Used F400 - what to inspect/replace?

[dcaisenbrey]

I've had an F400 gathering dust in my shed since a relative pulled it out of a house they sold almost a decade ago. Unfortunately in the move it was dropped, breaking one of the legs and a skinny SS handle on the front (air control?). At least that's what I know is broken - which leads to my main question:

If I want to put this stove into service, what do I need to inspect to ensure it won't burn my house down?

I already know that I need to switch the flue from rear to top-exhaust, but beyond that I'm in the dark. Gaskets? Cement? Specific internal components I need to check for integrity?

For context, if helpful: 1200sqft single floor home, corner install, already have double wall pipe, through-ceiling kit, and triple wall chimney in place. Haven't worked out the hearth pad yet (manual says it needs r2 or bottom heat shield).

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[begreen]

A gasket kit for this stove would be a good idea. If this is a single-door model then here is the kit on eBay:

Jotul Wood Stove SINGLE DOOR F400 Castine Gasket Kit *FREE Shipping!* | eBay

Jotul Wood Stove SINGLE DOOR Jotul F400 Gasket Kit -Abbreviated version of Jotul Part Number- 157050 With ONLY whats needed to fit following models-. I have many Jotul kits! These are the HIGHEST quality Jotul fiberglass stove gasket kits available!

www.ebay.com

 

[dcaisenbrey]

Finally found someone to help me lug this beast out into the open so I can clean it out and get a good look. I've got the new gasket kit on the way, but is there anything else that obviously needs attention from the photos? Should there be cement in all those interior plate joints?

 

[begreen]

Doesn't look too bad in the pictures. I'm assuming that is a dust streak or cobweb in the flue collar.

 

[EbS-P]

Reach your hand (or find someone with small hands and verify the deflector is still correctly positioned on top of the baffle. (If you pull the top the top gasket it will be obvious if it’s in place or not.

It doesn’t look like it was used much looking at the gaskets under the edges of the baffle.

Give the door and ash pan door the dollar bill test. Stick a bright light in the ash pan and close the door in a dark room to look for leaks.

Do you have the grate that goes in the bottom? Parts should be readily available even though it’s no longer in production

 

[bigealta]

Yup grate that covers the ashpan is needed if you don't have it.

I'd unbolt the top and leave the 2 bolts off to maintain good access to the interior. Those 2 bolts are "shipping bolts".
Mine have been off for years.

That's a good woodstove you have there, take care of it and it will treat you well.

Also holds it's value pretty well.

 

[dcaisenbrey]

Thanks all! I do have the grate, just removed it to clean. I've got a new air control rod, gaskets, and 8" legs coming (though the front right leg took off the chunk of frame with the threaded mounting hole when it broke - just planning to prop up that corner with a block).

 

[begreen]

just planning to prop up that corner with a block).

A non-combustible block please.

 

[dcaisenbrey]

A non-combustible block please.

I have some poplar that I spilled a little gas on, figured that'd do the trick 😆

 

[dcaisenbrey]

@begreen can I just ask you here vs. starting a separate thread? ->

I can't find a prefab hearth pad product in the size I need (42x44") for less than $300. The manual allows for a UL-listed pad OR an r2 non-combustible option. Any genius DIY solutions that are at least R2 and more affordable to cover a wood floor? Bonus points for as short as possible.

 

[begreen]

The fastest solution may be to put on a bottom heat shield to lower the hearth requirement. Then a DIY hearth pad will suffice.

Jotul Bottom Heatshield

Jotul, Jotul stove parts, Jotul wood stove parts, Jotul gas stove parts, Jotul woodstove parts

www.woodmanspartsplus.com

Tip: let the ash pan fill up with ashes above the grate and shovel out the ashes instead. The ash pan door seal is tricky and often leaks a little. The pan full of ash eliminates that issue and provides a more insulated bed under the fire. Many note that the F400 runs better this way.

 

[bigealta]

Just realized i have a heat shield on my f400. It's similar to the one above but without those flat pieces on the top ends.
I've had my f400 burning 24/7 for days and the brick under the stove is barley even warm to the touch.

And i empty my ash pan all the time so this is with not much ash blocking heat thru the pan.