Stovensen
Minister of Fire
Bug's, first you need to scrape away all the conductive silver paint and don't use this again. It is only for emergency repair of low power circuitry like audio preamps, mixers etc. It is not approved for medium to high power circuits carrying line voltage, where the components may get hot. Soldering is necessary here.
An X-Acto knife is not an ideal scraping tool for delicate operations like this: The blade should be slightly curved and the long handle is in the way, when working in narrow spaces.
Many years ago I found the ideal scraper tool at the local pharmacy. They are razor sharp and with a piece of tape wrapped around the far end, you have perfect grip on it:
Fabrication of the anchor plate:
a single square cut from an experimental board like this will be perfect as anchor plate for the triac on the opposite side of the components.
You can see the measure on the vernier caliper: 0.293" . The modular hole-distance should be the same as the board and triac.
There should be space for it between the adjacent traces. The area should now be cleaned well with some acetone to remove the green protective paint and the square glued to the board. The new triac can be used as a guide to align the holes.
Now let us look at the component side:
This sketch is intended as a kind of "x-ray view" through the board in order to get the idea of what my "double-to-single sided conversion" is about. You see where to drill with a 1mm drill bit from the anchor plate side and the traces that must be connected through the holes. It should be possible to make at least four holes without hitting/touching anything unwanted. Through these four holes you now have contact to the other side. The copper wires should be fairly thick ( 1 mm will be perfect ). They must be strong enough to serve both as conductors and anchor wires for the anchor plate on the other side. My drawing skills are lousy, I know, but I hope you get my idea?
This way you could convert the mounting area from double sided to single sided = much easier soldering. And the triac will be mounted safely.
An X-Acto knife is not an ideal scraping tool for delicate operations like this: The blade should be slightly curved and the long handle is in the way, when working in narrow spaces.
Many years ago I found the ideal scraper tool at the local pharmacy. They are razor sharp and with a piece of tape wrapped around the far end, you have perfect grip on it:
Fabrication of the anchor plate:
a single square cut from an experimental board like this will be perfect as anchor plate for the triac on the opposite side of the components.
You can see the measure on the vernier caliper: 0.293" . The modular hole-distance should be the same as the board and triac.
There should be space for it between the adjacent traces. The area should now be cleaned well with some acetone to remove the green protective paint and the square glued to the board. The new triac can be used as a guide to align the holes.
Now let us look at the component side:
This sketch is intended as a kind of "x-ray view" through the board in order to get the idea of what my "double-to-single sided conversion" is about. You see where to drill with a 1mm drill bit from the anchor plate side and the traces that must be connected through the holes. It should be possible to make at least four holes without hitting/touching anything unwanted. Through these four holes you now have contact to the other side. The copper wires should be fairly thick ( 1 mm will be perfect ). They must be strong enough to serve both as conductors and anchor wires for the anchor plate on the other side. My drawing skills are lousy, I know, but I hope you get my idea?
This way you could convert the mounting area from double sided to single sided = much easier soldering. And the triac will be mounted safely.
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