Which replacement for a Dovre Cape Cod

[Osm3um]

Sorry for the long post, but here it goes:

We own a trilevel home: Lowest level is 12x17 (204 sq ft), two stairs up is the kitchen (no wall between) 13x17,(221 sq ft) and the dining room on the same level as the kitchen at 12x12 (144 sqft) and attached front room at 17x17(289 sq ft with cathedral ceiling (our primary sitting room)). There is an upstairs but did not measure. total for entire house is 1900 sq ft. Thermostat is in the front room, stove is in the lowest level in the furthest corner from the front room. You get the idea, typical trilevel layout.

It came with the "Cape Cod" manufactured in 1999. Problem we are having is that it seems the "cape cod" is oversized. The lowest room gets very hot so we tend to run it at a lower temperature, which causes more creosote, etc. It also blows smoke out like crazy when the door is opened (probably a pipe issue which we will be fixing, it has about 6' of 8" going into 6") It is rated: Heat Output Range 11,000 to 43,000 btu/hr EPA, Firebox capacity 2.4 cubic Ft.

It will be used daily 6-8 months of the year and there is a ceiling fan above the stove area.

We have been eyeing the Lopi republic 1750 and 1250 as they have a more "modern look". My wife is concerned that if we get the 1750 we will have to run it too cool which will cause more creosote. She really likes the Scan units, but they are kinda spendy....

So, after all of that info, which I am certain most of you can grasp, any thought on a replacement would be great!

Thanks,
Bob

 

[begreen]

Sounds like there are a couple issues here. This should be a nice stove for you. Can you describe the flue in detail or better yet, post a picture or two? I am also wondering if the stove is in a negative pressure zone. If so, a new stove could have the same issues unless the problem is remedied with an outside air kit or the source of the negative pressure is taken care of.

For the heat issue, have you tried taking a regular table fan, located on the kitchen and blowing cool air from the next level towards the hot stove room? Somehow this seems like it is just a matter of stove location or circulation.

 

[BrotherBart]

Yeah if that stove is overheating the place then another one would too. Time to look at the negative pressure issue and also quit packing it full and heat to the need.

 

[Osm3um]

Yeah if that stove is overheating the place then another one would too. Time to look at the negative pressure issue and also quit packing it full and heat to the need.

Thanks you for your help,

But would it be better to run the 1250 at a higher temp or a 1750 at a lower temp? And if I ran the 1250 at a higher temp would it end up heating the room the same as a larger stove at a lower temp?

Thanks
Bob

 

[Osm3um]

Sounds like there are a couple issues here. This should be a nice stove for you. Can you describe the flue in detail or better yet, post a picture or two? I am also wondering if the stove is in a negative pressure zone. If so, a new stove could have the same issues unless the problem is remedied with an outside air kit or the source of the negative pressure is taken care of.

For the heat issue, have you tried taking a regular table fan, located on the kitchen and blowing cool air from the next level towards the hot stove room? Somehow this seems like it is just a matter of stove location or circulation.

It is difficult to describe, I will try and take photos.

The stove has a 6" opening. The vertical from the stove is an 8" pipe going straight up for about 36 inches. It takes a 90 degree turn to a horizontal for 16". It takes another 90 degree to the wall and actually drops by an inch or two. It goes into the wall and vertical for 25+ feet. Our sweep says the pipe in the wall is 6".

From what I gather, having multiple angles is not a great idea and then having the 8" section is silly (at best).

As for negative pressure, the home was built in 1979 so I doubt it is very tight, but can;t prove it.

I would be terribly interested in reading some white papers on this sort of thing.

Thanks
Bob

 

[begreen]

Sounds like there are a couple issues here. This should be a nice stove for you. Can you describe the flue in detail or better yet, post a picture or two? I am also wondering if the stove is in a negative pressure zone. If so, a new stove could have the same issues unless the problem is remedied with an outside air kit or the source of the negative pressure is taken care of.

For the heat issue, have you tried taking a regular table fan, located on the kitchen and blowing cool air from the next level towards the hot stove room? Somehow this seems like it is just a matter of stove location or circulation.

It is difficult to describe, I will try and take photos.

The stove has a 6" opening. The vertical from the stove is an 8" pipe going straight up for about 36 inches. It takes a 90 degree turn to a horizontal for 16". It takes another 90 degree to the wall and actually drops by an inch or two. It goes into the wall and vertical for 25+ feet. Our sweep says the pipe in the wall is 6".

From what I gather, having multiple angles is not a great idea and then having the 8" section is silly (at best).

As for negative pressure, the home was built in 1979 so I doubt it is very tight, but can;t prove it.

I would be terribly interested in reading some white papers on this sort of thing.

Thanks
Bob

Bingo. Fixing the problem sounds easy. The connector pipe is installed incorrectly. Smoke does not like to go downhill. Get rid of all of the 8"pipe and eliminate the second 90. I'd have to see a picture of the current setup, but it sounds like you can come off of the stove with a 45 elbow, slope uphill and pointed toward the wall thimble at a 45 deg angle from the stove, then to a pair of 45s to get into the thimble.

With this change you'll think you just got a new stove. That should help the stove draft much better and provide a nicer experience burning smaller fires.

After reading the description of the current flue setup, it could be that you do not have an issue with negative pressure. But if you are interested, here's some links about how chimneys work. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/chimneys_an_unexact_science/
And another. Read all the articles listed on the left side of the page:
http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/chimneys.htm

 

[Osm3um]

[quote author="BeGreen" date="1283017985"Bingo. Fixing the problem sounds easy....[/quote]

I am always amazed by the help found on boards. Although I shouldn't be as I have been share information on tech boards for years. But I digress.....

Attached are some photos and thank you for your help.
Bob

 

[begreen]

Nice stove! That helps a lot. Your description was very good. By the dark glass, I can see it is having problems. It also looks like the stove is not burning hot enough. The stove will want to burn only dry, well seasoned wood and it's better to burn a smaller hot fire than a big load of wood, choked down and smoldering. Try putting the thermometer on the stove top for a bit. The stove will burn cleanest in the 400-650 °F range.

For the flue, I would come straight up with 6" to the 90, but angle it directly toward the thimble. Then a short connector heading uphill at least 1/4" per ft. to a 45 deg elbow in the thimble. What kind of temps have you seen on the flue pipe?

 

[Osm3um]

Nice stove! That helps a lot. Your description was very good. By the dark glass, I can see it is having problems. It also looks like the stove is not burning hot enough. The stove will want to burn only dry, well seasoned wood and it's better to burn a smaller hot fire than a big load of wood, choked down and smoldering. Try putting the thermometer on the stove top for a bit. The stove will burn cleanest in the 400-650 °F range.

For the flue, I would come straight up with 6" to the 90, but angle it directly toward the thimble. Then a short connector heading uphill at least 1/4" per ft. to a 45 deg elbow in the thimble. What kind of temps have you seen on the flue pipe?

It has been running between 250 and 300. Not sure why it won't get hotter, maybe the problem with the exhaust?
Bob

 

[begreen]

Is that the flue or stovetop temp? It could be the exhaust, though most often it's the wood.

 

[Osm3um]

Is that the flue or stovetop temp? It could be the exhaust, though most often it's the wood.

Sorry, that is one foot above the stove on the pipe. At that point the stove gets a secondary burn, which is VERY fun to watch, and very little smoke exists the chimney.

After this thread, I am planning on taking the pipe off, taking it to a stove shop so we can come up with a new pipe with less turns.

One other issue I have found is that the stove shows a clearance necessary which is greater than what we currently have so moving it isn't an option. Not to mention a new one sounds like fun! I am enjoying this hobby: chopping wood, watching the burn, feeling the heat...I even started buying chunks of old stoves at garage sales!

Bob
Gig Harbor

 

[begreen]

Is that a solid brick wall behind the stove (full sized brick)? If yes, technically that was probably done to reduce clearances by a third as long as the stove maker allows for reduced clearances. This should be stated in the manual and on the plate on the back of the stove. What is required according to Dovre and what is the actual distance from the corner of the stove to the wall?

If you are definitely set on replacing the stove, no need to buy pipe now, wait until you have the new stove and measure for that. Clean up the Dovre nicely including the glass. It should still get a fair price.