This is a friends tractor it run sweet for 20 mins then the only way it will run is with the choke on?
Trouble shooting a JD 212 lawn tractor.
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The carb need cleaning (probably). Get to the front of the carburetor, disconnect hoses, screws etc...and spray carb cleaning stuff in all the openings. I think I did this without removing the carb once. Do it a couple of times. Also add some seafoam to the gas tank and let it sit over night after running it. Could have something in the fuel line. Blow that back to the tank.
If you want more serious help from a very experienced crowd go to weekendfreedommachines website
If you want more serious help from a very experienced crowd go to weekendfreedommachines website
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
You can try this first, but it's most likely the jets in the carb are plugged up and you'll have to remove the jets and clean them out. Usually the result of letting old gas sit in carb too long, which is common in seasonal use engines, but maybe just from debris like rust.
forgot, you can download the service manual here: (right click and save as)
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
you might fid something like this
(broken image removed)
it would still start!
(broken image removed)
it would still start!
I would just about bet on it.
Oh he is...lol I will let you know but he wants to replace either way..... Do you have a link for a jd service manual la 135??????
+1 on replacing the points and condenser on that old Kohler if nobody can remember the last time it was done. Gap is .020 on those IIRC? Also worth throwing a neon spark tester on it of the points are not the issue. Could be a marginal coil getting weaker as it heats up.
Carburetor issues tend to improve as the engine reaches full temp rather than get worse. If you're 100% the ignition is ok, check the fuel lines, FILTER, and the pump. Don't forget to check the cap!
With the symptoms described, after checking out the easy stuff, I would go straight to a cylinder leak-down test. Could be time for a rebuild.
Carburetor issues tend to improve as the engine reaches full temp rather than get worse. If you're 100% the ignition is ok, check the fuel lines, FILTER, and the pump. Don't forget to check the cap!
With the symptoms described, after checking out the easy stuff, I would go straight to a cylinder leak-down test. Could be time for a rebuild.
pyroholic
Member
My dad's la170 was just doing that. It was a clogged breather hole in the gas cap. It would slowly build vacuum in the tank over about 2O min then stall when the fuel pump could no longer overcome the vacuum. Crack the cap, or wait a while and good for another 2O. No more problems after clearing clog. The choke helped too when it was acting up. Choking it was bringing the fuel/air ratio back to normal (or at least close) as the air was restricted to match the restricted fuel.
Every thing thats been mention is already new or on its way. This is one really good example of a 212. New gas cap came in yesterday. It no longer showed how much gas was in it so thats was the reason it got replaced(But not the issue). Head gasket, points are on the way. Coil check by dealer but a new one is still on the way. This is more of a rehurb so if you can think of anything else feel free! Even the knobs and gauges are new. Makes me want one!
i dont have a link to the la135 manual, hell they want like $80 for it
i wouldnt mind a 140 or a 314 myself (a 318 would be awesome but those are $$ or any of the 400's)
When he bought it the guy says it was rebuilt. By the looks of the bolts and screws I would say he telling the truth.
Well, from your first description...After 20 minutes you have to pull out the choke and then it runs relatively normal... that ain't spark...thats fuel. But it sounds like the dude is doing a full resto - so it probably ain't a big deal. He will get to it eventually.
Does not run normal kind of spits and sputters. Runs perfect though even while mowing and that 20 min mark just turns into a puck machine.
Old 200 Series GT's are beasts. That transmission is bombproof. And y'all already know how I feel about K-Series Kohlers.
Head gaskets that are blown that bad will be quite obvious while cranking or right when the engine starts up. If you can hear it "whiffing" then you know. Also that will affect it warm, hot, or cold so I think you're ok there. Check that head for true if you do pull it off. Also check for lateral play in the piston by pushing it around a bit. If it moves visibly, then it's worn, but these engines can tolerate a LOT of imperfection.
Running issues like you describe that are 20 mins in are usually vacu-locked fuel systems (bad cap) or compression issues. (worn rings, leaking valves etc.)
I have also seen where valves heat and start to stick, but admittedly not on the K series Kohlers.
My Cub has an 18hp Kohler that liked to have the choke on all the time. I recently blew out the fuel line, lubed the choke cable, and a couple other things, which fixed it. I think there was something sucked into the end of the fuel line where it meets the tank that caused a restriction- blew it out by mouth.
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