Wood burning insert in NC, is it worth it?

[LakeFall]

Looks nice. Must be an initial burn?
Did the stove even get into the active zone with that tiny load?
What happened to the loading door handle? Looks rather bent. Optical illusion?
Your operator's manual startup routine is very important.
Enjoy the learning curve on operating. Good luck.

Now that you mention it, yeah the handle is bent! Par for the course on this install....

 

[LakeFall]

Can you describe the issues?

Tstat wasnt working so dealer replaced it. Now it runs "full throttle" and the damper doesnt affect flame intensity. Removed cover and there is a 1" gap under the air box, effectively negating any air metering the box would be doing. Not sure if this is correct or if the tstat was replaced incorrectly. Does anyone have a picture of a BK air box and the area around it? I have other issues with a cracked casting in the fascia and it also looks like my handle is bent too. It's a bit of a mess but so far the dealer is scheduling another trip out here to take a look.

 

[LakeFall]

"Pictures or it didnt happen";

 

[stoveliker]

Hm, that sucks.
I have not seen this part (I don't have an insert nor any electrical parts - no fan).
But as long as the flapper regulated by the (bimetal - non electric) thermostat is working well and positioned well, and any gaps are *before* (rather than after) that flapper in the path of air flow into the fire , it might not be a problem.

@BKVP has the most knowledge on here.
He may also wish to know the dealer; both in terms of the dealer coming back (nice!) but also in terms of things being broken (crack, handle). PMs are best for that.

 

[BKVP]

Now that you mention it, yeah the handle is bent! Par for the course on this install....

I can't see image but the handles are not bent on AF25's. That offset or curve is intentionally done. Straighten it out and door won't latch.

BKVP

I can't see image but the handles are not bent on AF25's. That offset or curve is intentionally done. Straighten it out and door won't latch.

BKVP

Revised...that handle is bent! Contact the dealer where you purchased the stove and ask they address this and the other issues.

BKVP

OP, pm me dealer info please.

BKVP

 

[30WCF]

I can't see image but the handles are not bent on AF25's. That offset or curve is intentionally done. Straighten it out and door won't latch.

BKVP


Revised...that handle is bent! Contact the dealer where you purchased the stove and ask they address this and the other issues.

BKVP

OP, pm me dealer info please.

BKVP

Nice to see.

 

[LakeFall]

Wanted to post this to give an official time stamp on how quickly the dealer/BK responded;
Dealer stopped by this morning and what we found is that the metal plate in front of the tstat box was attached to the wrong bolt holes (my engineering mind says poke-yoke that design!) As you remember, the first tstat box had to be replaced onsite so I'm sure 99.7% (3 sigma!, ..sorry again...) of the BK units out there never have this problem. The handle and casting plate have been ordered under warranty but those are not as mission critical as a working air box. Also to note- not once has any of these issues ever been scrutinized as a non-warranty issue, things just get done and there is never a question about it. It is supposed to get into the 30's at night this week so I will get to try it out under its designed conditions. Just for future archive references, here is how the front plate is supposed to be mounted to the air box;

 

[BKVP]

The technician called my cell phone while onsite (your home). We walked through all 3 issues and I went out to the production line and had 3 builders share how quickly the cat piece could be swapped out. Hopefully the thermostat is now fully seated. Parts will ship ASAP if not already.

BKVP

 

[spudman99]

This is why Blaze King is the best in the business and has THE BEST customer service.

 

[stoveliker]

I think SBI and Kuma have similar customer service from what I read here.

 

[LakeFall]

Dealer stopped by last week and replaced the handle and the casting panel. Thermostat has been running excellent and its been in the 20's at night here and ran the BK nonstop for the past 3 days. Wife reports no "smoke smells" until I open door to reload. Still working on my technique. Extremely happy with this unit, I had expectations of the inserts from 70s-80s with the cloudy glass and constant smokiness in the air- not the case with my Ashford. The BK is extremely well engineered and robust, sure there are a few things that I would change with the design (door opening past 80degrees, ect.) but overall it far exceeds my expectations. My wife even bought me some early Christmas presents in the form of a log rack, ash bucket, and loading gloves. The dealer has been great and if you are in the the central NC area PM me and I will send you their contact info.

As far as my original concern of whether there is a financial benefit to this project, as I look over my CC statement where I just bought a log splitter, I can assure you that there is not. However I don't regret taking this project on as it has gotten me outdoors more, helped me appreciate the sustainability that is all around us, and given me peace of mind knowing that no matter what kind of storm- weather or otherwise- I will always be able to heat my home.

It's going to be a wonderful Christmas

 

[BKVP]

Great and again, thank you. BTW, I just spent $7,500k on right shoulder surgery. Insurance paid a great sum more.

I attribute damage to my shoulder to splitting wood for 25 years using a 6lb maul.

Splitters are cheap!

BKVP

 

[LakeFall]

Great and again, thank you. BTW, I just spent $7,500k on right shoulder surgery. Insurance paid a great sum more.

I attribute damage to my should to splitting wood for 25 years using a 6lb maul.

Splitters are cheap!

BKVP

I suppose not everything shows up on a balance sheet after all. A company that has their VP reach out to customers is another example. Thank you again for your help and I wish you a speedy recovery.

 

[stoveliker]

Are the socks combustible...?

 

[stoveliker]

Also, opening the door, do you crack it at 0.5" or so for 10 secs before slowly opening fully.?
Want to avoid sucking out smoke by opening too fast.

 

[LakeFall]

Are the socks combustible...?

Only if I leave the room while burning.... Besides, the tradition of hanging stockings started when people ran open flames.
They get warm but not hot. The blower keeps a lot of the heat from rising to the mantel. Needless to say, Santa will not be putting chocolate in stockings this year

Cracking the door for about a minute certainly helps. BK also added a detent to the latch in that position which is also nice.

 

[stoveliker]

I believe you need 20" from the top of the door to combustibles.
Referring back to what used to be done is ignoring what we learned (the hard way) from doing that.

I think it'll be okay, but it's not according to code.
Indeed, I'd take them off when going to sleep, or leaving the home.

Do have smoke detectors in the room

 

[kborndale]

Only if I leave the room while burning.... Besides, the tradition of hanging stockings started when people ran open flames.
They get warm but not hot. The blower keeps a lot of the heat from rising to the mantel. Needless to say, Santa will not be putting chocolate in stockings this year

Cracking the door for about a minute certainly helps. BK also added a detent to the latch in that position which is also nice.

Open flame fireplaces have much lower temps than inserts and stoves. The heat all goes up the chimney.

 

[stoveliker]

If the blower is on, it's unlikely to go bad.
Insurance might not care about that if it goes bad.

Point is, the user has been informed about this now. Can't do much about it.
Dry Christmas trees are a fire hazard too, with electric lights in them. But most of us do too.

 

[BKVP]

Also...turn off fans on stove, furnace, down draft kitchen fans, ceiling fans and bathroom fans. They all can create negative draft.

BKVP

 

[LakeFall]

To be clear, the stockings were hung for picture purposes only, they came down before I left the room (now everyone on the forum wont lose any more sleep over this) CO detectors on every floor as required by local code

My house was built in the '80s and not well sealed. The insert drafts strong whether the central air fan is running or not. In fact I've been running the insert low enough so that it only provides supplemental heat and when the HVAC kicks on, it helps distribute air (heat) more evenly throughout the house.

I'll bring a manometer home from work to report back on the actual pressure drop.....

 

[Tron]

Do have smoke detectors in the room

And a carbon monoxide detector. Just to be safe.

 

[Tron]

and when the HVAC kicks on, it helps distribute air (heat) more evenly throughout the house.

I tried that (running the HVAC fan for that purpose) and it didn't do much, if any.
Depends a bit where your returns are and where the duct runs, but in my home the returns are at floor level and the duct runs through an uninsulated attic. The little bit of heat that air has is lost in the ducts...

 

[snojetter]

I tried that (running the HVAC fan for that purpose) and it didn't do much, if any.
Depends a bit where your returns are and where the duct runs, but in my home the returns are at floor level and the duct runs through an uninsulated attic. The little bit of heat that air has is lost in the ducts...

Same for me. For several winters, I ran my central air fan unit on low all winter long. I didn't really notice any "upgrade" in warm air moving through my registers. I live in a split level and so I placed a single tower fan at the top of the section of stairs going to the basement and blew down the stairs. I felt there was an increase in warm air flowing up the stairwell opening (open staircase basement to entry level to upper level) that reached my upstairs living area.

The family room in the basement is always cozy. The upstairs is well heated when it's in the 20's and above. Below that, there will be some supplemental heat running off and on to keep the house at it's preset temps (thermostat is just beyond the stairwell in a hallway). I'm burning a free-standing Princess and the house is about 3000 square feet total.

 

[BKVP]

Same for me. For several winters, I ran my central air fan unit on low all winter long. I didn't really notice any "upgrade" in warm air moving through my registers. I live in a split level and so I placed a single tower fan at the top of the section of stairs going to the basement and blew down the stairs. I felt there was an increase in warm air flowing up the stairwell opening (open staircase basement to entry level to upper level) that reached my upstairs living area.

The family room in the basement is always cozy. The upstairs is well heated when it's in the 20's and above. Below that, there will be some supplemental heat running off and on to keep the house at it's preset temps (thermostat is just beyond the stairwell in a hallway). I'm burning a free-standing Princess and the house is about 3000 square feet total.

You both must have plenty of make up air to not have any influence. Good job.

BKVP