Whitfield Advantage ii room blower going off and on....HELP!!!

clincoln007 Posted By clincoln007, Nov 30, 2017 at 8:27 PM

  1. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    Hi,

    I have a Whitfield Advantage ii and every time the auger turns on the room blower goes off? Has anyone ever heard of this happening before? Any ideas how to fix it? HELP MY BASEMENTS FREEZING!!!!!!
     
  2. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    which controls do you have?And,has the current sensing relay been removed?
     
  3. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    I have the manual controls 1 switch a button and 2 dials. I havent done anything, it was working great. End of last year I replaced the exaust blower. Al of a sudden it started doing this today. Where is the current sensing relay?

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  4. bob bare

    bob bare
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    The current sensing relay should have been removed,long time ago,but yours may still have it,they sometimes caused problems.Maybe this can help. http://hearthtools.com/parts/whitfield_wire_diagrams.pdf
     
  5. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    Thanks!!! I'll check it when I get home tomorrow. Its running but the damn blower keeps going off and on sometimes it stays on but slows down but most of the time it just turns off then on.....Im going to keep it runni g to ight so I dont freeze to death but will check firat thing tomorrow. Is there anythi g else that can cause this?

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  6. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    exhaust (combustion) or room blower (convection)? old motor? the motor could be overheating and shutting itself off, cools a bit turns back on and repeats
     
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  7. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    Convection, the combustion motor is less then a year old. The convection motor is turning off every time the auger light comes on...I thought the same thing you did until i realized.the lattern with the light

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  8. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Bobs your man with the Whitfield. he showed me the old wiring diag. and the relay hes refering to.
     
  9. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    No there are 4 or 5 people here that know the Whitfields way better than I ever will,just appears not much help out there.
     
  10. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    I appreciate the help!! Im going to work on it when I get home. Our bedroom is down where the stove is and it was freezing last night so I left it on even with the fan going on and off it was keeping it warm.

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  11. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    I dont see that relay i've attached a photo. Also even with the auger off it still cuts off and on but only on low. If i turn it to high the motor doesnt move at all im going to try and upload a video.

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  12. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Heres a picture of the inside and a video of the motor cycling on an off and what happens when i turn it on high...any ideas?
     

    Attached Files:

  13. bob bare

    bob bare
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    i see a picture,no video,but,got a few minutes,will find my notes
     
  14. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    The video keeps saying its too large

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  15. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Basically in the video when the blowers on low it runs then rattles around and stops then runs and it will do that every 6 or 7 seconds on off and whenever the auger light comes on when its on if i put the room blower on high it rattles and hums but doesnt spin at all. Could it be the motor? That wouldnt explain the perfectly timed on and off though....i can email you the videos.if you want

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  16. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Should be no "rattle",kinda sounds like blower is kaput,or is full fo dog hair,critters.You can remove it,and wire it directly to wall outlet,as a test,as it is 115 volt.Do it carefully
     
  17. bob bare

    bob bare
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    nah,skip the vids
     
  18. Stovensen

    Stovensen
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    clincoln007, my first car ( a 1969 Volvo Amazon sedan ) had an electrical issue, which I believe is of exactly the same nature as the one causing your auger to modulate your convection blower. When the indicator lights were turned on ( no matter what direction ) the red tail light would get dimmed every time the indicator light was blinking. The reason for this was simple: A bad ground connection to the chassis would limit the current and a voltage drop would build up over the bad connection, whenever the indicator light was blinking.

    The most likely explanation to your "modulated blowers" would be a badly worn low limit switch, since this carries neutral to the entire stove, when stove has passed the warm up procedure. A worn low limit switch will act like a current limiting resistor. A voltage drop will rise over the low limit switch, when the load increases. This will make the switch hot, and as it gets hotter, the resistance will increase along with the voltage drop. Eventually the convection blower could almost stall.
    If you have an ac-voltmeter, and some experience in measuring on equipment carrying line voltage, a simple measurement of the voltage drop across the low limit switch will tell us exactly what happens when the auger is "modulating" the convection blower: If the voltage drop increases significantly, when the auger is on, the low limit switch has to be faulty.
    Take care, 120 Volt/60 Hz can be lethal!
    The simple logical sequence of aforementioned warm up procedure can help us further to determine that the low limit switch is the culprit. You see, the low limit switch is bypassed by an on board relay ( controlled by a one shot 30 min. timer ) allowing the stove to warm up.
    The low limit switch is also called a POF switch ( Proof Of Fire switch )
    So one simple question: Does the convection blower run ok in the first 30 minutes? ( Stove must be all cold, when you make this test ). If it does, the low limit switch is most likely due to replacement.
    Oxydation in the Molex plug, where the main supply ( both phase and neutral ) is connected to the control board, could also cause this issue. Unplugging/plugging the Molex plug a handful of times is often enough to clean the contacting surfaces of the metal. If you have some contact cleaner to spray inside the Molex, this will help deoxidizing the metal pins in the plug.

    Good luck and take care. Keep us posted.
     
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  19. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    It does it right when the stove is turned on I tried jumping the pof disk it didnt make a difference. Its so weird the molex looks clean i took ot off and put it back on nothing seems to work. Im going to check the voltages this weekend. Ive been using it because its the only heat we have downatairs but its driving me crazy

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  20. Stovensen

    Stovensen
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    Good, you're on the right track trying to locate the weak link ( links? ) in the power chain. Our Whitfield stoves are getting old, so several places could be worn or corroded.

    The terminal strip should also be inspected closely, as the common neutral is shared from terminal no. 6 on the strip.
    A thick layer of dirt and dust has a tendency to hold humidity and if the dirt contains a slight amount of salts, it could even become conductive in the worst cases ( ask me how I know? ). In this situation 230 Volt is four times more dangerous than 115 Volt, though. Your pic and the wiring diagram:
    eksempel på meget snavset terminal blok på Advantage.jpg

    A bad solder on the circuit board could be in need for a reflow?

    Is this similar to your board?
    advantageII_blackfaced_2525.jpg

    Good luck and take care. Keep us posted
     
  21. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Yes thats almost identical to my control panel 0dc893a4926b46d449d5255bb687dfcb.jpg

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  22. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    Ok so I checked the voltage from the control board 120 i checked voltage to the pins the motor plugs into get 120 as soon as i plug the motor back in or another motor in it drops to 80 volts and almost stops? It only drops when the motors plugged in when the auger turns on no motor plugged in no voltage drop. Any ideas?

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  23. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Well that's different than you said before,np,but how low does it drop when auger kicks in?Not that it really matters,if you are trying 2 different motors,the motor control circuit on your board has a problem.Just my opinion.
     
  24. clincoln007

    clincoln007
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    Oct 11, 2014
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    Yea me and my brither in law spent a few hours checking everything tonight after work. It goes from 120 to 80 whenever the auger turns on. Weird thing is it doesnt drop at all when the motors not plugges in. No idea how it knows when it is. Wheres the blower control on the board is it the knob?

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  25. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    A/C motors controlled this way,you may not see a voltage change,if not plugged in.I think an item on your circuit board itself is the problem,not one of the controls.There are places that repair them,as, I do not think a replacement is avalible for yours.
     

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