What one should consider before purchasing a used wood stove. If you have not already read my Primer for purchasing a new stove , then please do so. It deals with your existing chimney and things you should consider before any stove purchase
Quick update in wood stove history and innovations. In the late 60’s to late 70’s most stoves that were built did not have a regulated or tested. Meaning no UL approvals till about 1980. Era approved stoves apply to all stoves manufactured after 1990. EPA certification was to regulate pollution and efficiency. Every EPA stove had to meet 63% efficiency. Those 70’s stoves were un-regularated and many could not obtain even 20% efficiency under best conditions, even brand new. In anticipation of complying to the upcoming EPA certification, the late 80 stoves became more efficient
This information becomes critical to avoiding purchasing a used wood stove that cannot be legally installed.
No permits for installation can be given for stoves without UL listing. In many states only approved EPA stoves can be installed. To find out what is required call your inspections dept. All woodstove installations require permitting. And many insurance companies require ULLlisting and a certificate of inspections from you local inspections office. In MA carbon monoxide detectors are also required as part of the installation.
With that said all 70’s and earlier stoves have been eliminated. Probably for good reason, they are inefficient and more than 30 years old. Many companies went out of business, as they did not comply with the Epa standards. In USA, a five year parts support policy exist after that line of production ends, There are no parts available for stoves that old. These stoves probably need a complete rebuild again 30 years old factors in. The rebuild could cost more that the bargain you just bought.
There are cast iron box stoves that are not UL listed they cannot be installed in habitable living spaces. Some have deceiving claims tested to UL standards but do not carry the UL label
So what to look for? What questions one should ask and tell tale signs of abused stoves?
Questions
How was the stove used? How old is it? Do you have the manual? When was the last maintenance done, and what was done. If a cat stove, when was the cat replaced? Why are you selling? Ask if the stove has been over fired?
Target brand name stoves, where the manufacture is still in business. Confirm that the stove is UL labeled. Look for the testing agency and EPA certification. All stoves should have an attached label.
What to look for
Remember heat can change the properties of metal. One has to look for metal fatigue. First tell tale sign: look around the stove If you see a whitish color half way up the stove on the sides or back that is an indication of metal fatigue. Rust is another sign of metal fatigue. There is a difference between light surface rust and flaking scale type. Take particular notice if heavy rust or scale like rust exist Open up the doors look around are the fire brick cracked or crumbling? A few small hair line cracks are normal, large cracks or bricks powder zing are signs of abuse from over firing Look at the metal, is there warp age or cracks? More sign of abuse from over firing. Over firing accelerates metal fatigue. IF you see any of the above evidence of metal fatigue or over firing, there is no need for further examination. It all looks; ok I would use the light bulb test. I would place a 150-watt light bulb in the firebox and close the door. Walk around the stove looking at all seams, gaskets, and look for light leaks, the light also can highlight a crack you may previously missed Look under the stove in back. If you see light coming out the seams, that’s an indication of needing a total re- build. Light around gaskets means new gasketing is required..(The least expensive fix) With the light removed, employ the dollar bill test. Meaning place a dollar bill between the gasketed closed doors If you can pull it out easily without resistance the gaskets are gone you have to move the dollar bill around the entire door not just one location
At this point if all checks out, you have done your best to determine if you have found a decent wood stove.. Another consideration is to size the stove to the area you are trying to heat. Hopefully you have read my other recent post considering locations and venting issues. (Primers to Newbies) If you are hiring a qualified installer, request that he inspect the stove before installation Your life could depend on it. Finally if all goes well you local inspector will approve you stove and installation... One final note about miss information
According to NFPA 211 Chapert 9 Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances
9-2.4 Solid fuel-burning appliances shall not be installed in any residential garage
I hope I have helped many purchasers from make a costly or potentially deadly mistake.
My qualifications:, National Certified BOCA Local Building Inspector and Mechanical Inspector. and 30 years of wood burning experience
Quick update in wood stove history and innovations. In the late 60’s to late 70’s most stoves that were built did not have a regulated or tested. Meaning no UL approvals till about 1980. Era approved stoves apply to all stoves manufactured after 1990. EPA certification was to regulate pollution and efficiency. Every EPA stove had to meet 63% efficiency. Those 70’s stoves were un-regularated and many could not obtain even 20% efficiency under best conditions, even brand new. In anticipation of complying to the upcoming EPA certification, the late 80 stoves became more efficient
This information becomes critical to avoiding purchasing a used wood stove that cannot be legally installed.
No permits for installation can be given for stoves without UL listing. In many states only approved EPA stoves can be installed. To find out what is required call your inspections dept. All woodstove installations require permitting. And many insurance companies require ULLlisting and a certificate of inspections from you local inspections office. In MA carbon monoxide detectors are also required as part of the installation.
With that said all 70’s and earlier stoves have been eliminated. Probably for good reason, they are inefficient and more than 30 years old. Many companies went out of business, as they did not comply with the Epa standards. In USA, a five year parts support policy exist after that line of production ends, There are no parts available for stoves that old. These stoves probably need a complete rebuild again 30 years old factors in. The rebuild could cost more that the bargain you just bought.
There are cast iron box stoves that are not UL listed they cannot be installed in habitable living spaces. Some have deceiving claims tested to UL standards but do not carry the UL label
So what to look for? What questions one should ask and tell tale signs of abused stoves?
Questions
How was the stove used? How old is it? Do you have the manual? When was the last maintenance done, and what was done. If a cat stove, when was the cat replaced? Why are you selling? Ask if the stove has been over fired?
Target brand name stoves, where the manufacture is still in business. Confirm that the stove is UL labeled. Look for the testing agency and EPA certification. All stoves should have an attached label.
What to look for
Remember heat can change the properties of metal. One has to look for metal fatigue. First tell tale sign: look around the stove If you see a whitish color half way up the stove on the sides or back that is an indication of metal fatigue. Rust is another sign of metal fatigue. There is a difference between light surface rust and flaking scale type. Take particular notice if heavy rust or scale like rust exist Open up the doors look around are the fire brick cracked or crumbling? A few small hair line cracks are normal, large cracks or bricks powder zing are signs of abuse from over firing Look at the metal, is there warp age or cracks? More sign of abuse from over firing. Over firing accelerates metal fatigue. IF you see any of the above evidence of metal fatigue or over firing, there is no need for further examination. It all looks; ok I would use the light bulb test. I would place a 150-watt light bulb in the firebox and close the door. Walk around the stove looking at all seams, gaskets, and look for light leaks, the light also can highlight a crack you may previously missed Look under the stove in back. If you see light coming out the seams, that’s an indication of needing a total re- build. Light around gaskets means new gasketing is required..(The least expensive fix) With the light removed, employ the dollar bill test. Meaning place a dollar bill between the gasketed closed doors If you can pull it out easily without resistance the gaskets are gone you have to move the dollar bill around the entire door not just one location
At this point if all checks out, you have done your best to determine if you have found a decent wood stove.. Another consideration is to size the stove to the area you are trying to heat. Hopefully you have read my other recent post considering locations and venting issues. (Primers to Newbies) If you are hiring a qualified installer, request that he inspect the stove before installation Your life could depend on it. Finally if all goes well you local inspector will approve you stove and installation... One final note about miss information
According to NFPA 211 Chapert 9 Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances
9-2.4 Solid fuel-burning appliances shall not be installed in any residential garage
I hope I have helped many purchasers from make a costly or potentially deadly mistake.
My qualifications:, National Certified BOCA Local Building Inspector and Mechanical Inspector. and 30 years of wood burning experience
it's a amazeing what this world is coming too 
