Are there any concerns with this? I have a lead on a nice insert, but would rather a free standing. Am I better to wait or a free standing or can I use the insert in same capacity?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Using an insert as free standing
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Owen1508
Minister of Fire
If it were me I'd wait on a freestanding stove. My concern other then safety is that your Home Owners Ins. won't like it.
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Do you need the extra heating capacity with the blower? They are good for directing heat out the front........... no step top for different cooking temperatures. Baffle plate can be installed, but a pipe connection will need to be fabricated to connect to stove pipe.
I've only seen one nice looking conversion that used large diameter pipe for legs. Can't find the pics; I'll search. Otherwise they look spindly on thin legs.
![[Hearth.com] Using an insert as free standing](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/136/136483-9fff242799b88e72f200b57a1fb3cc4d.jpg?hash=GvtDT-kG2F "[Hearth.com] Using an insert as free standing")
I've only seen one nice looking conversion that used large diameter pipe for legs. Can't find the pics; I'll search. Otherwise they look spindly on thin legs.
Im at 1800 square foot ranch. I use a wood pellet stove now, so I think capacity wise, its about the same as a mama bear. My buddy has an old Schrader in the garage (BIG GARAGE) that we heat to 90 degrees with only a box fan behind it. They are asking $350, has the glass doors and brass and all the trim for insert fitment.
Closer to a Papa in size taking 27 inch logs over the Mama 24 and almost twice the width. It's more of a deeper Grandma. Longer burn duration too. Having brass and glass, I'd go for it. The solid doors are nothing special, so I personally wouldn't do it with solid doors.
The main thing is front to back loading like a deep narrow single door Fisher. That is the best design for burning wood, instead of across the doors like a fireplace style stove. My reasoning is from experience with older wood burning locomotives that had very deep, narrow fire boxes that the flues in front would pull air down the logs. The single doors and Insert burn down to finer ash near the front at air intakes, and you can remove that ash each morning before pulling the charcoal and coals ahead to reload on. The fresh load takes right off. Never needing to let the coal pile burn down to remove lots of ash in a cool stove - when it's your only heat source. Of course you can't view the fire with the deep narrow single solid door stoves, so it's the only choice for steady heat, and fire viewing.
Set on an angle iron frame with 2 1/2 or 3 inch black iron pipe legs, they look quite stout.
(sitting it on the frame allows it to return to an insert since you have the parts)
The main thing is front to back loading like a deep narrow single door Fisher. That is the best design for burning wood, instead of across the doors like a fireplace style stove. My reasoning is from experience with older wood burning locomotives that had very deep, narrow fire boxes that the flues in front would pull air down the logs. The single doors and Insert burn down to finer ash near the front at air intakes, and you can remove that ash each morning before pulling the charcoal and coals ahead to reload on. The fresh load takes right off. Never needing to let the coal pile burn down to remove lots of ash in a cool stove - when it's your only heat source. Of course you can't view the fire with the deep narrow single solid door stoves, so it's the only choice for steady heat, and fire viewing.
Set on an angle iron frame with 2 1/2 or 3 inch black iron pipe legs, they look quite stout.
(sitting it on the frame allows it to return to an insert since you have the parts)
Coaly- Thank you for the information, much much more than I previously had!! As long as there is no safely concerns I am okay with it appearing slight out of place as a free standing. I am sure I use the blowers or a fan to circulate the heat. Is the price fair?
Ram 1500 with an axe...
Minister of Fire
Inserts are double wall and radiate less off the back and sides than a freestanding stove. They are UL listed when installed as per installation instructions. This is where an insurance co. or inspector may have a problem since page 6 of the manual states; "The Fisher Fireplace Insert is intended for installation into masonry fireplaces which meet the construction requirements in NFPA 211 code for Chimneys, Fireplaces and Vents". Notice it reads "intended" not "must be installed". So I would go by the generic clearance for non-listed appliances to be safe. (also found in NFPA 211) It has been documented that the double door stoves and Inserts physically work well with 6 inch flues, (even with a smoke shelf baffle installed in firebox) but codes and the manual do not allow reduction in size below 50 square inches or 8 inches round. This was due to open burning with screen in place requiring larger flue to avoid smoke roll in. So if you have a 6 inch chimney, and require inspection, this may be a concern.
You didn't mention chimney - the most important part. If you need a chimney, I'd install a 6 inch for a single door stove since most newer stoves are going to require 6 as well.
You didn't mention chimney - the most important part. If you need a chimney, I'd install a 6 inch for a single door stove since most newer stoves are going to require 6 as well.
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