Update with woodstove: Question about Firebrick

[Mike Lawson]

Evening!

On Jan 3rd, I had installed a Pacific Energy Super LE (27?).

I was lucky to have someone offer about 1/2 cord of wood. I purchased wood at the box stores to get things started.
Things went well. In fact, my house has never been above 65F in the winter ever. When below 0F came, it was great.

I shortly ran out of wood and found a local area that was selling seasoned wood. I bought a moisture meter as recommended here.
Most of the wood was 11-16% splitting would find around 20-22%. It burned like wet wood and felt heavy like wet wood. I tried to burn it hot to control the creosote output. Two days I turned the damper down at night feeling it was all set and found so much creosote on the edges I swear it was wet and dripping.

To try to fight this, I purchased Rutlands Creosote remover and used daily for the first few days. This quickly turned the creosote inside the box to ash. How much inside I will find out in May-June.

I've been trying to bring in and cycle this seasoned wood that I have been purchasing. I ended up needed more kindling to guarantee hot coals to battle the wet wood. I purchased about 10 bundles of kiln dried wood. It felt really heavy but it was all they had locally and the area was sold out so I just went with it. I decided to use the last of it since it burned VERY poorly. That was 3 weeks ago. I spilt one today and it was 33% moisture.... I got burned badly. Oh well.

Any way. The main reason I write this other that to see if I get feedback/pointers is this: Three of my firebrick are broken and the rest seem pitted. I assume that this is because of the wet wood. I dont feel I have been violent with it but I cannot deny that it is possible that the one in the back was hit by a longer piece of wood. But two were... how to say it bulged. I thought maybe it was wet ash bulked up. Trying to tap it off resulted in two more broken.

I have full intentions to have 4-5 cord of wood cut split and stacked in a "American (https://downtoearthhomesteaders.com/how-to-stack-firewood-for-the-best-results/)" way. I was going to have it in the wide open but after hauling almost 3 cord from Jan-Mid-March? I want it closer and the closest is a long shed where I'll have a couple of pallet stacked on bottom and then tarp on top (rat bait traps and dicotimus earth on the bottom and sprinkled on it for ants, etc.) . Has to be out of sight for the Mrs. sake.

I apologize for the vagueness but could I get some advice? Am I doing ok considering?

Oh and a professional cleaning once burning season is done this year. After I want to get a brush (vinyl because of the accordion type of chimney liner they installed) once I see once how they do it.


Any way. great site and appreciate all the information read and hopefully will receive!

God Bless.

 

[begreen]

Any way. The main reason I write this other that to see if I get feedback/pointers is this: Three of my firebrick are broken and the rest seem pitted. I assume that this is because of the wet wood. I dont feel I have been violent with it but I cannot deny that it is possible that the one in the back was hit by a longer piece of wood. But two were... how to say it bulged. I thought maybe it was wet ash bulked up. Trying to tap it off resulted in two more broken.

That's really unusual. Cracking is often because of slamming in the wood which is easy to do in a hot stove. Try to avoid hitting the brick with the wood. With care, the firebrick will last over a decade. I have only replaced 3 in 14 seasons of burning.

 

[spuldup]

I can't speak to your stove but on mine the load door is rather low for 6'2" me. It is also deep so to fill the back on a hot reload I usualy have to perform a "toss". Accuracy isn't always guaranteed, and sometime I just know I hit a brick. I have a 6 pack on hand of which I've used 2 this year.

 

[Ashful]

When I first switched from a stove with an iron fireback to one with bricks, I also broke several in the back. I didn't feel I was being hard on them, but apparently there's room for interpretation in the word "gentle".

The secret for me was to start wearing hearth gloves when I loaded, every time. I used to only don them if I had to retrieve a log from the firebox to re-arrange a poorly-planned Tetris. But the reality is that, no matter how tough you think your hands are, you'll take more time and care in placing logs into the firebox while wearing gloves, versus without.

Broken bricks are usually not a big deal. Leave them until summer, if they will still stand in place, or swap them with replacements from any hardware store if they won't. You might have to buy a larger size and cut down (diamond bit on angle grinder, or a tile saw), if your stove takes an unusual size.

 

[begreen]

If the brick is simply cracked in half, then it can often be swapped with a floor brick that has not cracked.

 

[Mike Lawson]

I can't speak to your stove but on mine the load door is rather low for 6'2" me. It is also deep so to fill the back on a hot reload I usualy have to perform a "toss". Accuracy isn't always guaranteed, and sometime I just know I hit a brick. I have a 6 pack on hand of which I've used 2 this year.

6'2" I just sit on the floor and load it. Still burn my arms sometimes even with welders gloves...

 

[TomMcDonald]

Welding gloves are essential so that you can gently place wood into the stove. You don't want to be breaking bricks as the firebox's lifespan could be reduced dramatically without correct protection.

I'd also be cleaning your chimney now as you're likely to have creosote up there burning all that wet wood.

 

[Ashful]

Welding gloves are essential so that you can gently place wood into the stove. You don't want to be breaking bricks as the firebox's lifespan could be reduced dramatically without correct protection.

Welding gloves certainly work, I used to use them. But try some hearth gloves next time you're buying, they are much more flexible and it's easier to handle logs and tools while wearing them, with no noticeable difference in how well they protect your hands in this particular application.

 

[TomMcDonald]

Welding gloves certainly work, I used to use them. But try some hearth gloves next time you're buying, they are much more flexible and it's easier to handle logs and tools while wearing them, with no noticeable difference in how well they protect your hands in this particular application.

Thanks, I'll look into them.

 

[Mike Lawson]

Thanks, I'll look into them.

I have no idea if this helps but the welding gloves I purchased where the most expensive because they had some kelvar thing in them that I read quickly on a website about what gloves to get. They are Harbor Freight (I know... I know...) Vulcan Defender Gloves: Master Welder Series ("https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-mig-welding-gloves-x-large-63488.html".). I can attest to picking up a red coaled pieces of wood out of the stove and it didnt melt nor burn with it. But, the heat does transfer within moments to remind you that maybe you shouldn't hang on to this thing much longer. I'd say no more than 5-8 seconds and then mind said you better put that back before you regret it. They are flexable and they work no different that say ski 3m thinsulate type gloves in comparison. I'm not familiar with Hearth gloves but all I know these have done the trick. I wish they were a bit longer but I have learned to watch my arms bouncing off the edges when messing with the coals/ wood. Skin melts VERY fast... .geesh! ADD IN: Just found website that mentioned Kevlar because Hardbor Frieght doesnt mention it in the materials... its Kevlar STITCHING...