Thoughts on this build out?

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What is the r-value of your floor? This is an extremely important safety factor not just because of embers. Lower end stoves that are not shielded well can put out lots of radiant heat into that floor. This can pose a very serious safety risk.
I plan on buying a pad to put in front of the stove just for sparks and embers besides that under the stove does not get hot at all.
 
I plan on buying a pad to put in front of the stove just for sparks and embers besides that under the stove does not get hot at all.
Again what testing have you done to confirm this? The stove was tested and a set r value is required for a safe installation. I am sorry but you are making many unfounded assumptions about what is safe. That is extremely dangerous
 
Again what testing have you done to confirm this? The stove was tested and a set r value is required for a safe installation. I am sorry but you are making many unfounded assumptions about what is safe. That is extremely dangerous
Testing... I have been using this stove for two years and from personal use having the fire roaring the floor under it has always been cool or luck warm to the touch. Like I said I am going to put a pad in front of the stove
 
If this is the place where you and your family lives, be aware insurance may not pay out if your home burns down if you stove is not installed according to the instructions in the manual.

Are you willing to take that risk?
 
Testing... I have been using this stove for two years and from personal use having the fire roaring the floor under it has always been cool or luck warm to the touch. Like I said I am going to put a pad in front of the stove
And this was previously on a concrete slab which could absorb large amounts of heat without harm correct? That is no longer the case. Again you are making safety assumptions that directly contradict the tested and listed specifications. Again what you are doing is a very big safety risk, a clear code violation, and without question grounds for a denied insurance claim
 
And this was previously on a concrete slab which could absorb large amounts of heat without harm correct? That is no longer the case. Again you are making safety assumptions that directly contradict the tested and listed specifications. Again what you are doing is a very big safety risk, a clear code violation, and without question grounds for a denied insurance claim
Yes was on a concrete slab that was always cool to a touch even after hours of high firing temperatures. I am beyond what the manual says with added protection and put a pad down. Yet all I get is negative.....
 
Unless the hearth pad has an insulation value of 2.0 or higher, it is well below spec. A concrete floor will dissipate heat quickly, whereas an under-spec hearth pad will transfer the heat to the combustibles underneath. That is the concern. It's not unwarranted. The higher insulation provides a thermal break.
 
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To clarify, there are different requirements. One is the size (e.g. in front of the stove - and you may have that correct, regarding its size), but the other is the properties that the area needs to have. In this case thermally insulating properties. That appears to not be correct here.

The concrete feeling cold can be compared to putting a plastic cup and a metal cup in the fridge. The metal cup will feel colder because it conducts the heat from under your hand away quickly. The plastic cup doesn't, and thus extracts less heat from your hand and therefore feels warmer.

A floor that does not conduct the hhrat away (spreads it around) as efficient as the concrete, may be getting much hotter. Which, if combustibles are in the floor, can (over time! E.g. multiple years of exposure to higher temps than designed for) result in problems.

I'm only trying to explain the reasons for the criticism here as I have the impression those are not understood. Apologies if you did understand them. I'm not trying to be demeaning.
 
I think most comments have been supportive, if cautionary. The main goal is to support a safe installation, not only for this buildout but also for others that may read this thread in the future.
 
For all the haters on this site that kept saying my set up was unsafe. Had the fire going for the last six hours nice and hot and these were the max temperature reading I got. One was the interior wall and the other was the exterior wall.

IMG_20221007_222109.jpg IMG_20221007_222232.jpg IMG_20221007_222255.jpg
 
Can't you say that about everyone/stove?
Yes which is why stoves are tested to those worst case scenario situations. That is why they require the clearances they do and the hearth requirements they do
 
Can't you say that about every one that uses a wood burning stove? I know how to use my stove and how to burn, but apparently you have something against me. I clean my pipes 2 to 3 times a year to make sure they are nice and clean.

Yes which is why stoves are tested to those worst case scenario situations. That is why they require the clearances they do and the hearth requirements they do
As I built the required clearances and more. Showed the highest heat temperatures on the walls, which is nothing warm to a touch on tile and the back of the wall and studs pretty much cool to a touch. Yet you come at me and saying over firing and chimney fire which is not happening at all.... Everything on this post has been negative towards me. Went above the requirements, showed the walls aren't getting hot at all, I over clean my pipes but yet still get chit....
 
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The recommended clearances are not given to make life hard, or exercise some sort of warped control over you...they are the clearances that in testing, were found to be required to keep the floor/walls/ceiling of the building lower than a temp where pyrolysis (or even just flat out ignition) begins to happen when SHTF...they are not so much for your everyday normal operation...but nobody knows when a normal everyday fire in your stove is going to turn into one that is not.
Its kinda like having a fire extinguisher....total waste of money...until you need it.
 
The recommended clearances are not given to make life hard, or exercise some sort of warped control over you...they are the clearances that in testing, were found to be required to keep the floor/walls/ceiling of the building lower than a temp where pyrolysis (or even just flat out ignition) begins to happen when SHTF...they are not so much for your everyday normal operation...but nobody knows when a normal everyday fire in your stove is going to turn into one that is not.
Its kinda like having a fire extinguisher....total waste of money...until you need it.
So building a wood burning stove over the recommended clearances, having long hot burn and showing proof/facts that everything is still safe/cool is what?
 
Is good for a case of normal burning. Good. But not legal.

It's nothing,.nada, bullshit, for safety in shtf cases. It's nothing for *repeated* exposure to somewhat elevated temperatures.

If you feel confident, at least ask your insurance company whether they would pay out if shtf,.given your current set up.
 
Getting back to the original question...
You've made good progress and concessions to make the installation safer and compliant with the limited documentation provided by the mfg. I'm not sure why the small step of meeting the hearth insulation spec which is clearly defined in the manual, is a sticking point, but wish you safe burning.
 
You guys are not going to get through to him at this point. You are not telling hom what he wants to hear, so he is merely parroting the same thing over an over to convince himself that his install is perfectly fine. This poster sadly, will have to learn the hard way. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but he is not going to head the warnings that have been posted. Hopefully he undestands when the first few embers burn that hearth rug.
 
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You guys are not going to get through to him at this point. You are not telling hom what he wants to hear, so he is merely parroting the same thing over an over to convince himself that his install is perfectly fine. This poster sadly, will have to learn the hard way. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but he is not going to head the warnings that have been posted. Hopefully he undestands when the first few embers burn that hearth rug.
So your telling me and everyone else that has a stove it's unsafe? I built a built out that surpasses everything in the manual and when burning the walls don't get hot at all with actually proof yet it's unsafe?
 
Getting back to the original question...
You've made good progress and concessions to make the installation safer and compliant with the limited documentation provided by the mfg. I'm not sure why the small step of meeting the hearth insulation spec which is clearly defined in the manual, is a sticking point, but wish you safe burning.
Like you said so meeting the specs is unsafe that's just what you said. Everything don't build a stove to the specs they recommend it's unsafe. It's honestly a joke you build something beyond and above the specs yet get called unsafe even with proof pictures.
 
So your telling me and everyone else that has a stove it's unsafe? I built a built out that surpasses everything in the manual and when burning the walls don't get hot at all with actually proof yet it's unsafe?

We are telling you that your hearth isn't even close to meeting the required insulation requirements. And the stove is not approved for an alcove installation. Look at stoves that are rated for alcove use. They all have higher clearance requirements when put in an alcove. So no you didn't exceed all requirements
 
We are telling you that your hearth isn't even close to meeting the required insulation requirements. And the stove is not approved for an alcove installation. So no you didn't exceed all requirements
Please show me proof and facts that it's not approved for that ...
 
Please show me proof and facts that it's not approved for that ...
The stoves manual doesn't list clearances for an alcove or have a diagram for it. Therefore it isn't approved for alcove installation. It's really that simple. And regardless your hearth isn't even close to meeting the insulation requirements
 
The stoves manual doesn't list clearances for an alcove or have a diagram for it. Therefore it isn't approved for alcove installation. It's really that simple. And regardless your hearth isn't even close to meeting the insulation requirements
So you don't have any prove it's not approved. Doesn't say anything that it can't be alcove. Show you pictures that nothing is hot on the walls. But ok...
 
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