Hi all, new to this site but not stoves. My wife wants a new stove and for me to get rid of the OSLO!! oh no help... Here are the complaint's: 1) The fresh air intake that is located in the back seems to starve the fire vs. opening a slide in the front of other stoves we have had, we constantly leave the side door cracked to really keep the fire going ( I know that burns more wood and we loose heat). There were 3 holes feeding the fire from this intake right inside when you open the front door. I drilled two more holes trying to increase air, made no difference to speak of. 2) When the fire goes completely out the box gets really cold and that becomes an issue getting it started again. Getting puff backs is common ( I crack a window which helps) 3) I have hydro air system(forced hot air & ac) that draws air from the main level. the intake is 16' right in front of the stove. So we have gotten black soot drawn into the ducts and blown through out the house. (not the stoves fault) we try very hard to shut the heat to the rest of the house so this is avoided. Obviously that sucks when you need to keep other parts of the house warm. BUT even with the door closed I believe we get soot sucked out of the intake? sound crazy? Now here is the set up: off the top of the stove vertical 24" to the first 90 then travels slightly uphill for another 19" where it changes to Dura vent (or =) goes into the thimble and out to a "T" (total horizontal distance about 36") . The "t" is there so I can pull the bottom off and clean the riser complete from the top. Distance from the "T" up to the Vac u stack is 16' . The ENTIRE riser is Dura vent and enclosed to outside air in an insulated 24 x 24 chimney enclosure. Just Trying to keep the chimney warmer and avoid issues. We get a constant NW breeze so I change the normal cap to a Vac U Stack which helped 75% on blow backs. I could not go straight up inside due to truss dead center and didn't want to look at an offset in a cathedral ceiling. Your thoughts? What would you do to improve the situation?
What would you do to improve the situation?
- Thread starter Outdoor
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Listen carefully, my misguided son. I am an old time wood burner, have been burning wood stoves since 1972 and have had 7 wood stoves.
I just got an Oslo 6 weeks ago and it is the best wood stove money can buy. You are nuts to think that you ought to ditch the Oslo.
How high is the pipe in total?
I know that the Oslo does not like two 90s, none of the high performance stoves do.
I just got an Oslo 6 weeks ago and it is the best wood stove money can buy. You are nuts to think that you ought to ditch the Oslo.
How high is the pipe in total?
I know that the Oslo does not like two 90s, none of the high performance stoves do.
Three 90º turns in the smoke path is killing draft. It's reducing the 18' height to an effective height more like 9 ft. Can those two interior 90s be changed out for a pair of 45s on a diagonal? If not you may need to add quite a bit of height to the chimney to strengthen draft. Pics are always helpful.
If you are having to leave a door open to keep the fire going something is not working correctly. Either you have wet wood, insufficient draft or some sort of blockage in the stove or chimney. If you can figure out the problem and solve it the F500 should work like a charm. If you replace the stove but don't correct the problem you'll probably have the same results.
1. Wood moisture can be tested with very inexpensive meters. Aim for 20% on a fresh split.
2. Testing the strength of your draft is a little more difficult, but one easy way is to temporarily extend the top of the chimney with some cheap piping and see if it makes a difference.
3. Are your intakes clogged up? You didn't mention the primary intake control. Is it working correctly? It's pretty easy to check on the Oslo by removing the doghouse that is near the front of the fire box and held in place by two bolts. Is there some other sort of blockage in the stove or chimney?
I think you should look into these issues before thinking about getting another stove, although I fully understand why your wife is unhappy with the current setup. It ain't workin' right!
1. Wood moisture can be tested with very inexpensive meters. Aim for 20% on a fresh split.
2. Testing the strength of your draft is a little more difficult, but one easy way is to temporarily extend the top of the chimney with some cheap piping and see if it makes a difference.
3. Are your intakes clogged up? You didn't mention the primary intake control. Is it working correctly? It's pretty easy to check on the Oslo by removing the doghouse that is near the front of the fire box and held in place by two bolts. Is there some other sort of blockage in the stove or chimney?
I think you should look into these issues before thinking about getting another stove, although I fully understand why your wife is unhappy with the current setup. It ain't workin' right!
Step one, sort out the chimney it sounds like a mess. Step two next time leave the drill alone, the stove was designed with the correct amount of air coming in to burn correctly.
The straight up shot with a offset would work best, you'd get used to looking at it in no time. Replacing the 90s with 45s where possible will help.
When was the wood split and stacked?
We see these posts every year it's usually the chimney or wood, very rare for the stove to be the problem.
The straight up shot with a offset would work best, you'd get used to looking at it in no time. Replacing the 90s with 45s where possible will help.
When was the wood split and stacked?
We see these posts every year it's usually the chimney or wood, very rare for the stove to be the problem.
Your poor stove is choking on it's chimney. Like Begreen said, Three 90's is a NO NO 
especially with such a short stack.
I would take rdust's advice and consider going straight up and using an offset.
You are gonna be major bummed if you switch out a great stove like the Olso and end up with the same problems again
.
There are active draft inducers that might help, but I would not want one in my chimney - it's just a bandaid.
Here is one example: http://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-Auto-Draft-Stove-Draft-Problems/dp/B0000AXFP1#customerReviews
especially with such a short stack.I would take rdust's advice and consider going straight up and using an offset.
You are gonna be major bummed if you switch out a great stove like the Olso and end up with the same problems again
.There are active draft inducers that might help, but I would not want one in my chimney - it's just a bandaid.
Here is one example: http://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-Auto-Draft-Stove-Draft-Problems/dp/B0000AXFP1#customerReviews
Last edited:
Do the following:
1. Add six feet to your flue height. Eight more feet would not be overkill. 18' is about the minimum allowed if it went straight up. One 90 is a draft killer and you have three.
2. Remove the 90's and replace with two 45's. It will look fine.
3. Get a wood moisture meter and use only wood with less than 20% moisture or less when measured at a fresh split. No, 21 or 22% is not 'good enough".
4. Make or buy a supply of kindling to start and restart your fires unless you have a really good bed of hot coals.
5. If you still get back drafts after doing the above, add an outside air kit.
This is an EPA stove - and like all EPA stoves it behaves differently and makes more demands than the old smoke dragons. The trade-off is less creosote and more heat output on less wood. Buying another brand of EPA stove will not solve your problem.
1. Add six feet to your flue height. Eight more feet would not be overkill. 18' is about the minimum allowed if it went straight up. One 90 is a draft killer and you have three.
2. Remove the 90's and replace with two 45's. It will look fine.
3. Get a wood moisture meter and use only wood with less than 20% moisture or less when measured at a fresh split. No, 21 or 22% is not 'good enough".
4. Make or buy a supply of kindling to start and restart your fires unless you have a really good bed of hot coals.
5. If you still get back drafts after doing the above, add an outside air kit.
This is an EPA stove - and like all EPA stoves it behaves differently and makes more demands than the old smoke dragons. The trade-off is less creosote and more heat output on less wood. Buying another brand of EPA stove will not solve your problem.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
I agree with the others try and take out as many of those 90's as possible chimneys are just like plumbing the more bends and direction changes the worse off you are. Your poor Oslo is choking been around stoves fireplaces and inserts all my life the Oslo is one of the best stoves in my opinion. The reason I have one. If you can get that chimney to vent better you will love that heat machine. Test your wood to the dryer the better, they don't like wet wood at all. Good luck hope you can get it solved it will work out trust these people they are extremely helpful.
Everyone has mentioned the 90's killing draft but throw in the operation of the house heating system drawing air and the Oslo doesn't stand a chance. As someone mentioned an oak would help a bunch.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Good advice above. I always recommend checking joints for tightness and be sure the cap on any T sections is secure. Loose fits at these joints can let air in the flue which hurts in two ways..1) that air is not drawn through the stove, so you loose some draft. 2) it's cool air, so further hurts draft.
Also curious it sounds like the main air intake for your HVAC is close to the stove...possibly in the same room. If that is the case AND the entrance to the room is relatively small...like a single door...then the HVAC might be creating a local negative pressure in that room and fighting the stove. The obvious test here is to see if the stove acts any differently when the HVAC fan is not running. If not then it might be a non-issue. Though if the stove acts up when the fan comes on, then you've found at least part of the problem.
Also curious it sounds like the main air intake for your HVAC is close to the stove...possibly in the same room. If that is the case AND the entrance to the room is relatively small...like a single door...then the HVAC might be creating a local negative pressure in that room and fighting the stove. The obvious test here is to see if the stove acts any differently when the HVAC fan is not running. If not then it might be a non-issue. Though if the stove acts up when the fan comes on, then you've found at least part of the problem.
>was check the secondary intake but could find nothing in the manual! I will go back thru these threads and find out about how to check this issue unless someone would like to reiterate?. I knew the 90 & T would make it rough but also wanted the stone look and mantel. I thought going up the distance would overcome the 90's (wrong).![[Hearth.com] What would you do to improve the situation?](/talk/data/attachments/169/169889-ba71131d4bf0d70e3fcfdb1672896d57.jpg?hash=piQFf5Wces)
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Well it is a good looking layout, too bad it doesn't work well. You know, you can cut in a box in those trusses and make that pipe go straight up. I know you have a lot of time and cost in that chimney, but if extending the pipe doesn't fix it I don't know what else to do.
Heftiger
Feeling the Heat
Random thoughts . . .
Not to be a smart @$$ . . . but with the Jotul Oslo you can technically have three 90 degrees and still have the chimney facing the right way . . . Jotul's adapter allows you to either go up as you have it configured or you can out straight out the back (in which case you would have three 90 degrees.) That said, that obviously isn't your issue.
RevDocJim said it pretty well . . . by listing out the three most common issues: unseasoned wood, a draft issue or a blockage.
Unseasoned wood: You say your wood has been seasoned at least a year. I do not doubt you . . . but I would like to know more . . . was this wood cut, split and stacked for a year . . . or was it cut down, left in tree length or bucked up and then split a few months later . . . how was the wood stacked -- inside a shed, top covered, etc.? Sometimes there is a little more than just time when it comes to seasoning wood . . . but that said, I don't think that's the issue here.
Draft issue: Other folks may correct me if I'm wrong, but that chimney may be a bit on the short side for the stove to really draft well . . . the fact that you're getting soot in the home and have had back puffing leads me to think the issue here is more related to the draft since you shouldn't have any soot in the home. A relatively easy way to test the draft (as mentioned) is to temporarily add a length of stove pipe to the outside chimney and see if that improves things.
As Corey mentioned . . . seeing how the stove performs with the home's main heating system off may also be telling as this could potentially be affecting draft.
Blockage: As others have mentioned there is a chance that this may be leading to some of your problems. It may be worth checking to insure the baffle is in place and the insulation blanket above the baffle has not shifted or moved to where it is partially blocking the flue . . . there have been a few folks who have had this issue, especially in moving the woodstove inside or after it had work done to it, such as cleaning or repairs. A quick 5-minute job to remove the air control doghouse and make sure the air control lever is working correctly and hasn't jumped the track or anything may also narrow down the problems.
Not to be a smart @$$ . . . but with the Jotul Oslo you can technically have three 90 degrees and still have the chimney facing the right way . . . Jotul's adapter allows you to either go up as you have it configured or you can out straight out the back (in which case you would have three 90 degrees.) That said, that obviously isn't your issue.
RevDocJim said it pretty well . . . by listing out the three most common issues: unseasoned wood, a draft issue or a blockage.
Unseasoned wood: You say your wood has been seasoned at least a year. I do not doubt you . . . but I would like to know more . . . was this wood cut, split and stacked for a year . . . or was it cut down, left in tree length or bucked up and then split a few months later . . . how was the wood stacked -- inside a shed, top covered, etc.? Sometimes there is a little more than just time when it comes to seasoning wood . . . but that said, I don't think that's the issue here.
Draft issue: Other folks may correct me if I'm wrong, but that chimney may be a bit on the short side for the stove to really draft well . . . the fact that you're getting soot in the home and have had back puffing leads me to think the issue here is more related to the draft since you shouldn't have any soot in the home. A relatively easy way to test the draft (as mentioned) is to temporarily add a length of stove pipe to the outside chimney and see if that improves things.
As Corey mentioned . . . seeing how the stove performs with the home's main heating system off may also be telling as this could potentially be affecting draft.
Blockage: As others have mentioned there is a chance that this may be leading to some of your problems. It may be worth checking to insure the baffle is in place and the insulation blanket above the baffle has not shifted or moved to where it is partially blocking the flue . . . there have been a few folks who have had this issue, especially in moving the woodstove inside or after it had work done to it, such as cleaning or repairs. A quick 5-minute job to remove the air control doghouse and make sure the air control lever is working correctly and hasn't jumped the track or anything may also narrow down the problems.
I think I have read on here that each 90 reduces the effective chimney height by 3 feet. This would put you at around 10 feet. The Oslo needs a minimum of 15 feet of chimney. Hope you can work it out since it is a nice looking stove and hearth setup.
Smoked
Feeling the Heat
Beautiful stove! Is your fresh air intake connected to outside? Is that an option? If cracking a window helps and you consider your house tight and very well insulated, an outside air kit might help.
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Try this modification. Run the pipe straight out the back of the Oslo, not up vertically. You will need to go through the back wall about 3 feet lower and extend the exterior pipe, but, this would get rid of one of your 90s.
I think two 45s might help but no guarantee there. Most stove makers want 3' straight up before any turns, and you said you've got only 2' there. As was mentioned I'd also try putting a temporary section of cheap pipe on top to see if that helps. Looks like it's on the back of the house, so may not even be noticeable. Also, where is the prevailing wind coming from...over the main ridge? Do you notice any difference when it's windy, versus calm? The Oslo wants more draft than some other stoves to run well, pretty good chance that is where your problem lies.
Last edited:
Well read this whole thing, big items all ready mentioned Draft, and Improperly cured / dried / seasoned fuel. Question what are your outside temps? 40-50 
? that makes for poor drafting all by itself. One more thing flue exit needs to be higher by 3 ft, than any thing in a 10 ft radius, Vac-u-stack not withstanding. That"s a rough rule of thumb- modifications sometimes are required as the roof line or adjacent structures including trees can cause down drafts in the vicinity of the flue Out side air kit ( OAK) - You very likely need to set this up if not done already BUT the intake needs to be on the leeward side of the prevailing winds, additionally if this ends up being a long run you will need to up size the the line from the normal (I think 3" ) to 4"-6" depending on the run length ( just like on the HE furnace longer the runs require greater diameter for intake and exhaust) and yes, twists and turns reduce the effective diameter all so.
With everything above and this, short of a defective part in the stove itself, every base has been covered. Best wishes on your investigation.
? that makes for poor drafting all by itself. One more thing flue exit needs to be higher by 3 ft, than any thing in a 10 ft radius, Vac-u-stack not withstanding. That"s a rough rule of thumb- modifications sometimes are required as the roof line or adjacent structures including trees can cause down drafts in the vicinity of the flue Out side air kit ( OAK) - You very likely need to set this up if not done already BUT the intake needs to be on the leeward side of the prevailing winds, additionally if this ends up being a long run you will need to up size the the line from the normal (I think 3" ) to 4"-6" depending on the run length ( just like on the HE furnace longer the runs require greater diameter for intake and exhaust) and yes, twists and turns reduce the effective diameter all so.With everything above and this, short of a defective part in the stove itself, every base has been covered. Best wishes on your investigation.
I understood it was supposed to be on the windward side to maintain positive pressure at the inlet...
- Status
Similar threads
