Vc encore masonry surround

[Anthony09]

I have got a new Vc encore. It’s rear vented
It will sit out in room far enough to meet all clearances. I am building an all masonry surround( kind of alcove but not really. It will be 1 inch off studs in the back n it is built on block foundation all the way to the ground under house, it will be 8 inch block with fire brick on hearth pad and inner walls, and regular brick on outside. If it meets all clearance to combustibles as is and build the surrounds completely out of masonry do clearances from masonry matter. Stove will sit halfway in hole. I know this sounds complicated but it’s the look we are after.

 

[EbS-P]

I have got a new Vc encore. It’s rear vented
It will sit out in room far enough to meet all clearances. I am building an all masonry surround( kind of alcove but not really. It will be 1 inch off studs in the back n it is built on block foundation all the way to the ground under house, it will be 8 inch block with fire brick on hearth pad and inner walls, and regular brick on outside. If it meets all clearance to combustibles as is and build the surrounds completely out of masonry do clearances from masonry matter. Stove will sit halfway in hole. I know this sounds complicated but it’s the look we are after.

View attachment 301764

This is being asked more frequently. What you are proposing similar to an alcove but, The clearance to ceiling will (for the alcove specs) not be followed because it is a masonry structure. It is kind of grey area. If the stove is permitted to be installed in a fireplace and all the clearances to combustibles is met. It seems save but without proper testing we don’t know. Are you following fireplace construction code? Why only 1” clearance to the studs? Can your reference any written documentation for that chosen clearance? I’m not being critical of your choices just wanting to make sure you are not missing something important. I think the issues is how will you vent it. Class A inside the the masonry “chase”. Connected to double wall at the “ceiling”?

Ask VC and see if they offer any guidance. Will it need to be inspected? Does your homeowners insurance have any thing they would require of you?

 

[Anthony09]

Just to be safe I left that air gap that is sometimes required. Vc does permit fireplace install and I’ve talked with them, just didn’t seem very knowledgeable honestly. Surpasses all clearances for that type install. The stove pipe rear vents through back wall on mine. That is only real difference from pic. Have insulated thimble through back just to be safe. Then goes through old chimney flu and up. Old chimney and flu lined with 6” insulated class a. Chase is blocked off at mantle height. Gonna leave weep holes between some bricks just to make sure heat that radiates is not trapped up there. I will check with insurance. The gap to studs is actually gonna end up bout 2 inches. But again it is a foot of solid masonry so not really sure any of that necessary

 

[Anthony09]

This is being asked more frequently. What you are proposing similar to an alcove but, The clearance to ceiling will (for the alcove specs) not be followed because it is a masonry structure. It is kind of grey area. If the stove is permitted to be installed in a fireplace and all the clearances to combustibles is met. It seems save but without proper testing we don’t know. Are you following fireplace construction code? Why only 1” clearance to the studs? Can your reference any written documentation for that chosen clearance? I’m not being critical of your choices just wanting to make sure you are not missing something important. I think the issues is how will you vent it. Class A inside the the masonry “chase”. Connected to double wall at the “ceiling”?

Ask VC and see if they offer any guidance. Will it need to be inspected? Does your homeowners insurance have any thing they would require of you?

And on an actually fireplace I believe clearance is more to combustibles behind but it has a direct fire in it which is much hotter than the 500-600 degree stove that is a foot or better off that back wall. That is just my thoughts on the back coearance(not trying to be argumentative as I want yalls opinions. Thank you for responding

 

[EbS-P]

Ok calling it a modified old masonry fireplace may change things. I am really I’m a complete amateur but it sounds like you have a good handle on everything. One point I will make class A is not allowed inside old chimney. The proper method would be insulated stainless chimney liner. Have any modifications been made to old chimney and has it been inspected by a professional?

 

[Anthony09]

I misspoke it was professionally installed by reputable company and is insulated chimney liner. They did the inspection as well

Ok calling it a modified old masonry fireplace may change things. I am really I’m a complete amateur but it sounds like you have a good handle on everything. One point I will make class A is not allowed inside old chimney. The proper method would be insulated stainless chimney liner. Have any modifications been made to old chimney and has it been inspected by a professional?

 

[Anthony09]

I am too I really know nothin bout wood stoves that’s why I wanna be sure to get it right. Professionally we do masonry so comfortable with that aspect of it but no real experience with wood stoves. I preciate your reply n points you made.

 

[begreen]

It's an alcove install in a non-combustible alcove, not a fireplace install. The firebrick is not necessary unless doing it for aesthetic reasons. So far it sounds like you are doing things correctly as long as the entire construction is non-combustible. If two courses of brick are used then the air gap is not necessary. One thing to consider is how well the earth below will support this structure. It's a lot of weight and may settle. If this is a concern then a thin, 1" thick veneer could be used, but it would need the 1", ventilated, air gap behind the backer board.

How will the ceiling be constructed? It will be supporting the weight of the chimney pipe with a ceiling support box.

 

[Anthony09]

It's an alcove install in a non-combustible alcove, not a fireplace install. The firebrick is not necessary unless doing it for aesthetic reasons. So far it sounds like you are doing things correctly as long as the entire construction is non-combustible. If two courses of brick are used then the air gap is not necessary. One thing to consider is how well the earth below will support this structure. It's a lot of weight and may settle. If this is a concern then a thin, 1" thick veneer could be used, but it would need the 1", ventilated, air gap behind the backer board.

How will the ceiling be constructed? It will be supporting the weight of the chimney pipe with a ceiling support box.

Thanks for your reply. It has poured footing in ground under blocks and the stove pipe goes out back which is how mine will differ from picture. Thanks for the info sounds like I’m in good shape

 

[begreen]

Will this connect to a masonry or metal chimney system? What will be the thimble detail for connecting the stove to the chimney? Regardless, keep the horizontal connector as short as possible. The flue gases will slow down a lot in that section.

 

[Anthony09]

Will this connect to a masonry or metal chimney system? What will be the thimble detail for connecting the stove to the chimney? Regardless, keep the horizontal connector as short as possible. The flue gases will slow down a lot in that section.

An old masonry chimney lined with insulated metal liner. It was installed professionally. There is insulated thimble between t snout portion and the double wall stove pipe. It is almost 30 inches n I pitched it to help out. It has 24 ft of vertical above it. I was actually wonderin about that too. The installers are very reputable and thought it would draw fine. Thoughts?

 

[EbS-P]

From what you have said everything seems to be in good shape. Would love to see some pictures!

 

[begreen]

An old masonry chimney lined with insulated metal liner. It was installed professionally. There is insulated thimble between t snout portion and the double wall stove pipe. It is almost 30 inches n I pitched it to help out. It has 24 ft of vertical above it. I was actually wonderin about that too. The installers are very reputable and thought it would draw fine. Thoughts?

24' will help a lot. If this is an exterior chimney, it may be a little balky from a cold start, but after it's warmed up it should draft ok. The insulated liner will certainly help it get warm quicker.

 

[Anthony09]

24' will help a lot. If this is an exterior chimney, it may be a little balky from a cold start, but after it's warmed up it should draft ok. The insulated liner will certainly help it get warm quicker.

Awesome thanks for the reply’s. Once I made up my mind on stove realized there was a lot to it. Easy to get nervous

 

[Anthony09]

Awesome thanks for the reply’s. Once I made up my mind on stove realized there was a lot to it. Easy to get nervous

From what you have said everything seems to be in good shape. Would love to see some pictures!

i will definitely get some soon

 

[Anthony09]

Got top half finished. knockin out break in burns this afternoon. Gotta build shelves over wood boxes next. Thanks for y’all’s advice

 

[begreen]

Fanatastic. It looks better than the example first posted in the thread.

 

[Anthony09]

Fanatastic. It looks better than the example first posted in the thread.

Thanks. We are very happy with it. I was fortunate to find an old buildin from 1880s a couple towns over they were tearin down, n got fire brick and regular brick from it.