VC Encore Overfire and Advice

[junebug1]

I moved into a home a few months ago with a VC Encore and it's about 10 years old. The stovepipe goes up about 15 feet into the ceiling and there is a thermometer on the stovepipe about a foot about the stove. The chimney was cleaned just before I moved in.

I've read through a lot of the postings here and still have some questions.

It took me a while to get used to using the stove and how to use it properly. I FINALLY got to the point where I felt like I was using it correctly and have been loading it with large loads and have been able to keep a consistent temperature in the house of about 74, but sometimes have to open a window. The thermometer on the pipe stays around 300. Only once or twice has it gotten barely into the red zone and then only for a couple of minutes.

So the other morning, there were just a few hot coals and I carefully raked them and then cleaned out the ash drawer. The handle on the drawer seemed a little tight when trying to close but it SEEMED ok. I got the fire going as usual, and once it was going with small stuff, I added a couple of larger logs. I'm using kiln dried wood. The wood flamed up as usual and when the temp got to about 450-500 - just into the red zone, I shut the damper, which is what I usually do and the temp goes down and it burns nicely. Although nothing happened and it kept getting hotter and hotter and I think the temp on the thermometer got to maybe 600 or more. The stove and the stovepipe/chimney are both the dark burgundy color. When the temps got that high, the color of the stovepipe appeared darker. Not knowing what to do, I put a couple of wet paper towels into it, and a sprinkled some water - maybe about 1/2 cup onto the top log. It slowed down a little but I ended up taking out a large log and threw it out into the snow. It finally cooled down and I let it go out until (I think) the next day. I realized after that the ash drawer had NOT been shut tight.

The past couple of days, it seems like not enough air is getting into the stove. It lights fine and gets going - I usually close the doors but not tight so a little air gets in, until it "looks" ready and then add some big pieces, close the doors tight. Now when I've been doing that, it doesn't seem to be burning right and much slower. Usually once there is a big ash bed, all I have to do is put a log in, shut the doors tight and it lights up immediately. Now I need to crack the door a little and I soon as I shut them tight, it slows down more than usual. It's just burning "differently"

So... I'm wondering is it possible something has been damaged? Like what? I can see that the damper is working and opening and closing is still affecting air flow. The temperature control handle seems to be working also.

Thanks!

 

[Kevin Weis]

I would have the stove pipe and chimney inspected. It's possible that enough creosote was in there and when it got hot formed a partial clog in same. This happened to me a few weeks ago. Yes, I have an Encore as well but a newer one.

 

[Woody5506]

I would say to never try dumping water on the fire, you're just gonna cause more problems. Close off all air intakes and the temp will come down.


what kind of thermometer was reading 400-500? I assume stove top? I don't really see those being dangerous stove top temps. Mine cruises at 600. I'm no expert though and maybe my stove just doesn't mind those temps.

 

[Dobish]

it actually sounds to me like maybe there is a change in the wood. Depending on how big your coal bed is will depend on how quickly your wood will ignite. I normally crack the door for a few seconds to get it to light with my encore.

I don't think you damaged the stove with your temps.

As a note, I rarely clean my ash pan. Many of us have found that the stove actually burns for longer with a layer of ash on the bottom of the stove. I just stir mine around a bit.

You have 2 levers on your encore, your primary air control (which is on the right) and your bypass (on the left, to engage the catalyst). I highly recommend getting a thermometer for your catalyst (it will go on the back of the stove. there are a lot of threads about it if you search), and measuring your temps. If you are having trouble with your room getting too hot, then you are not really taking advantage of the stoves ability to engage the catalyst and turn down the primary air (close bypass on left, turn down air on right). This will allow you to basically reburn the smoke before it goes out of the chimney.

 

[Diabel]

We need for information on the stove (model) pipe set up, wood condition. Pictures tell tons.

We will get you burning right!

 

[junebug1]

Thanks for all of your replies. I'll try and address them all here.

Kevin: I'll look into having the chimney inspected. I wondered about creosote, but since I've only been using the stove since October/November wasn't sure if enough would have built up and it was cleaned in September.

Woody5506: I saw another post that said not to put water. Why and what kind of problems would it cause? Other than smoking and steaming. I had closed off all air intakes, but didn't realize at the time that the ash drawer was not shut tight, thus I was having air intake but didn't realize it. The thermometer is on the stove pipe about a foot above the stove. It is a "HomeSaver Stove Thermometer".

Dobish: Funny you mention a change in the wood! I actually just had a wood delivery the day before the incident. So I thought maybe the new wood was not as dry as the old? I ran a test with a piece of the old and a piece of the new with the same results. I'm glad to hear I probably didn't damage the stove. Interesting about the ash pan. It always seemed to me that when it was full it wasn't burning as well, but maybe that's a good thing that it burns slower. I understand about the 2 levers - it took me a while to understand and I turn them both down once it gets going. I do not, however, understand about the catalyst. I thought I read that not all of the stoves have one? Having never used a wood stove before, the concept of how they work took a while to understand.

Diabel: the stove is a VC Encore. The pipe goes out the back and up to the ceiling which is maybe 15-20 feet? I'm primarily burning kiln dried split logs of various sizes that I had delivered. There is a woodshed that has wood in it that was there when I moved in. That wood is seasoned and I mix in a couple of pieces each day to try and slow the burn down. But that entails getting the wood from the shed to the house and I'm not always up to the challenge! (the new wood is stacked in a screened in porch).

I'll post a couple of photos.

 

[junebug1]

 

[Kevin Weis]

My 6" flue chimney plugged up 2.5 months after it was cleaned. So yea it can happen it that period of time. I've found for the cat to function as intended the cat probe should read at least 650 or so.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

When you empty the ash pan make sure you are sweeping all the ash out of the chamber. Ash generally spills over the pan and can accumulate in the back not allowing the door to close properly. How are you testing your wood as well? If there is a change in the burn at the same time as you switching piles this could be your issue. Often kiln dried wood is only in the kiln long enough to kill off the bugs. I don’t know this first hand but have read it here many times by trust worthy members who know much more than myself. Have you gone back to the shed to get a stove load of that wood to see if it burns like you are used to seeing?

 

[RandyBoBandy]

And at 10 years old with no knowledge of prior maintenance I would be replacing some gaskets (ashpan, griddle top, glass, doors). Probably even replace the cat and get a cat probe. Welcome to world of a VC owner. It can be frustrating.

 

[ray milosh]

So you were saying that it is having a hard time getting enough air even when the damper is open? If that’s the case then yes, it’s probably the wood. If, however, it’s having trouble breathing while the damper is closed, there is the possibility that ashes Settled on top of the catalytic combustor ( assuming it is a catalytic stove), or that pieces of the combustor broke when the water cooled it too fast and they are restricting the air flow. You can look at the top of the combustor to see if it is in good condition by putting a mirror through the slot in the back of the stove and looking down at the square honeycomb holes to see if they are open.
From your description, though, My guess is that it is the wood that is different.

 

[Dobish]

Your stove should have a catalyst in it. When it is cold, open up the back doors and there should be a piece that looks like this: Behind that will be your catalyst