questions, ask. Lots of good guys on here.

 

[711mhw]

I used a double wall stove pipe that telescopes off the cyclone seperator. It is a pita to seal up against the pos. pressure draft created by that humongus fan & motor. This pipe was sourced off the internet & it has a thin SS inner pipe with a regular black pipe outer layer. I would not hesitate at all using a good heavy (single) wall black stove pipe to get to your masonry chimney, and as mikefrommaine mentioned, just do some heat shielding as needed. Tile backer also makes a good heat shield. Just pay attn. to sealing up all your joints with HT silicone during assembly. At your 7" thimble, I'd just "mud it in" to the 6".
If you think about it, a regular wood stove is much harder, or hotter on a stove pipe than a modern "gasser" will be, maybe other than a little positive pressure, the operating temps. are prolly much lower than a stove and definetly not subjecting it to all that creosote.

 

[avc8130]

I used a double wall stove pipe that telescopes off the cyclone seperator. It is a pita to seal up against the pos. pressure draft created by that humongus fan & motor. This pipe was sourced off the internet & it has a thin SS inner pipe with a regular black pipe outer layer. I would not hesitate at all using a good heavy (single) wall black stove pipe to get to your masonry chimney, and as mikefrommaine mentioned, just do some heat shielding as needed. Tile backer also makes a good heat shield. Just pay attn. to sealing up all your joints with HT silicone during assembly. At your 7" thimble, I'd just "mud it in" to the 6".
If you think about it, a regular wood stove is much harder, or hotter on a stove pipe than a modern "gasser" will be, maybe other than a little positive pressure, the operating temps. are prolly much lower than a stove and definetly not subjecting it to all that creosote.

I've been strongly considering just piping it in with black stove pipe. It is SO cheap that it might just be easiest to get it done for now.

A 6=>7 adapter is cheap enough (broken link removed) to not worry about mudding it in.

No concerns with drop in draft from the single wall? What about using 2 45s to make the vertical to horizontal connection to keep "slope" so the ash flows down to the cyclone?

ac

 

[mikefrommaine]

Cut some pieces of 1/2" copper to one inch, screw a piece of sheetmetal to the joists through the copper spacers above the stove pipe. And you have magically reduced the required clearance of single wall stove pipe to 9"

Cheap simple effective and code approved.

 

[Gasifier]

I've been strongly considering just piping it in with black stove pipe. It is SO cheap that it might just be easiest to get it done for now.

A 6=>7 adapter is cheap enough (broken link removed) to not worry about mudding it in.

No concerns with drop in draft from the single wall? What about using 2 45s to make the vertical to horizontal connection to keep "slope" so the ash flows down to the cyclone?

ac

All I can tell you is I first went with what you see in the first picture. Galvanized single wall. That was a mistake. I seam to like to learn the hard way sometimes. All the high temp silicone at the joints eventually dried up and cracked and was a pain in the ass to try to keep it sealed. I had creosote building up becuase of my situation with my 27 foot chimney and needed higher stack temp all the way up. I then ended up switching to regular black single wall pipe because the galvanized did not hold up. Should have switched then to a sloping angle then, but didn't. Then went through almost the same problems. Clean, reseal. Clean, reseal. You are right, that pipe is much cheaper. Go with the black if you do either of them. But eventually I think you will end up going with the insulated s.s. I spent the extra money after and am glad I have it the way I do now. Have not had to clean it. Checked it, but nothing. Everything slides down into the ash cyclone.

Of course, your situation is different than mine. But I would go with a sloping pipe and try to have it so you can take it apart easily for clean out. Make sure you have working smoke detectors of both technologies for double safety.

 

[avc8130]

All I can tell you is I first went with what you see in the first picture. Galvanized single wall. That was a mistake. I seam to like to learn the hard way sometimes. All the high temp silicone at the joints eventually dried up and cracked and was a pain in the ass to try to keep it sealed. I had creosote building up becuase of my situation with my 27 foot chimney and needed higher stack temp all the way up. I then ended up switching to regular black single wall pipe because the galvanized did not hold up. Should have switched then to a sloping angle then, but didn't. Then went through almost the same problems. Clean, reseal. Clean, reseal. You are right, that pipe is much cheaper. Go with the black if you do either of them. But eventually I think you will end up going with the insulated s.s. I spent the extra money after and am glad I have it the way I do not. Have not had to clean it. Checked it, but nothing. Everything slides down into the ash cyclone.

Of course, your situation is different than mine. But I would go with a sloping pipe and try to have it so you can take it apart easily for clean out. Make sure you have working smoke detectors of both technologies for double safety.

Trust me, I don't want to do it twice, that is why I am trying to research so much.

How does 6" double-wall interface with 7" masonry chimney?

ac

 

[maple1]

Cut some pieces of 1/2" copper to one inch, screw a piece of sheetmetal to the joists through the copper spacers above the stove pipe. And you have magically reduced the required clearance of single wall stove pipe to 9"

Cheap simple effective and code approved.

That's what the installers did on my original install 17 years ago.

BTW, what is the code clearance for single wall pipe without using a heat shield?

 

[avc8130]

That's what the installers did on my original install 17 years ago.

BTW, what is the code clearance for single wall pipe without using a heat shield?

18"

 

[Gasifier]

Trust me, I don't want to do it twice, that is why I am trying to research so much.

How does 6" double-wall interface with 7" masonry chimney?

ac

I have never done it that way ac, so I can not tell you. But I am sure there is a way. Just talk to your supplier for the double wall about an adaptor. I am sure they have something. The less sealing you have to do with caulk the better. The higher you stack temps are the cleaner you chimney will be. The insulated pipe is safer from a clearance standpoint, a cleaner chimney(less chance of chimney fire), and less chance of a leak of smoke of any kind. I am much more relaxed now than I was with the old pipe. This is from my experience anyway. Good luck.

 

[avc8130]

I have never done it that way ac, so I can not tell you. But I am sure there is a way. Just talk to your supplier for the double wall about an adaptor. I am sure they have something. The less sealing you have to do with caulk the better. The higher you stack temps are the cleaner you chimney will be. The insulated pipe is safer from a clearance standpoint, a cleaner chimney(less chance of chimney fire), and a leak of smoke of any kind. I am much more relaxed now than I was with the old pipe. This is from my experience anyway. Good luck.

I think I am going to take some measurements and head to the local hearth supply place and start talking. I am the type of guy that can figure this stuff out, if I can go to the store and touch the parts and work them together. Searching the internet is just confusing me.

ac

 

[maple1]

Hmmm, I should go measure something. I'm not sure I've got quite that much on a new piece I put in, it'll be close to that though - I might have to make another shield.

I do have a store bought stove pipe shield kicking around though that screws onto the pipe - does that have the same affect on clearances as the copper/sheet metal does?

 

[Gasifier]

That's what the installers did on my original install 17 years ago.

BTW, what is the code clearance for single wall pipe without using a heat shield?

Was that with your benjamin maple? Do you think a better sealed pipe is a good idea with a pressurized exhaust like the wood gun has? That fan has a good amount of pressure. You would think everything would go straight up the chimney, but it does not. From what I have experienced, any slight pinhole or slot or gap and you end up with an exhaust leak into your boiler room. Not something I could accept being that is in my basement.

 

[avc8130]

Hmmm, I should go measure something. I'm not sure I've got quite that much on a new piece I put in, it'll be close to that though - I might have to make another shield.

I do have a store bought stove pipe shield kicking around though that screws onto the pipe - does that have the same affect on clearances as the copper/sheet metal does?

I believe those heat shields bring clearance down to 6". I am not sure about sheetmetal on the ceiling.

http://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-54120.html

 

[711mhw]

I've been strongly considering just piping it in with black stove pipe. It is SO cheap that it might just be easiest to get it done for now.

A 6=>7 adapter is cheap enough (broken link removed) to not worry about mudding it in.

No concerns with drop in draft from the single wall? What about using 2 45s to make the vertical to horizontal connection to keep "slope" so the ash flows down to the cyclone?

ac

If I remember, they (AHS) suggests a certain height out of the cyclone before going horizontal. In my situation, I was able to go close to 6' vertical out of the cyc. before I 45 into a class A that goes thru the framed wall. My horiz run is only about 5' and only gets cleaned once a year, and this is prolly not needed. In other words, I think that with the taller vertical "run" out of the cyc. the "heavies" drop back down and go round & round in it until it is light enough to blow out or fall back into the "dustpan". The ash left in the pipe is very fine soot, not really any ash at all.
For the first year of operation. I only stubbed the class A through the wall about 6". PERIOD! no vertical chimney, not even a rain cap, almost like a "wall cap" on a bath vent or range hood vent just without any cover, just a 6" SS class A pipe sticking thru the wall. This was cool with AHS, as I sought their approval first, but with the right wind conditions, the smoke would blow in our window that we like to crack for fresh air in the winter. Now I tee into a SS vertical to above the roof line, keeping the bottom of the tee open for constant "self cleaning" of the horizontal run.
So what I'm trying to say is get as much vertical out of the cyc. as you can, then tee (for cleaning) into your horiz. run to the chimney. If you do go with the heavy black pipe, it's cheap enough to tinker with if you have different results. Does the chim have a clean out door in the right spot? Your WG chimney cleaning is not anything near what you may have experienced cleaning a conventional wood stove! (Way, way less) That goofy cyclone thing really does it's job, just remember to check it every few days until you learn it's cleaning "cycle" for your wood and use. Maybe Mike will comment on the tall vertical with similar results? I'm guessing that he does not have any horizontal at all. Have fun, It's starting to get chilly!

 

[maple1]

Was that with your benjamin maple? Do you think a better sealed pipe is a good idea with a pressurized exhaust like the wood gun has? That fan has a good amount of pressure. You would think everything would go straight up the chimney, but it does not. From what I have experienced, any slight pinhole or slot or gap and you end up with an exhaust leak into your boiler room. Not something I could accept being that is in my basement.

Yes it was. And yes a better sealed pipe is likely a good idea with a pressurized exhaust - I would think. I ran into a friend at the supplier a couple of weeks ago, who has a Wood Gun. I checked it out just after he got it maybe 4 years ago but haven't been back. I should pay a visit. I think he has made some mods - he was telling me about one that I wasn't fully understanding. It had to do with stopping moisture/condensation in the ash (in the ash pan?), and it involved a bucket under open pipe somewhere.

EDIT: Or maybe something like the open T that 711 just posted about while I was typing this.

 

[avc8130]

If I remember, they (AHS) suggests a certain height out of the cyclone before going horizontal. In my situation, I was able to go close to 6' vertical out of the cyc. before I 45 into a class A that goes thru the framed wall. My horiz run is only about 5' and only gets cleaned once a year, and this is prolly not needed. In other words, I think that with the taller vertical "run" out of the cyc. the "heavies" drop back down and go round & round in it until it is light enough to blow out or fall back into the "dustpan". The ash left in the pipe is very fine soot, not really any ash at all.
So what I'm trying to say is get as much vertical out of the cyc. as you can, then tee (for cleaning) into your horiz. run to the chimney. If you do go with the heavy black pipe, it's cheap enough to tinker with if you have different results. Does the chim have a clean out door in the right spot? Your WG chimney cleaning is not anything near what you may have experienced cleaning a conventional wood stove! (Way, way less) That goofy cyclone thing really does it's job, just remember to check it every few days until you learn it's cleaning "cycle" for your wood and use. Maybe Mike will comment on the tall vertical with similar results? I'm guessing that he does not have any horizontal at all. Have fun, It's starting to get chilly!

I'm not sure a clean out tee would be useful in my case. My chimney hookup will be perpendicular to the unit itself. The clean out would essentially be right into the unit itself. My chimney does have a clean out door at the bottom of the flue.

Chilly? It was 69F here today!

ac

 

[avc8130]

I took some measurements. My masonry thimble is ~48" above the height of my cyclone. I am able to position the Wood Gun to adjust the horizontal run, but ~24" is the range I want to be in.

Since the piping is 6", I think the elbow will be 6x6, correct? In other words, I need 42" of height and could use an 18" horizontal run?

ac

 

[avc8130]

I have never done it that way ac, so I can not tell you. But I am sure there is a way. Just talk to your supplier for the double wall about an adaptor. I am sure they have something. The less sealing you have to do with caulk the better. The higher you stack temps are the cleaner you chimney will be. The insulated pipe is safer from a clearance standpoint, a cleaner chimney(less chance of chimney fire), and less chance of a leak of smoke of any kind. I am much more relaxed now than I was with the old pipe. This is from my experience anyway. Good luck.

Do you happen to know the brand pipe you used?

ac

 

[Gasifier]

Do you happen to know the brand pipe you used?

ac

Yes. Metelbest. (I believe it use to be called Metelbestos) It is made by Selkirk. The Selkirk website does not tell you a lot. But they have been making it a long time. Several of the local wood stove companies around here use this type of pipe. Here is a link to it.

(broken link removed) Once you get there just click on the Class A chimney pipe and size that you want.

I like it. Twist the sections together at the joints and you are done. No more high temp. caulk needed. Well insulated. Piece of mind for safety.