Washers in re-burn tubes

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Sbi provides this same firebox to a few manufacturers, Osborn, Enerzone, Hearthstone to name a few that came to mind. I’ve installed Several of all three versions. It’s hard to tell from the pics, but the washers look larger than the tubes to me. This is the first I’ve heard of this revision, no dealer service notifications have been sent out that I’m aware of. I’m really surprised they are able to offer a part that alters it’s combustion system after it’s been tested.

Maybe it's like the old high altitude jets on carburetors. Only if you ask.
 
Sbi provides this same firebox to a few manufacturers, Osborn, Enerzone, Hearthstone to name a few that came to mind. I’ve installed Several of all three versions. It’s hard to tell from the pics, but the washers look larger than the tubes to me. This is the first I’ve heard of this revision, no dealer service notifications have been sent out that I’m aware of. I’m really surprised they are able to offer a part that alters it’s combustion system after it’s been tested.
I am surprised as well. Regency had to retest with their restrictor plate for the 2600
 
I tried 1 washer on each end of the 1st tube only. Did not affect the burn times at all. Only difference was didnt get as hot (which I kind of suspected) and air wash for glass didnt work as it did before. So tomorrow I will b taking them out. Sbi and salesman where I bought it from said only way to get burn times longer than 2.5 (including the coaling period) is to use 5x5 pieces of wood north and south. So I'm kinda at the end of the road with different things to try. By the way I have used larger pieces of wood before with no difference. Did not try 5x5 north to south. All my splits are around 16-18 inches
 

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I tried 1 washer on each end of the 1st tube only. Did not affect the burn times at all. Only difference was didnt get as hot (which I kind of suspected) and air wash for glass didnt work as it did before. So tomorrow I will b taking them out. Sbi and salesman where I bought it from said only way to get burn times longer than 2.5 (including the coaling period) is to use 5x5 pieces of wood north and south. So I'm kinda at the end of the road with different things to try. By the way I have used larger pieces of wood before with no difference. Did not try 5x5 north to south. All my splits are around 16-18 inches

You can only get 2.5 hours burn including coaling? Something doesn't seem right with that. My 2.4 cu. ft SBI freestander can easily put off good heat overnight, with a good coal bed to light off of in the morning.
 
You can only get 2.5 hours burn including coaling? Something doesn't seem right with that. My 2.4 cu. ft SBI freestander can easily put off good heat overnight, with a good coal bed to light off of in the morning.
I know that's what everybody else in the world is getting except for me. And sbi and salesman aren't gonna do anything about it. I actually had the salesman at my house to witness the burn times. He was there for 3 hours. And loaded it twice. I'm using splits up to 4 inches maybe a little small but still should get better burn times. Also I did have some bigger splits that I've tried before. And same results
 
Maybe it's like the old high altitude jets on carburetors. Only if you ask.
I’ve installed and service over a dozen of these units, never heard anything bad at all about them. This is surprising to me.
 
I know that's what everybody else in the world is getting except for me. And sbi and salesman aren't gonna do anything about it. I actually had the salesman at my house to witness the burn times. He was there for 3 hours. And loaded it twice. I'm using splits up to 4 inches maybe a little small but still should get better burn times. Also I did have some bigger splits that I've tried before. And same results
Do you have a super strong draft?
 
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I tried 1 washer on each end of the 1st tube only. Did not affect the burn times at all. Only difference was didnt get as hot (which I kind of suspected) and air wash for glass didnt work as it did before. So tomorrow I will b taking them out. Sbi and salesman where I bought it from said only way to get burn times longer than 2.5 (including the coaling period) is to use 5x5 pieces of wood north and south. So I'm kinda at the end of the road with different things to try. By the way I have used larger pieces of wood before with no difference. Did not try 5x5 north to south. All my splits are around 16-18 inches
Bummer. I think I'd try installing them all if I was getting such short burn times, at least to try it out. They might need to all be in at the same time to get the slow down you are looking for, and by only putting one in, you might increase the flow to the other three and kill your airwash.

You said you only tried putting them in the first tube? I'm assuming you were referring to the one closest to the glass, as it affected the airwash? Why not put them all in, then if you don't like what you are seeing, start removing them, one tube at a time, starting with the front one.

I suspect the draft is the biggest issue here, I have a similar strong draft that makes the burn time shorter. But not quite as short as yours.

I saw a recent post about installing a key damper in the appliance connector to slow the draft on an insert. Have you considered that? In my case, I think it would be the best option. But a pain, as I'll have to pull the insert.
 
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I tried 1 washer on each end of the 1st tube only. Did not affect the burn times at all. Only difference was didnt get as hot (which I kind of suspected) and air wash for glass didnt work as it did before. So tomorrow I will b taking them out. Sbi and salesman where I bought it from said only way to get burn times longer than 2.5 (including the coaling period) is to use 5x5 pieces of wood north and south. So I'm kinda at the end of the road with different things to try. By the way I have used larger pieces of wood before with no difference. Did not try 5x5 north to south. All my splits are around 16-18 inches
What holds the washer in place? It looks like it may be magnetic, but as the tube is stainless, that shouldn't be right.
Perhaps there's a little recess in the tube at the ends that the washer seats into?

My tubes are different, so the washer couldn't fit the same way.
 
Are the washers to address too much draft? Interesting way rather then installing a damper which is a no can do for an insert.

Washer pics please.
Not easy, but installing a damper with an insert can be done. A recent thread described the process.
 
I agree, all four tubes should be tried otherwise the draft will pull more through the ones without the washers. My SBI Century 2.4 firebox burns 6+ hours easy...
 
Putting a damper is probably out and putting a damper on fresh air intake is out as well. unless I tear apart all the stone work. Which if I do that I'm pulling the whole unit out and getting rid of it. I will try all tubes tonight after work as suggested. The washer just fit in by friction.
 

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Putting a damper is probably out and putting a damper on fresh air intake is out as well. unless I tear apart all the stone work. Which if I do that I'm pulling the whole unit out and getting rid of it. I will try all tubes tonight after work as suggested. The washer just fit in by friction.

Is that a normal sized load for you? Seems like a lot of space left in the firebox.
 
I tried 1 washer on each end of the 1st tube only. Did not affect the burn times at all. Only difference was didnt get as hot (which I kind of suspected) and air wash for glass didnt work as it did before. So tomorrow I will b taking them out. Sbi and salesman where I bought it from said only way to get burn times longer than 2.5 (including the coaling period) is to use 5x5 pieces of wood north and south. So I'm kinda at the end of the road with different things to try. By the way I have used larger pieces of wood before with no difference. Did not try 5x5 north to south. All my splits are around 16-18 inches
I don't have the same stove for take it for what's it worth but my stove gets dirty glass if I load too close to it. It does burn off once it gets into a secondary burn and turns into fly ash that is stuck to the window. I would be putting them in all the tubes and try it.
 
What holds the washer in place? It looks like it may be magnetic, but as the tube is stainless, that shouldn't be right.
Perhaps there's a little recess in the tube at the ends that the washer seats into?

My tubes are different, so the washer couldn't fit the same way.
Must be an "interference" fit. I'm amazed at how small the orifice is. Would be unfortunate to drop the washer into the bowels of the secondary system.
 
I don't have the same stove for take it for what's it worth but my stove gets dirty glass if I load too close to it. It does burn off once it gets into a secondary burn and turns into fly ash that is stuck to the window. I would be putting them in all the tubes and try it.

My stove rarely gets dark glass, but what seems to be a coating of fine ash. My firewood isn't quite dry enough so I mix it with bio bricks. The coating is easy to clean with a damp paper towel, but I've always wondered if there's a way to prevent it.
 
Must be an "interference" fit. I'm amazed at how small the orifice is. Would be unfortunate to drop the washer into the bowels of the secondary system.

I was thinking the same thing about it falling out. Seems like a pretty good fit though.

What also surprises me is how much of a reduction the washers make. It looks like at least a 75% reduction in the size of the hole. I wonder how they settles on that size.

My stove rarely gets dark glass, but what seems to be a coating of fine ash. My firewood isn't quite dry enough so I mix it with bio bricks. The coating is easy to clean with a damp paper towel, but I've always wondered if there's a way to prevent it.

Same here. Just a fine coating of white ash, easy to clean but like you wish I could prevent it all together.
 
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Is it a symptom of over powerful draft?

I don't think so. My chimney is barely over the minimum recommended by the manufacturer (~17ft) and It's not extremely cold here (20-30 degrees F at night).
 
I don't think so. My chimney is barely over the minimum recommended by the manufacturer (~17ft) and It's not extremely cold here (20-30 degrees F at night).

Just as I figured, it's always wet wood.