vent pipe

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jotul?

Burning Hunk
May 30, 2014
161
western pa
After receiving an install estimate from my local Jotul dealer, I have determined that I will be installing my F600 myself. Does anyone have any preferences on vent pipe?
 
How about a bit of information on your installation: Is it going to be sitting in front of a fireplace with a SS liner going up an existing chimney? Is it going to be a freestanding installation with an exposed flue pipe up to a ceiling box? If it is going up a chimney, is the chimney located inside the house or on an outside wall? Is it going to be a basement installation? etc.
 
My install will be on a gable end outside wall of a two story house with a 5 foot tall attic space. The stove will be on a hearth board or, if I'm feeling ambitious, a masonry hearth that will require me cutting out the floor and pouring concrete in the crawl space underneath. Anyway, my wife wants to see no vent pipe, so my vent will go directly out the rear of the F600 through a wall thimble. I was wondering about the brand of vent pipe I should use and also, my install estimate indicated that the pipe would be 2 inches away from the outside wall, then use a pair of 30 degree angles to get around the eave of the roof. Would a straight shot down the vent to the 90 going into the thimble be a better setup?
 
Once you price all the parts needed for a Tee system, your quote might not be so bad. It's the most expensive way to go, and the least efficient.
You will need a Tee right outside the wall, if it can go straight up from there it would be best. I would cut the overhang and box it in if it was mine. There really is no bad chimney pipe. Some better than others, but they are all tested to the same standard. You want Class A chimney with solid pack insulation, not air cooled pipe.
 
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I'm shopping around using the material list from the installers estimate. I seem to be finding Selkirk pipe for about $2,000 vs. $2500 that the installer quoted. Odd because I bought the F600 from this installer partly because the vent pipe was supposed to be 20% off if I bought the stove from them, with or without their install. Paid $2,700 for the F600. Labor quote was $1800. All that was without the hearth board for $850 - $900. Sound reasonable? The deal isn't final yet so if this sounds outrageous let me know. I really couldn't find a better price for the F600 though. It was their floor model and doesn't have a scratch inside or out. Also, if a T system is a poor system, is there a better way?
 
The labor sounds outrageous! The hearth board should be closer to $500. Good price on the stove though!
Ideally the flue should go straight up and out the roof, but that isn't always possible.
Selkirk is the cheapest chimney you will find, do not expect the hearth store to match their prices.
 
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, if a T system is a poor system, is there a better way?

What webby was referring to as least efficient, was an exterior chimney as opposed to an interior one. You'll lose more heat from the chimney when it is outside. As he has already stated selecting class A chimney with solid packed insulation and not air cooled will be what is best for that type of install.
 
Ok, I understand about the efficiency thing now. Is Selkirk pipe quality or would I be better off to pay more for a different brand? I don't mind spending money but I do require that the money go to a quality product. I also like things that last a very long time, so any opinions are appreciated.
 
All that was without the hearth board for $850 - $900. Sound reasonable?

Not really or are they doing something to your floor other than putting a board on top? See http://www.northlineexpress.com/hearth-pads.html# for prices.

Here you can check for something you like and other dealers in your area:
(broken link removed to http://www.hearthclassics.com/classic_edge_colors.php)
(broken link removed to http://www.americanpanelhearth.com/Product%20Line/default.htm)

(Hmm, that stove shop sounds a bit like a car dealership. Giving the appearance of a cheap buy but then getting you with a lot of additional charges. ;hm)
 
The more I shop around, the more it seems that I'll be purchasing my F600 from them and nothing else.
 
the price on the pipe doesnt sound to out of line but the labor seems really high and the price for a stove board is high also. Does that $2000 include the tee the wall pass thru all the brackets ect? Because all that adds up really quickly
 
After some review I found that the installers estimate includes a $290 elbow kit for the pair of 30 degree elbows and 12 inch long pipe that goes between them that they wanted to use to clear the eave. My shopping hasn't included that because I don't want to use any elbows other than the T coming out of the thimble. That accounts for some of the discrepancy. Other than that, my shopping list was the one provided by them. I guess I'm missing that 20% off of chimney pipe that was supposed to come with the stove purchase somewhere else. Oh well, thanks to Grisu for the hearth board links. Much better prices than I've found elsewhere. I'm not trying to come off as a cheapskate but the whole purpose of this project is to help keep heating oil use to a minimum. If I would pay the stove shop for everything they are quoting me, I'd have an $8000 wood stove on my hands. I paid $9,950 seven years ago for an outdoor wood boiler that heated our old house completely on its own for $600 worth of coal every winter. Those numbers just don't add up.
 
Hello Jotul?- Those prices sound a bit high for here in CT. eastern. How tall is the chimney?? 20 feet of Ventis class A pipe is about 1600 here locally, the stove is around 2650 (good price you got there, wonderful stove too), the labor here would be around 1000-1200 to install and the stove board depending on what you get could be upwards to 500-600 dollars. I don't think your deal is totally outrageous, but I don't know what your area will tolerate?? It seems you got a good price for the stove at least. Get some good dry wood ready, it'll be warm in your house this year...
 
Thanks stovelark, I am very happy with the cost of the stove especially as it included the rear heat shield and sales tax. I guess that could be why I'm confused by the labor estimate and material cost that I was given. The numbers that you just posted are exactly in line with what I was expecting. Lucky I have a great resource here at hearth.com to use to my advantage.

(Hmm, that stove shop sounds a bit like a car dealership. Giving the appearance of a cheap buy but then getting you with a lot of additional charges. )

Thanks to all!
 
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