Wood burning fireplace reface frame question

[mnemonik24]

Hello everyone!

I'm planning on putting a stone around our wood burning fireplace that has a gas insert.
I decided to add a bit of a 3D look by building a 2x4 frame in front of it (since fireplace is flushed with the wall).

3/4" quartz ledger stone will be placed on top of the cement board. Cement board around the fireplace frame is sealed with Rutland 500°RTV High Heat Silicone. Bottom of the fireplace box is approximately 7" from the sub floor.

Question: am I ok by having 2x4 frame covered in Durock/stone around the fireplace, especially below the fireplace opening (see second picture)? I'm honestly worrying now if that was a good idea...

Thanks!

 

[bholler]

Hello everyone!

I'm planning on putting a stone around our wood burning fireplace that has a gas insert.
I decided to add a bit of a 3D look by building a 2x4 frame in front of it (since fireplace is flushed with the wall).

3/4" quartz ledger stone will be placed on top of the cement board. Cement board around the fireplace frame is sealed with Rutland 500°RTV High Heat Silicone. Bottom of the fireplace box is approximately 7" from the sub floor.

Question: am I ok by having 2x4 frame covered in Durock/stone around the fireplace, especially below the fireplace opening (see second picture)? I'm honestly worrying now if that was a good idea...

Thanks!

No you can't have wood there. What type of fireplace is this? Do you have before pics

 

[mnemonik24]

No you can't have wood there. What type of fireplace is this? Do you have before pics

It's a wood burning fireplace with gas insert. Here are the pictures from before and frame:

 

[bholler]

Ok find out what model the fireplace is then look up the manual. It will give you the clearance requirements for that fireplace. Then get the manual for the insert. Go with the largest requirements and that is what you need.

 

[mnemonik24]

Ok find out what model the fireplace is then look up the manual. It will give you the clearance requirements for that fireplace. Then get the manual for the insert. Go with the largest requirements and that is what you need.

BeforvI built the frame I talked to the fireplace store people and was told as long as I use cement board and stone on top of the frame it is considered a non combastibe surface. I’m confused...

 

[bholler]

BeforvI built the frame I talked to the fireplace store people and was told as long as I use cement board and stone on top of the frame it is considered a non combastibe surface. I’m confused...

You talked to the wrong people that is completely false

 

[mnemonik24]

You talked to the wrong people that is completely false

I’m about to have a heart attack...

 

[bholler]

I’m about to have a heart attack...

Look up the manuals they will tell you what is required

 

[mnemonik24]

Look up the manuals they will tell you what is required

Label says model KR-43 but I can’t find a manual for it.

Assuming I’ll find the specs, what can you recommend on fixing what I have built so far? I can’t believe this is happening to me...

 

[bholler]

Label says model KR-43 but I can’t find a manual for it.

Assuming I’ll find the specs, what can you recommend on fixing what I have built so far? I can’t believe this is happening to me...

I don't know you need to meet the specs of both the fireplace and insert. You should have had all of this info before starting any work.

 

[bholler]

Is it a superior fireplace? I think thats who makes kr43

 

[HomeinPA]

Label says model KR-43 but I can’t find a manual for it.

Assuming I’ll find the specs, what can you recommend on fixing what I have built so far? I can’t believe this is happening to me...

Remove the durock and replace the framing by studding it out with metal studs then reapply the durock. That's the easy, off the cuff answer but before I'd do anything I'd follow bholler's instructions and find the manual and get the clearances for both appliances.

 

[HomeinPA]

I'd also check your instructions for the combustible hearth extension - the area in front of the fireplace. There should probably be some type of sheet metal or something noncombustible that slides under the firebox and then out to the front of the extension to prevent embers from falling down there and starting a fire.

 

[mnemonik24]

Remove the durock and replace the framing by studding it out with metal studs then reapply the durock. That's the easy, off the cuff answer but before I'd do anything I'd follow bholler's instructions and find the manual and get the clearances for both appliances.

The entire frame or only around the clearances?

 

[mnemonik24]

Is it a superior fireplace? I think thats who makes kr43

Could be, on the bottom of the label there are 3 letters: SFC

 

[MAD MARK]

to prevent embers from falling down there and starting a fire.

It's a GAS insert like he stated 2 times. If he has embers falling out, he has bigger issues

 

[mnemonik24]

Am I ok by replacing this part of the frame with metal studs, provided the rest of the wood frame will satisfy the clearences?

 

[bholler]

It's a GAS insert like he stated 2 times. If he has embers falling out, he has bigger issues

It is a gas insert going into a woodburning fireplace it needs to be done to woodburning standards

 

[bholler]

Am I ok by replacing this part of the frame with metal studs, provided the rest of the wood frame will satisfy the clearences?

Find the manuals and see what is required before doing anything at all

 

[mnemonik24]

Find the manuals and see what is required before doing anything at all

After taling with various support guys for this fireplace the Clearances from the fireplace opening are: 12” on top, 6” on the sides and bottom and 20” in front.

Can metal studs be attached to wood studs?

 

[MAD MARK]

After taling with various support guys for this fireplace the Clearances from the fireplace opening are: 12” on top, 6” on the sides and bottom and 20” in front.

Can metal studs be attached to wood studs?

Yes they can.

Are you asking if that improves clearances? Then yes, it will not be counted against as a "combustible". You would them measure "through" the metal stud until you hit a combustible.

So if you are asking if putting them onto the framing already there helps, no it wont.

 

[HomeinPA]

Am I ok by replacing this part of the frame with metal studs, provided the rest of the wood frame will satisfy the clearences?

I would replace the cripples above the lower header. Actually, I'd take a reciprocating saw and cut everything from the bottom of the upper header down to the floor off leaving the outside studs and frame it back in with metal. You've really overbuilt what you've done, which isn't bad, just seemingly unnecessary unless I'm missing something. Overbuilt is always better than underbuilt.....that's not really a word is it?

 

[Woody Stover]

underbuilt.....that's not really a word is it?

No, but it could be a hyphenated word. Luckily, we don't have to follow code when installing words.

 

[mnemonik24]

I would replace the cripples above the lower header. Actually, I'd take a reciprocating saw and cut everything from the bottom of the upper header down to the floor off leaving the outside studs and frame it back in with metal. You've really overbuilt what you've done, which isn't bad, just seemingly unnecessary unless I'm missing something. Overbuilt is always better than underbuilt.....that's not really a word is it?

I definitelly overbuilt it - my first 2x4 frame...
Thanks for the advice on the frame. This is what I ended up last night with (still have to cut the bottom part). Will start building metal frame within today:

 

[bholler]

I definitelly overbuilt it - my first 2x4 frame...
Thanks for the advice on the frame. This is what I ended up last night with (still have to cut the bottom part). Will start building metal frame within today:

Did you find the manual and confirm that your revised plan meets the requirements?