Trailer for hauling wood

[adubree86]

I've been looking around CL for a used trailer to haul wood. I've come across these two. Which would you experienced wood haulers recommend? My budget is limited to less than $1000 so I don't have a lot to play with.


Trailer #1 - 6'-6" wide x 12'-6" long. 7000lb gvw. Steel cage sides. Steel deck. Has brake drums on both axles but they don't work so they need replaced and rewired. Tires are in average shape. Asking price $600.

Trailer #2 - 7' wide x 17' long. 7000lb gvw. Wood sides. Wood deck. Couple deck boards could use replacing. Has working brake drums on both axles. Tires are in pretty good shape. Asking price $850.

 

[SeanBB]

I would offer $700 for the second one and be prepared to go up to $775 if necessary. If the owner of the first one has been running it without brakes then there may be other things wrong with it.

 

[adubree86]

Here's my list of pros and cons on each

Trailer #1
Pros
Steel deck and side rails are more durable.

Cons
Will have the added cost of new drum brakes
Will have the added cost of new tires

Trailer #2
Pros
Good tires and brakes

Cons
Wood deck and sides not as durable
Cost for replacing some deck boards

What are your guys thoughts on length. I will be pulling with a '16 Ram 1500 with a towing capacity of 9,060lbs. I've installed bags on the rear as well. I don't know the empty weights of each trailer but figuring a cord of wood weight roughly 5000-6000lb wet I won't really be able to haul more than a cord. Trailer #1 stacked at roughly 20-24" high would yeild roughly a cord and trailer #2 could be spread across the entire trailer only 12-14" high. It seems most my wood supply is ash and oak. With the ash I'd be able to get a little more than a cord per load since it weighs less.

To me the 17' feels like it may be too long for my needs. This trailer will also double as my hauler for the ATV, trips to the lumber yard and dump, etc. Not sure I'd want to be pulling a 17' trailer every time I take my ATV somewhere.

 

[adubree86]

I should have clarified the price of Trailer #2 is $850 down from the $1000 asking price.

I would offer $700 for the second one and be prepared to go up to $775 if necessary. If the owner of the first one has been running it without brakes then there may be other things wrong with it.

 

[adubree86]

What else could possibly be wrong? Trailer breaks are pretty straight forward. All I forsee having to do is ripping off the drum assembly and bolting up new drum brake guts and rewiring. Am I missing something?

I would offer $700 for the second one and be prepared to go up to $775 if necessary. If the owner of the first one has been running it without brakes then there may be other things wrong with it.

 

[SeanBB]

Does it use an over-run sprung damper system? You may have to check that's not broken.

 

[adubree86]

Are you talking about surge brakes? If so that doesn't doesn't use surge brakes. Setup with electric style brakes.

Does it use an over-run sprung damper system? You may have to check that's not broken.

 

[salecker]

Trailer # 2 is the one you want,especially if you not mechanical inclined
Trailer #1 has Mobile Home axles under it.Tires are only available in a bias tire and are expensive if you buy them at a tire shop.The wheels are held on with wedges instead of studs and nuts.The axle wheel combo's are really tough and can haul a lot of weight but are outdated and some states and provinces may have outlawed them.At one time you could go and find 8 stud hubs that could interchange with the Dayton hubs.
Trailer 2 has lighter duty tires and wheels,but are modern,that trailer looks like the one i have but i have 8 hole wheels on mine.The frame looks heaver built than the axles it has.You can find 16" wheels in the 5 bolt wheel which would allow for higher rated tires.It has bias tires now which arn't bad if you are staying on pavement,but i see snow in the pic's.When they sand for ice and snow up here,bias trailer tires start going flat.
For the money trailer #2 is your best buy.

 

[salecker]

What else could possibly be wrong? Trailer breaks are pretty straight forward. All I forsee having to do is ripping off the drum assembly and bolting up new drum brake guts and rewiring. Am I missing something?

obsolete axles are under trailer #1

 

[adubree86]

Well I might skip on both and keep looking. I feel like 17' is too long and don't want to mess with the obsolete axles. I found a nice 5x10 tandem axle trailer for a very reasonable price problem is it doesn't have trailer brakes or the mounting flange. How big of a deal is it take to a trailer shop and have them weld on the brake flanges?

 

[blades]

think you have to replace the whole hub assembly to add brakes.

 

[JimBear]

Trailer #2 looks like an old converted livestock trailer or maybe just an old car hauler, probably leaf spring type suspension. I would defiantly opt for #2. Your ATV will be somewhat protected from the elements in that plus you can throw a tarp over it & enclose it to haul things in inclimate weather. You may also want to check all licenseing costs, working lights , etc. I would think 1”x decking boards would work for side board replacement, floor boards were generally 2”x6” or 2”x8”. Trailer #2 looks to set lower to the ground, easier loading ATV & misc objects.

 

[JimBear]

Your can also look at some farm auctions around the KC area, most have some type of “utility carts/wagons”.

 

[jwfirebird]

the first trailer looks pretty good to me, exactly what i found, bigger is always better. and the steel deck is worth a ton. maybe you can talk him down. i had those mobile home axles too. i went to redneck trailer and got two 3500lb dexter braking axles with exlube hubs for like 7 or 800, new lights and wires are pretty cheap. old jeep wheels i put on it, and i can haul a car or three quads, or dirt or wood. you cant find smaller trailers that will handle the weight you need. you will need a half ton to pull it though what ever you get or build

 

[Ashful]

I wouldn’t touch trailer 1 with a 10 foot pole, unless you weld. That tongue looks downright scary, in its insufficiency, not to mention the axles.

Trailer 2, which is pretty close to what I have. I also have the same tow vehicle, but with the 3.92 rear and heavier rear springs.

Firewood trailers get heavy, fast, as adubree already noted. You won’t be able to fill trailer 2, but you can get a good single height layer of rounds, before you hit weight capacity.

 

[Ashful]

Just saw your last note. I’m pulling a BigTex Vanguard 70TV 16 footer (20 feet LOA, 16 foot box, solid sides). It’s the perfect size for pulling behind a half ton with brakes, IMO.

My rig is detailed in this thread, skip to post 68 to see current configuration.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/got-trailer-need-winch.160211/page-3

 

[gzecc]

What ever trailer you get , get a ramp on the back to roll up rounds.

 

[Ashful]

What ever trailer you get , get a ramp on the back to roll up rounds.

Depends on your age, ambition, and the size of your rounds. I get so much big stuff from the location where I do most of my cutting, that rolling rounds became unfeasible. It didn’t help that my cutting buddy is in his 70’s. Winching full logs is my new mode, and I’m loving it.

I use the ramp for that, as well, but others have come up with a walking beam rig that lifts them right over the tail of the trailer.

 

[adubree86]

I plan to load whatever trailer i get up with splits. I can haul my splitter where I cut and split there. Less handling that way.

 

[adubree86]

Think I found a good trailer. 5’x10’ with 3’ sides. 7000gvw so it’ll haul a chord. Small enough to not be a burden when I want to haul just my atv. Double axle. Only thing is no brakes but I talked to a trailer fabrication shop and they’ll weld 2 brake mounting brackets in a jig for $50 so I can add brakes. Best part is trailer is only $450.

 

[JimBear]

Check it over for cracked welds & the tires for weather checks & wear. I would also figure in the cost of a new jack. Looks like it will serve the purpose though.

 

[adubree86]

It’ll get a good once over for sure. New jack is cheap enough. He sent me close ups of the tires and they look good. Tomorrow will tell the tale.

Check it over for cracked welds & the tires for weather checks & wear. I would also figure in the cost of a new jack. Looks like it will serve the purpose though.

 

[JimBear]

Hope it checks out well, looks like it’s a good one & the price is right also.

It’ll get a good once over for sure. New jack is cheap enough. He sent me close ups of the tires and they look good. Tomorrow will tell the tale.

 

[jwfirebird]

cant believe it doesnt have brakes, looks like they used it for wood. here its illegal to have a trailer over 1000 dry or registered for that much without breaks.

if it has the standard 4 bolt axle mount, you can just go to tsc or a trailer supply place and get complete hub units you bolt on to that flange with the brakes and everything

 

[Ashful]

@jwfirebird, I haven’t checked PA law recently, but here it used to be 3000 or 3500 GTW for brake requirement. 1000 lb would be a really light trailer (eg very small sailboat).

Check your state for brake requirements, as many only require them on one axle, but PA and some others require them on ALL wheels.

My opinion, it’s too small for firewood, unless you’re willing to make a trip every hour. That’s about how long it would take me to fill that tiny box, but I don’t split on site.

Also, if you split on site, how do you get your splitter back home? Sounds like another wasted round trip to retrieve it, after unloading your trailer? That can make an already-long day longer.