US Stove 6041 tp

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But why whend i reset my stove does it start the hpp on 5?. Someone needs to be kicked in the nuts!
LOL, ya it's just a starting point and I think that they consider that most people are just going to burn pellets.

As far as the draft fan being new, it may not be the fan itself but if the vacuum line is damaged or not hooked up then the fan won't do what it's supposed to do when the stove senses a loss of vacuum. The fan is only going to do what it's told to do from the board (or in manual what you adjust) and the board is only going to be able to tell the fan what to do by what the sensors in the stove is telling the board.
 
Went home last night turned down the pph high 5 numbers at a time tI'll I ended on 3.0. Pph low is 1.50. The whole corn is burning now just trying to get rid of the ash in the pot. Manual damper is half way out. I'm trying to blow the ashes out of the pot. Making great head way. I'm glad the whole piece of corn is burning now.
 
Went home last night turned down the pph high 5 numbers at a time tI'll I ended on 3.0. Pph low is 1.50. The whole corn is burning now just trying to get rid of the ash in the pot. Manual damper is half way out. I'm trying to blow the ashes out of the pot. Making great head way. I'm glad the whole piece of corn is burning now.
Excellent! Now the small tweaks come in to play. Just keep track of whats working so you can always go back easily! You should be able to dial it in so that the only time the manual damper is open at all is while lighting the stove. Once you get the DF setting to burn good on low the agitator should churn up the ash to either go down through the holes in the pot or blow out without the damper being open.

I'd play with that low setting, get the pph as low as possible with adjusting the DF to burn nicely. Then you could increase your HR5 pph a little so that would give you better heat during real cold weather. Right now you HR5 rate is just below my HR5 rate and I still have 4 more HR's to get more heat from. It's a fine line of burning nice and blowing heat out of the exhaust, you'll get it, it just takes time.

Now I have to ask! Your screen name. Chickens? Roasters, cackle berries, chick hatching, all or none of the former? I'm allowed 3 chickens here in Green Bay, have been meaning to get some egg layers but haven't put together a tractor for them as I'd like to be able to move them around. My fenced in yard would be ok for them to roam around when I'm out with them but at night I'd like to keep the critters away from them. I used to give all of my corn fines and redwings/dust from vacuuming my corn into the IBC totes to my niece when they had chickens and I'd get free eggs but they don't have time for it anymore. All I know is that I'm now feeding a bunch of very fat squirrels in my yard and they don't lay eggs in return!
 
Yes we hatch and raise golden comet hens. I raised around 800 meat chickens each year for the last 6 years. I decided to change gears. I made my own incabators out of old fridges. I have 3 now and can hatch around 800 eggs at one time. I have a pretty big clientele. Hopping to get bigger in years to come.
 
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I didn't realize chickens were allowed in town. We are from Ohio and live on a nice size farm.
Yup, a few years ago they OK'd them, max 3, no roosters and you have to pay like a $5.00 per year permit and they inspect to make sure that where you have them won't disturb the neighbors.

I grew up on a 120 acre farm in northern WI 1960's-1970's. When my brother in law took over he had a big dream of becoming rich on chickens. We had them cycled so that 200 every 45 days were headed, dunked, plucked and cleaned, all by hand!! We chased the cows out of the barn for the day and had large tanks with boiling water to dunk them in and then hung them on the stanchions. Funny that the brother in law's ONLY job was to cut the heads off, I had to catch them hold them he chopped, I then held them into a 5 gallon bucket until bled out. He got sick of doing it even though all he was doing was chopping! We had to do all the dirty work!

We use to save/freeze the blood and then set it out on the bottom of a valley and we would sit on top on moonlit night and plink the coyotes coming in for it, few raccoons also. We had more problems with the raccoons than we did foxes. Worse thing about raccoons is that they would only eat the crop out of the chickens and leave the rest, at least the foxes would take the whole bird.

Hey, good luck with the birds and your stove!! Back on topic before I get hollered at. :)
 
If I want to send more air to my fire, do I need to play with the high or low phh?
Well to get it to burn good first you need to get it burning on the low HR setting real good. The upper end is the easy part once the low end is working good. What HR are you running at right now? And it would be the DF setting to change first, the lower DF setting, bump it up like 10 numbers.
 
HR 4 cause it's 16 degrees tonight.

So put the stove in the low hr and adjust the low end pph?
NO. I didn't realize you were running that high. So the flame and burn looked good on the lower end? If so then yes you might need to bump the high end DF up. The last I saw you were at 270 high end DF? If that is correct I would only bump it say 5, to 275, see what it does, if not enough after 20 minutes go another 5 to 280. This is were it can get a little tricky, good burn or to much heat going out of the exhaust. Do you have any thermometers on the stove? Those really help trouble shooting down the line and telling you how the stove is running. Easy to spot changes from prior burns if the stove is running different the temps will show it real fast.

Edited to add: You don't have to change the HR number to adjust the DF, if you push the DF UP and AUX up and change the number, then push the "ON" button for the changes to take. The stove will remain running on the HR you have it on and only the DF setting will change.
 
How far should the damper be pulled out? Or does it depend on the heat rang your using?
I had to look back and I see you have an OAK installed. The only time that I have the manual damper open at all is when lighting the stove after cleaning. Once the stove is up and burning real good I close that damper all the way.

This is where adjusting the DF comes in. Once you have it dialed in correctly you will not need to have the damper open while running the stove. The stove should then pull the air it needs through the OAK.