VC Encore 2040 Burn Cycle

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This is mine closed and then fully open. View attachment 316607View attachment 316606
Well.. this looks like it could be the problem.. Your air flapper is not open all the way.. this is an easy adjustment as described above.. literally a minutes time

you could have the installer do it but from what you have said above your handy.. just make sure your flapper closes all the way.. do this with a COLD STOVE... What is the overall length of stovepipe you have
 
@Woodsplitter67 do you push your coals towards the back when you reload? The manual recommends doing so

It depends on the coal be itself.. If I've been burning for a while and Im not burning substantially down no , especially if its a hot reload no, if the catalyst is borderline on operating temperature and I have a smaller coal bed yes..

All of our stove are a little different.. Once your learn what the stove likes your success is repeatable..
 
So are 1000 - 1400 degree Cat temps normal and safe ? what should the stove pipe temp be when this is happening ? i also have the "operate Catalyst" prob and need a digital one for this year.

Cat temperature of 800 to 1500 are a range the people Typically see.. the better temperatures are 1000 to 1450.. As for flue temps once the catalyst is engaged.. im not worried about it and really dont monitor it at all. Ill look at flue temperature only when Im getting the stove up to temperature.. Ill look for a temperature of 300/400 degrees te established enough draft to start the catalyst..
 
Well.. this looks like it could be the problem.. Your air flapper is not open all the way.. this is an easy adjustment as described above.. literally a minutes time

you could have the installer do it but from what you have said above your handy.. just make sure your flapper closes all the way.. do this with a COLD STOVE... What is the overall length of stovepipe you have
That is as far as the flapper will open. From the adjustment lever you can hear the flapper ting metal at fully open and at fully closed. When it’s fully open like the picture shows and I push on the flapper by hand it doesn’t open any further, something stops it.
IMG_2175.jpeg
I have a short interior run to an elbow, through wall, then a 16’ exterior run. IMG_2170.jpeg
 
That is as far as the flapper will open. From the adjustment lever you can hear the flapper ting metal at fully open and at fully closed. When it’s fully open like the picture shows and I push on the flapper by hand it doesn’t open any further, something stops it.
View attachment 316616
I have a short interior run to an elbow, through wall, then a 16’ exterior run. View attachment 316615

So your stack is probably 18ft. not terrible.. but the 2 90s are going to reduce the draft some.. as hot air wants to go vertical and not really horizontal.

Loosen the hex nut on the flapper and see if you can pull the cable out some.. Retighten the hexnut.. and check flapper.. By showing your setup and confirming Wood MC.. you have ruled out a number of variables to the issue.. adding some height and adjusting the flapper my be the only thing you need to do..

As a side not.. Basement installs sometimes are tough.. Im not saying you are having a negative pressure issue , but its challenging..
 
I knew that going in that a basement install could pose some challenges but my house was built in '59 and she's definitely not air tight so I'm not too concerned with a negative pressure issue, although it is a factor.
I'll try adjusting the flapper later today and see if I can get it to open further. Thank you for the time and advice so far. Very much appreciated.
Also, just to see if I'm crazy or not; where the elbow connects into the thru wall horizontal pipe, should that elbow be fastened to the horizontal pipe with the three screws, or should it sit there loose?
 
I knew that going in that a basement install could pose some challenges but my house was built in '59 and she's definitely not air tight so I'm not too concerned with a negative pressure issue, although it is a factor.
I'll try adjusting the flapper later today and see if I can get it to open further. Thank you for the time and advice so far. Very much appreciated.
Also, just to see if I'm crazy or not; where the elbow connects into the thru wall horizontal pipe, should that elbow be fastened to the horizontal pipe with the three screws, or should it sit there loose?

Its not a problem helping you out.. This is what this site is all about.. Were all friends here.. or at least most of us anyways.. So all of my stove pipes have at least 1 screw .. example my oval stove adapter to stove pipe has 1.. the telescoping stovepipe has 3.. Me personally.. when Im doing an overnight burn or really any burning I wouldn't want the pipes to somehow come apart..
 
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Its not a problem helping you out.. This is what this site is all about.. Were all friends here.. or at least most of us anyways..
I’m surprised your little buddy hasn’t popped in to comment on this thread yet😂
 
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I got the wrench to loosen the nut on the flapper, but there wasn’t much play with the wire at all. If I pulled the wire and tighten the nut or if I loosened the wire and tighten the nut it didn’t change the flapper much.
While I was down there I saw another area just above it. Any idea what I’m looking at?
IMG_0043.jpegIMG_0040.jpegIMG_0044.jpeg
 
I got the wrench to loosen the nut on the flapper, but there wasn’t much play with the wire at all. If I pulled the wire and tighten the nut or if I loosened the wire and tighten the nut it didn’t change the flapper much.
While I was down there I saw another area just above it. Any idea what I’m looking at?
View attachment 316678View attachment 316679View attachment 316680

That is your secondary air intake.. This will not change the primary air. It looks like you got the thermostat cable out more.. what does the flapper opening look like now.. can you send a picture