VC Encore Defiant Rebuilding Stove - Update - Anyone pressure test a stove?

[Jimxj2000]

Well the rebuild of the stove (VC encore defiant 2140) has been a learning experience...and isn't done yet.

Stove looks great - power wire brushing and polishing the outside worked well.

I am still having troubles with the running of the stove after many hours of wire brushing, re-tapping holes and trying to fit everything together. I think the upper fireback is not fitting correctly resulting in hot, short burns.

I am getting 4-5 hour burns with the griddle temp peaking at 700F (upper limit recommended by VC). The CAT is engaging and working fine. But I think I am drawing too much air or bypassing too much air. I have checked the primary air door closed and the secondary mostly closed when running - still getting a very hot, quick fire.

I am planning on pulling out the upper fireback and cleaning and re-installing. This piece was very hard to get into place, I had to try to pull it in using the bolts (actually several different size bolts to slowly more it into place). I think the cement at the top had hardened already so it would not fit properly but I did not whant to pull too hard and stip the holes. Now I think I have air gaps around the upper fireback to I am only partialy blocking flow when closing the damper door.

I suspect the upper fireback because I notice the setup was not tight after trying a couple test runs - those were very hot (over 800F) until I realize the griddle thermometer was broken (wife mentioned kids playing with it all summer - and I noticed I could put my hand on the griddle for at least a second when I was reading 350F)). Now I can see the damper door does not meet up that well - I added an extra gasket rope to seal it - so I think the whole upper fire back is leaking around the edges and top (which are nearly impossible to see).

Once I get the upper fireback re-done, the next step will be to try to test the stove for leaks.

Has anyone done this? What could I use for a smoke source? If not a smoke I was thinking I could remove the stove, tape over the flue opening and air inlets then install connection for a bike pump then use soapy water/snoop for looking for air leaks.

Has anyone done this?

I really don't want to give up on this stove...but I might be getting close.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Well the rebuild of the stove (VC encore defiant 2140) has been a learning experience...and isn't done yet.

Stove looks great - power wire brushing and polishing the outside worked well.

I am still having troubles with the running of the stove after many hours of wire brushing, re-tapping holes and trying to fit everything together. I think the upper fireback is not fitting correctly resulting in hot, short burns.

I am getting 4-5 hour burns with the griddle temp peaking at 700F (upper limit recommended by VC). The CAT is engaging and working fine. But I think I am drawing too much air or bypassing too much air. I have checked the primary air door closed and the secondary mostly closed when running - still getting a very hot, quick fire.

I am planning on pulling out the upper fireback and cleaning and re-installing. This piece was very hard to get into place, I had to try to pull it in using the bolts (actually several different size bolts to slowly more it into place). I think the cement at the top had hardened already so it would not fit properly but I did not whant to pull too hard and stip the holes. Now I think I have air gaps around the upper fireback to I am only partialy blocking flow when closing the damper door.

I suspect the upper fireback because I notice the setup was not tight after trying a couple test runs - those were very hot (over 800F) until I realize the griddle thermometer was broken (wife mentioned kids playing with it all summer - and I noticed I could put my hand on the griddle for at least a second when I was reading 350F)). Now I can see the damper door does not meet up that well - I added an extra gasket rope to seal it - so I think the whole upper fire back is leaking around the edges and top (which are nearly impossible to see).

Once I get the upper fireback re-done, the next step will be to try to test the stove for leaks.

Has anyone done this? What could I use for a smoke source? If not a smoke I was thinking I could remove the stove, tape over the flue opening and air inlets then install connection for a bike pump then use soapy water/snoop for looking for air leaks.

Has anyone done this?

I really don't want to give up on this stove...but I might be getting close.

It will have 'leaks'. EPA stoves are not air tight.

 

[raygard]

Well the rebuild of the stove (VC encore defiant 2140) has been a learning experience...and isn't done yet.

Stove looks great - power wire brushing and polishing the outside worked well.

I am still having troubles with the running of the stove after many hours of wire brushing, re-tapping holes and trying to fit everything together. I think the upper fireback is not fitting correctly resulting in hot, short burns.

I am getting 4-5 hour burns with the griddle temp peaking at 700F (upper limit recommended by VC). The CAT is engaging and working fine. But I think I am drawing too much air or bypassing too much air. I have checked the primary air door closed and the secondary mostly closed when running - still getting a very hot, quick fire.

I am planning on pulling out the upper fireback and cleaning and re-installing. This piece was very hard to get into place, I had to try to pull it in using the bolts (actually several different size bolts to slowly more it into place). I think the cement at the top had hardened already so it would not fit properly but I did not whant to pull too hard and stip the holes. Now I think I have air gaps around the upper fireback to I am only partialy blocking flow when closing the damper door.

I suspect the upper fireback because I notice the setup was not tight after trying a couple test runs - those were very hot (over 800F) until I realize the griddle thermometer was broken (wife mentioned kids playing with it all summer - and I noticed I could put my hand on the griddle for at least a second when I was reading 350F)). Now I can see the damper door does not meet up that well - I added an extra gasket rope to seal it - so I think the whole upper fire back is leaking around the edges and top (which are nearly impossible to see).

Once I get the upper fireback re-done, the next step will be to try to test the stove for leaks.

Has anyone done this? What could I use for a smoke source? If not a smoke I was thinking I could remove the stove, tape over the flue opening and air inlets then install connection for a bike pump then use soapy water/snoop for looking for air leaks.

Has anyone done this?

I really don't want to give up on this stove...but I might be getting close.

Oh, it took me a bit trying to figure out what you want to do. If you started a really small fire, we are talking coffee cup size and when that is all well and lit go and put some green leaves. Crud, that's not going to work (leaves are all off the trees). Something that will make the fire smoke really badly and close the damper, lock all the air down as tight as possible and watch the little bugger smoke.

you aren't getting any leakage from around the ash pan gasket or the window gaskets at all? They are what did me in.

Ray

 

[DAKSY]

Light a fire in it & when it's burning good, light a stick of incense
& pass it around, over & under the entire firebox. Wherever there's AIR
entering the stove, it'll also draw the SMOKE from the incense stick.
You could also use a cigarette, but the incense will smell better...

 

[Diabel]

Light a fire in it & when it's burning good, light a stick of incense
& pass it around, over & under the entire firebox. Wherever there's AIR
entering the stove, it'll also draw the SMOKE from the incense stick.
You could also use a cigarette, but the incense will smell better...

+1!

 

[Diabel]

Well the rebuild of the stove (VC encore defiant 2140) has been a learning experience...and isn't done yet.

Stove looks great - power wire brushing and polishing the outside worked well.

I am still having troubles with the running of the stove after many hours of wire brushing, re-tapping holes and trying to fit everything together. I think the upper fireback is not fitting correctly resulting in hot, short burns.

I am getting 4-5 hour burns with the griddle temp peaking at 700F (upper limit recommended by VC). The CAT is engaging and working fine. But I think I am drawing too much air or bypassing too much air. I have checked the primary air door closed and the secondary mostly closed when running - still getting a very hot, quick fire.

I am planning on pulling out the upper fireback and cleaning and re-installing. This piece was very hard to get into place, I had to try to pull it in using the bolts (actually several different size bolts to slowly more it into place). I think the cement at the top had hardened already so it would not fit properly but I did not whant to pull too hard and stip the holes. Now I think I have air gaps around the upper fireback to I am only partialy blocking flow when closing the damper door.

I suspect the upper fireback because I notice the setup was not tight after trying a couple test runs - those were very hot (over 800F) until I realize the griddle thermometer was broken (wife mentioned kids playing with it all summer - and I noticed I could put my hand on the griddle for at least a second when I was reading 350F)). Now I can see the damper door does not meet up that well - I added an extra gasket rope to seal it - so I think the whole upper fire back is leaking around the edges and top (which are nearly impossible to see).

Once I get the upper fireback re-done, the next step will be to try to test the stove for leaks.

Has anyone done this? What could I use for a smoke source? If not a smoke I was thinking I could remove the stove, tape over the flue opening and air inlets then install connection for a bike pump then use soapy water/snoop for looking for air leaks.

Has anyone done this?

I really don't want to give up on this stove...but I might be getting close.

When you close the bypass door & shut the air completely (lever on the right) do the flames disappear after few seconds? if not then the stove is leaking air from foreign areas.

 

[defiant3]

A thing I've used in the past is one of those gas matches with the flame set pretty high. Any leaks will draw the flame right in. No smoke, no mess, just be a little careful of course. Likely it is a gasket issue allowing air to sneak in. Esp. check around glass andf ash pan door.

You can plug up the bleeder holes too if you just can't find a specific leak. Sort of cheating, but it works.

 

[defiant3]

Oh yeah, did you make sure the secondary air probe is doin' its thang properly?

 

[Jimxj2000]

Thanks for the posts.

I have checked the seconday air door - working fine.

Before closing the damper, when I could the primary air control the fire will die down or won't even start. Once it is up and running, I have to keep the primary air door closed to keeps the temps OK.

I like the idea of the incese to look for leaks. Not sure where to buy any...and not planing on going to the malls in the next few days. Some dried sage may work as well (which we do have).

For now I am mixing new wood (40% on the moisture meter) with the dry (8% on the meter) and that gets me a longer burn time and cooler temps (and an extra cleaning) for a few days until I can remove and reset the upper fireback.