Will all new wood burning stoves be catalytic after May 1, 2020?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I suspect non cat woodstove manufacturers can still make some small improvements in wood combustion. The low hanging fruit has definitely been picked. Some stove builders are using the word “Hybrid” to describe their wood burners. I don’t think they are hybrid but what about a stove with secondary air and a catalyst. That would be hybrid. In that situation a catalyst might last a lot longer. But....I’m no expert on catalysts.

It's probably just the opposite.

Catalysts are not (by definition) consumed when used. The top killer of cats (other than abuse, including thermal shock, mechanical shock, and poisoning) is probably substrate flattening. That happens when the substrate gets over 1600°. Getting your cat's input off of a secondary burn system makes substrate flattening way more likely.

I'm also not an expert, but that just sounds like a poor idea to me.
 
I suspect non cat woodstove manufacturers can still make some small improvements in wood combustion. The low hanging fruit has definitely been picked. Some stove builders are using the word “Hybrid” to describe their wood burners. I don’t think they are hybrid but what about a stove with secondary air and a catalyst. That would be hybrid. In that situation a catalyst might last a lot longer. But....I’m no expert on catalysts.
Hybrid stoves are exactly what you described secondary air and a cat. And no it doesn't make cats last longer infact if done wrong it can seriously reduce cat life
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mech e
It's probably just the opposite.

Catalysts are not (by definition) consumed when used. The top killer of cats (other than abuse, including thermal shock, mechanical shock, and poisoning) is probably substrate flattening. That happens when the substrate gets over 1600°. Getting your cat's input off of a secondary burn system makes substrate flattening way more likely.

I'm also not an expert, but that just sounds like a poor idea to me.
It can work quite well if done correctly or as I said above they can eat cats in a hurry if done wrong
 
It can work quite well if done correctly or as I said above they can eat cats in a hurry if done wrong
When I was looking at new stoves to replace my old Osburn, I looked at one manufacturer's hybrid cat. The cat was located just below the stove pipe collar. The combustion heat generated by the cat is sent right up the stove pipe. That was a no-go for me.
 
Having a jacketed stove, I have asked myself this very question. I think it is possible that the jacket does raise the firebox temperature. This I believe is due to the jacket reducing radiation to the room from the firebox surfaces where the jacket is present. Assuming there is a decent gap and venting between the jacket and firebox, convection to the air should be about the same.

Adding an air mover will significantly increase the transfer of heat from the stove surface to the air, decreasing the firebox temperature.
Anyone think we may start seeing more automated stoves, adjusting incoming air, flue temps?
 
Anyone think we may start seeing more automated stoves, adjusting incoming air, flue temps?
I'm surprised more manufacturers haven't copied BKs thermostat idea.
 
When I was looking at new stoves to replace my old Osburn, I looked at one manufacturer's hybrid cat. The cat was located just below the stove pipe collar. The combustion heat generated by the cat is sent right up the stove pipe. That was a no-go for me.

hearthstone? just used to clean up the exhaust. i wonder if the carbon footprint of mining the precious metals for the cat, manufacturing it, shipping it, etc are offset by the marginal emission gains.
 
I'm surprised more manufacturers haven't copied BKs thermostat idea.
For the record it wasn't blazekings idea. But yes I am surprised more cat stoves don't use thermostatic controls
 
Yes, VC stoves had thermostatic control in the late 70s and some Ashleys before that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
If heat can't get out of the stove as fast, more of it is going to leave via the flue. You can swing open the trivets and stove top temp will drop as the heat leaves it faster.
I haven't looked to see if there is a corresponding drop in flue temps when I open the trivets, but I bet there is. You'd be able to see it better than I would, with your digital flue probe..
The problem with that reasoning is most modern stoves are jacketed...Jacketed stoves are just more convective than radiant.
I think my reasoning stands; If jacketing keeps the box hotter, more heat is going up the flue, unless that heat is moved into the room by a blower. I just mentioned it as an aside to begreen's post about his cast iron jacket evening out the temp swing vs. a radiant stove. I wasn't saying that jacketing was somehow bad, only that it can impact the delivery of heat to the room vs. up the flue, unless a blower is used to counter that. I figured I would throw that out there since this has turned into just another cat vs. non-cat thread. ;)
You saw an extreme example of the effect of jacketing with the Princess, where they also have jackets inside the box, and the stove on high can't match the heat delivered to the room by your Regency.
I actually have a bit of jacketing on my stove, a rear heat shield I added to keep radiation from being absorbed by my exterior masonry fireplace and chimney. There's no blower though, so I think some amount of the heat kept in the box is going up the flue.
How much heat is actually lost up the stack due to jacketing with no blower, I don't know. But as I said, I can swing open the trivets on the T5 and see the stove top temp drop 50 degrees. And the trivets aren't even solid, they are more of a grill, but still hold that much heat in the box. I will get the blower for my SIL's T5 soon..
1579295829118.png
For the record it wasn't blazekings idea. But yes I am surprised more cat stoves don't use thermostatic controls
Yep, my BIL's basement stove, a '79 VC Resolute III, has a thermostat.
The main advantage I can see is that when the stove is in the coaling stage, the thermo will open and fire up the coals to keep the output up a bit, if no one is home to manually do that when needed. On my stove, I don't see a huge difference when opening the air on the coals, but it is appreciable. It will keep the stove top up around 300 for several hours, as opposed to the stove top drifting down to 250, then 200, over a longer period of hours.
When firing up the coal bed in my stove, the stove top holds at 300, and the sides also warm up more from the radiation directly hitting them. In a BK with internal shielding, maybe the warming of the side walls wouldn't be as pronounced, I don't know.
In average weather, even with my leaky house and suspect insulation, I don't often open the air on the coals since room temp remains within a couple degrees regardless.
Bottom line, grated ash-handling and other features were way higher on my list of priorities than having a thermostat was. It strikes me as just another red herring, like the chimney-clogging, no-heat-output low burn.
 
I think my reasoning stands; If jacketing keeps the box hotter, more heat is going up the flue, unless that heat is moved into the room by a blower. I just mentioned it as an aside to begreen's post about his cast iron jacket evening out the temp swing vs. a radiant stove. I wasn't saying that jacketing was somehow bad, only that it can impact the delivery of heat to the room vs. up the flue, unless a blower is used to counter that. I figured I would throw that out there since this has turned into just another cat vs. non-cat thread. ;)
You saw an extreme example of the effect of jacketing with the Princess, where they also have jackets inside the box, and the stove on high can't match the heat delivered to the room by your Regency.
I actually have a bit of jacketing on my stove, a rear heat shield I added to keep radiation from being absorbed by my exterior masonry fireplace and chimney. There's no blower though, so I think some amount of the heat kept in the box is going up the flue.
How much heat is actually lost up the stack due to jacketing with no blower, I don't know. But as I said, I can swing open the trivets on the T5 and see the stove top temp drop 50 degrees. And the trivets aren't even solid, they are more of a grill, but still hold that much heat in the box. I will get the blower for my SIL's T5 soon..
View attachment 255397
Yep, my BIL's basement stove, a '79 VC Resolute III, has a thermostat.
The main advantage I can see is that when the stove is in the coaling stage, the thermo will open and fire up the coals to keep the output up a bit, if no one is home to manually do that when needed. On my stove, I don't see a huge difference when opening the air on the coals, but it is appreciable. It will keep the stove top up around 300 for several hours, as opposed to the stove top drifting down to 250, then 200, over a longer period of hours.
When firing up the coal bed in my stove, the stove top holds at 300, and the sides also warm up more from the radiation directly hitting them. In a BK with internal shielding, maybe the warming of the side walls wouldn't be as pronounced, I don't know.
In average weather, even with my leaky house and suspect insulation, I don't often open the air on the coals since room temp remains within a couple degrees regardless.
Bottom line, grated ash-handling and other features were way higher on my list of priorities than having a thermostat was. It strikes me as just another red herring, like the chimney-clogging, no-heat-output low burn.
So why do jacketed modern stoves easily run well with such lower flue temps? Do you think maybe the stove designers and engineers are purposely keeping firebox temps up in certain areas directing it exactly where they want it. Making for more complete combustion and lower clearances. And they then extract heat in other areas so you aren't wasting heat up the chimney.

And for the record the lower heatoutput of the princess has nothing to do with the sheilding. It is due to lower firebox temps meaning less surface area for heating.
 
If heat can't get out of the stove as fast, more of it is going to leave via the flue. You can swing open the trivets and stove top temp will drop as the heat leaves it faster.
I haven't looked to see if there is a corresponding drop in flue temps when I open the trivets, but I bet there is. You'd be able to see it better than I would, with your digital flue probe..
That's trying to apply soapstone logic to a steel stove. The heat radiates quite intensely off the steel body of the stove and the fact that the cast iron jacket an inch away absorbs that radiant heat does not slow down it at all. The firebox is tightly insulated to keep the fire as hot as possible. Once our stove is up to temp the stove top temp and digital probe temp are close to equal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woody5506
That's trying to apply soapstone logic to a steel stove. The heat radiates quite intensely off the steel body of the stove and the fact that the cast iron jacket an inch away absorbs that radiant heat does not slow down it at all. The firebox is tightly insulated to keep the fire as hot as possible. Once our stove is up to temp the stove top temp and digital probe temp are close to equal.
Couple of comments here. Thermal radiation heat transfer occurs between surfaces. The temperature difference between the surfaces is one factor that determines the amount of thermal radiation absorbed by the surface. The larger the temperature difference, the more thermal radiation is absorbed. The cast iron or steel jacket will be much hotter than the walls in the house, thereby decreasing thermal radiation to the jacket.

Additionally, there is a correction factor called absorptivity, the ability of the surface to absorb available thermal radiation (as a percentage). Color is a big factor here with dark gray being about 50% and black about 90%. The jacket is a thermal radiation resistor.

This, of course, is all by design. It allows me to put my stove into a nice alcove with reduced clearances to combustibles.
 
So why do jacketed modern stoves easily run well with such lower flue temps? Do you think maybe the stove designers and engineers are purposely keeping firebox temps up in certain areas directing it exactly where they want it. Making for more complete combustion and lower clearances. And they then extract heat in other areas so you aren't wasting heat up the chimney.
Yes, they concentrate heat in the top of the firebox, so that the tubes or baffle can burn the smoke better. They do that with firebricks in the box. I don't think that they are trying to concentrate heat in the stove with the shields. If they were, why would they put blowers on stoves? The shields are to direct blower air along the sides and top of the stove to extract heat from the box and distribute it into the room, not concentrate heat in the box.
And for the record the lower heatoutput of the princess has nothing to do with the sheilding. It is due to lower firebox temps meaning less surface area for heating.
I thought you said that when you ran both stoves on high, the Regency was able to raise room temp more quickly than the Princess? Both fireboxes had to be plenty hot, with flame burning in both. Granted, with the tubes burning the Regency box was probably quite a bit hotter, as was the top of the stove where secondary flame exits, as opposed to the top of the Princess box which is hot near the cat but not as hot as you get away from where the cat is.
I don't know if you ever measured, but I'd bet that the sides of the Regency were quite a bit hotter than the sides of the Princess as well. I'd think they would have to be, with the additional secondary flame radiating, and the sides of the Princess shielded from flame radiation by the internal baffles.
That's trying to apply soapstone logic to a steel stove. The heat radiates quite intensely off the steel body of the stove and the fact that the cast iron jacket an inch away absorbs that radiant heat does not slow down it at all. The firebox is tightly insulated to keep the fire as hot as possible. Once our stove is up to temp the stove top temp and digital probe temp are close to equal.
I don't even understand soapstone logic..coefficients of heat transfer and all that jazz.
I however don't believe that all the radiation is absorbed by the cast iron, as you seem to imply..some of it is reflected back to the box. Not as much as with my rear heat shield with its smooth, shiny surface, but some of it nonetheless. My heat shield is barely warm..much cooler than the cast iron jacket on the T5.
My theory is, more heat in the box=more heat up the flue. As I said, you can easily test whether this is true; Just open the trivets when the stove is cruising and see if the flue temp falls, as the stove top does.
Thermal radiation heat transfer occurs between surfaces. The temperature difference between the surfaces is one factor that determines the amount of thermal radiation absorbed by the surface. The larger the temperature difference, the more thermal radiation is absorbed...there is a correction factor called absorptivity, the ability of the surface to absorb available thermal radiation (as a percentage). Color is a big factor here with dark gray being about 50% and black about 90%. The jacket is a thermal radiation resistor.
That's what I'm saying, the cast iron jacket isn't absorbing all of the radiation, some is reflected back to the stove. And you also point out that radiation transfer is less once the jacket is heated up, which makes sense..the jacket is radiating as well, back at the stove.
 
My theory is, more heat in the box=more heat up the flue. As I said, you can easily test whether this is true; Just open the trivets when the stove is cruising and see if the flue temp falls, as the stove top does.
I'll wait for some proof of the hypothesis.
 
Yes, they concentrate heat in the top of the firebox, so that the tubes or baffle can burn the smoke better. They do that with firebricks in the box. I don't think that they are trying to concentrate heat in the stove with the shields. If they were, why would they put blowers on stoves? The shields are to direct blower air along the sides and top of the stove to extract heat from the box and distribute it into the room, not concentrate heat in the box.
So which is it? Does the jacket raise temps in the firebox or not? I am confused what your theory is now.

And no I never measured the sides but regency uses vermiculite brick bk doesn't do I doubt there was that much difference there. But the heat off the glass was higher a d the hot spot on top was much bigger
 
So which is it? Does the jacket raise temps in the firebox or not? I am confused what your theory is now.
I would say yes, the jackets reflect radiation back to the stove, increasing firebox temperature unless the blower is on, stripping that heat off the box.
the heat off the glass was higher a d the hot spot on top was much bigger
On the Regency, I assume? And with both stoves cranked up, trying to recover room temp?
 
I would say yes, the jackets reflect radiation back to the stove, increasing firebox temperature unless the blower is on, stripping that heat off the box.
On the Regency, I assume? And with both stoves cranked up, trying to recover room temp?
Yes the regency put out more heat
 
I would say yes, the jackets reflect radiation back to the stove, increasing firebox temperature unless the blower is on, stripping that heat off the box.
That doesn't explain why the unjacketed Drolet Austral has similar probe temps to jacketed stoves.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
That doesn't explain why the unjacketed Drolet Austral has similar probe temps to jacketed stoves.
Pointing out the Austral probe temps gave me an idea. I looked at the Drolet specs for the Myriad II and the Legend II. Both have identical firebox sizes and appear to be the same stove except the Legend has steel side jackets. Both come with a blower, but the forced air path does not include the side shield air gaps on the Legend. Both stoves are rated the same at 90K BTU output.
 
I suspect non cat woodstove manufacturers can still make some small improvements in wood combustion. The low hanging fruit has definitely been picked. Some stove builders are using the word “Hybrid” to describe their wood burners. I don’t think they are hybrid but what about a stove with secondary air and a catalyst. That would be hybrid. In that situation a catalyst might last a lot longer. But....I’m no expert on catalysts.
So we made the very first "hybrid" wood stove in 1983. It had secondary air delivered to the firebox separately from the air supplied to the combustor. Our experience was the stove did not burn any cleaner, but did increase production costs. (Read more expensive retail pricing as well)

So if you look at the most current list of EPA certified heaters that meet Step 2 (correctly terminology is 2020 compliant), the cleanest are not necessarily "hybrid". Neither are the most efficient units "hybrid". There are most certainly some "hybrid" units in both the area of clean burning and efficient, but not the leaders. So with that said, our learning curve from 1983 is still in effect.

I suspect there are many changes coming in the future. Two weeks ago I met, along with a couple of other folks from industry, with senior EPA and state regulators. The goal is at some point to have a FRM (Federal Reference Method) to test wood stoves. It will be a complicated topic and take a few years to refine, but in the end, industry will have a new test method. Then stoves will have to be engineered to deal with those changes. I suspect 2023-2024 before the method is formalized. Of course there are many forces at play, including who is in the White House at the time, research funding etc.
 
So what does damage the combustor is over plating. Burning items that should not be burned, ink heavy paper, boards with nails, pressure treated lumber etc, when burned release chemicals and metals. These, in quantity lay on top of the precious metals and do not allow the smoke to be exposed to the effect of the precious metals. Some can be removed with the extensive cleaning procedures that include distilled water and vinegar.

As for the bimetallic thermostat...well we did not invent it, but we refined the technology in wood stoves. VC, Ashley and others purchased generic springs off the shelf. My dear friend that founded a major stove company said he use to buy they from Blaze King Canada! He drove across the border and bought them, hoping we would never learn of it.

The springs we use are ours. We buy massive rolls of the raw material. Each model has a spring that is cut to a specific length. It is then placed into a jig and a prescribed number of revolutions are added (or portions of a revolution depending upon model), then each spring is baked at a specific temperature for a specific period of time...again this varies depending upon the model. Go ahead a try figuring that out. There's a reason we don't allow just anyone in the thermostat room.