Wood cutting newbie needs advice

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rmanning

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Jul 19, 2014
15
Wisconsin
My wife and I bought a cabin up north, and are about to install a wood stove. I need to start cutting wood. I currently have a $120 homeowner special for a chainsaw, and it's just not powerful enough.

I know a lot of friends who cut a lot and use stihl, and the guys at the wood stove company also recommended stihl. So I've pretty much made up my mind on that. My question is, what kind of model would you recommend. I've been told I should keep it at around 60cc, and that will cut everything I need.

I've heard some guys on other forums say to look at the 361, but haven't seen it anywhere online. What are other comparable models (or another saw that would suit my needs)? A 391?

I know very little about chainsaws, stihl chainsaws, or the model naming convention of stihl. So any help or advice is much appreciated.
 
Welcome. I will leave it to the rest here to tell you that you need a saw that could cut down the Eiffel Tower. >>
 
Stihl has 3 grades of saw: homeowner, ranch and pro. There are a few online dealers but that defeats the purpose of having physical dealer support and a local dealer relationship. Check this site out.

http://www.stihlusa.com/locator/learn-why/
 
I'm sure stihl.com has a ton of info, I have an 18" echo, if I ever get a new one, it wouldn't be smaller than a 20" stihl. Budget may or may not make your decision when your buying a stihl.....have fun shopping
 
If you poke around in this forum you'll find that the same basic question gets asked and worked over pretty frequently, and there isn't a single right answer. I'd start by thinking about how much wood you intend to cut, how large the trees are likely to be, and how much of a hurry you'll be in. Keep in mind that cutting large-diameter trees means moving and splitting large-diameter rounds, and it's kinda pointless to buy a saw that can cut trees so big and heavy that you'd rather not move and split them. Consider the whole process. How is your back, for lifting? What kind of vehicle will you be using? Do you expect to split everything by hand? Do you have access to so many trees that you can pick and choose, or will you have to make do with whatever becomes available?

The main advantage of going with Stihl is that they have the best network of local dealers, so if you need to order a spare part or have some work done on the saw, you probably won't have to drive far. Excellent saws are also made by Husqvarna, Echo, Dolmar/Makita and some even lesser-know brands, but none of them have a dealer network like Stihl's. Should you care? Maybe. If you have a decent mechanical aptitude and are willing to do basic routine maintenance, you probably won't need a dealer's help very often anyhow.

In general I'd guess that most non-professional firewood cutters will be happiest with a saw in the 50-60cc ballpark. For occasional use at a cabin, I doubt that a higher-priced saw marketed to professionals would be worth the extra cost. The 361 is an excellent, expensive, pro-grade saw.

As to naming conventions, pretty much every model uses numbers or a combination of numbers and letters that give you some clues about the saw's traits, but their meanings are imprecise and those conventions vary from brand to brand. With current Stihl models, all of their saws start with the letters MS, and those letters can be ignored. MS is followed by a three-digit number. Ignore the last digit (a 0, 1 or 2), and just look at the first 2 digits as a number somewhere between 10 and 99. Read "MS361" as "36," and "MS391" as "39." Got it? Okay, there are 2 things to know about that number. First, broadly speaking, the bigger that number is, the larger the displacement of the engine. The number doesn't translate to an exact displacement volume; these are not cubic inches or cc's or any other precise measurement; they just give you a rough idea of where the model falls in Stihl's whole range of saws. Second, if that number is an even number then it's usually a higher-end saw with a metal chassis and integrated motor, and if it's an odd number then it's usually a less-expensive model with a plastic chassis that has a separate motor bolted into it.

Edited to add:

What are other comparable models (or another saw that would suit my needs)?

From Stihl, for what I'm imagining your needs to be, I'd be looking at models numbered anywhere from 26x to 39x, depending on size preference and budget... 261, 271, 290, 291, 311, 361, 362, 391. I doubt you'll be happy with anything smaller than that range, and larger is almost certainly overkill.
 
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One more thing... if you're new at this, you may not realize the importance of a sharp chain, or how easily and quickly they can get dull. Saw chains are not like kitchen knives, which dull only slowly if you're careful with them and can do a good-enough job even if you go years between sharpenings. Saw chain has to be in pretty darn good condition to be useful, regardless of how powerful the saw is. The metal that the little blades are made of is rather soft, so that they don't break off too easily. The whole chain can be dulled in a fraction of a second if you hit a nail or rock, and in not much longer than that if you put it into dirt. Chain sharpening is something that should be happening quite frequently. If the saw you have now did okay when you first got it, and you haven't sharpened the chain since, then there's a better than even chance that you're trying to cut steak with a butter knife.
 
Some quick points:

* Stihl doesn't sell new saws, or parts for that matter, online.
* Stihl 361 has been replaced by the 362. (Used 361 is still an excellent saw.)
* 60cc (20", 3/8 pitch) is a good all purpose saw.
* Most folks can do a lot with a quality 50cc saw (16-18", .325 pitch).
* Popular farm/ranch saws (Stihl 290/Husqvarna 455 and newer versions) are somewhat heavier and have less low end grunt than professional saws of near the same displacement.
 
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I have a ms 261 and a 362. I find that about 95% of the time I grab the 261--the saw is relatively light and cuts just about anything I want it to. If you stay away from stuff that is 3 ft wide, I'd go with the 261. Don't get me wrong, the 362 tears through some wood, but I notice the weight difference and it uses more gas than the 261. Of course, both of these are pro saws and are a little pricey, but are worth it in my opinion.
 
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If you poke around in this forum you'll find that the same basic question gets asked and worked over pretty frequently, and there isn't a single right answer. I'd start by thinking about how much wood you intend to cut, how large the trees are likely to be, and how much of a hurry you'll be in. Keep in mind that cutting large-diameter trees means moving and splitting large-diameter rounds, and it's kinda pointless to buy a saw that can cut trees so big and heavy that you'd rather not move and split them. Consider the whole process. How is your back, for lifting? What kind of vehicle will you be using? Do you expect to split everything by hand? Do you have access to so many trees that you can pick and choose, or will you have to make do with whatever becomes available?

The main advantage of going with Stihl is that they have the best network of local dealers, so if you need to order a spare part or have some work done on the saw, you probably won't have to drive far. Excellent saws are also made by Husqvarna, Echo, Dolmar/Makita and some even lesser-know brands, but none of them have a dealer network like Stihl's. Should you care? Maybe. If you have a decent mechanical aptitude and are willing to do basic routine maintenance, you probably won't need a dealer's help very often anyhow.

In general I'd guess that most non-professional firewood cutters will be happiest with a saw in the 50-60cc ballpark. For occasional use at a cabin, I doubt that a higher-priced saw marketed to professionals would be worth the extra cost. The 361 is an excellent, expensive, pro-grade saw.

As to naming conventions, pretty much every model uses numbers or a combination of numbers and letters that give you some clues about the saw's traits, but their meanings are imprecise and those conventions vary from brand to brand. With current Stihl models, all of their saws start with the letters MS, and those letters can be ignored. MS is followed by a three-digit number. Ignore the last digit (a 0, 1 or 2), and just look at the first 2 digits as a number somewhere between 10 and 99. Read "MS361" as "36," and "MS391" as "39." Got it? Okay, there are 2 things to know about that number. First, broadly speaking, the bigger that number is, the larger the displacement of the engine. The number doesn't translate to an exact displacement volume; these are not cubic inches or cc's or any other precise measurement; they just give you a rough idea of where the model falls in Stihl's whole range of saws. Second, if that number is an even number then it's usually a higher-end saw with a metal chassis and integrated motor, and if it's an odd number then it's usually a less-expensive model with a plastic chassis that has a separate motor bolted into it.

Edited to add:



From Stihl, for what I'm imagining your needs to be, I'd be looking at models numbered anywhere from 26x to 39x, depending on size preference and budget... 261, 271, 290, 291, 311, 361, 362, 391. I doubt you'll be happy with anything smaller than that range, and larger is almost certainly overkill.

You bring up a great point about tree size, which is something I've been thinking about too. Right now, wood will be hauld with a polaris ranger, and splitting done by hand. Won't get a splitter until next year at earliest.
 
I've read posts by a lot of people that the pro saws are generally lighter and less vibration than homeowner saws. Any truth to this?
 
I've seen a lot of people say the Husky 550 xp is a really great saw. And only 10 lbs. the max bar length it will take is 20", is it going to handle that well? I kind of had my mind set on a 60cc, but now would consider a 50cc, if you all think that would work. I think it will be fine. I have tendency to go with the biggest and greatest of everything, and I'm trying not to do that. I do like the weight of the 50cc.

So right now I'm looking at the stihl 261 or husqvarna 550xp in 50cc, and the stihl ms362 or husqvarna 562 xp. Both have dealerships where I live as well as where my cabin is. I'm kind of torn
 
I've read posts by a lot of people that the pro saws are generally lighter and less vibration than homeowner saws. Any truth to this?

In general, this is true. For a given displacement, pro saws are lighter, have more power, more torque, better antivibration technology, adjustable oilers, fully tunable carburetor, and are often easier to work on when repairs are needed (split crankcase).

Note that you will find some modern homeowner and midlevel saws that do have one or more of these typically "pro saw" characteristics. For instance, you can buy a 42cc Craftsman homeowner saw with good spring antivibriation technology, and the very popular Stihl MS-290 FarmBoss (midlevel) came with an adjustable oiler and fully tunable carb.
 
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As to naming conventions, pretty much every model uses numbers or a combination of numbers and letters that give you some clues about the saw's traits, but their meanings are imprecise and those conventions vary from brand to brand. With current Stihl models, all of their saws start with the letters MS, and those letters can be ignored. MS is followed by a three-digit number. Ignore the last digit (a 0, 1 or 2), and just look at the first 2 digits as a number somewhere between 10 and 99. Read "MS361" as "36," and "MS391" as "39." Got it? Okay, there are 2 things to know about that number. First, broadly speaking, the bigger that number is, the larger the displacement of the engine. The number doesn't translate to an exact displacement volume; these are not cubic inches or cc's or any other precise measurement; they just give you a rough idea of where the model falls in Stihl's whole range of saws. Second, if that number is an even number then it's usually a higher-end saw with a metal chassis and integrated motor, and if it's an odd number then it's usually a less-expensive model with a plastic chassis that has a separate motor bolted into it.

Edited to add:



From Stihl, for what I'm imagining your needs to be, I'd be looking at models numbered anywhere from 26x to 39x, depending on size preference and budget... 261, 271, 290, 291, 311, 361, 362, 391. I doubt you'll be happy with anything smaller than that range, and larger is almost certainly overkill.

The names that were throwing me off is on forms when people say they have a stihl 036 or 011. Thanks for explaining that to me.
 
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I have a ms 261 and a 362. I find that about 95% of the time I grab the 261--the saw is relatively light and cuts just about anything I want it to. If you stay away from stuff that is 3 ft wide, I'd go with the 261. Don't get me wrong, the 362 tears through some wood, but I notice the weight difference and it uses more gas than the 261. Of course, both of these are pro saws and are a little pricey, but are worth it in my opinion.

+1

My 361 is a great saw and I have larger options, but the 50cc 346XP gets the most use here. Its light weight and fast throttle response make longer cutting sessions a pleasurable experience.
 
I have an 18" bar on my 261. I've cut a 34" beech up with the saw. I used the 261 mostly because I was too lazy to go back to the house to get the bigger saw. It worked fine, but if I was going to do it every day I'd want a saw that was bigger than 50cc, heck, I'd want something bigger than my 362. Fortunately, most of my cutting is in the 12-16" range and well with the capability of the 261. I've owned a few homeowner saws, most recently the MS 310 (replaced by the 311 in the Stihl lineup). The pro saws are smoother, have a better power to weight ratio, and better constructed. I viewed them as long-term investments. I loved my 310 until I bought the 261--now I'll never own anything but a pro saw.
 
The names that were throwing me off is on forms when people say they have a stihl 036 or 011. Thanks for explaining that to me.

The Stihl saws with model numbers that start with zero and lack the MS prefix are all older. Stihl changed their naming scheme about 10 years ago. The 036 is the ancestor to the more recent MS360 and MS361 and the current MS362.
 
The Stihl saws with model numbers that start with zero and lack the MS prefix are all older. Stihl changed their naming scheme about 10 years ago. The 036 is the ancestor to the more recent MS360 and MS361 and the current MS362.

I forgot to answer one of your earlier questions -- I have 80 acres, with about 1/3 of it hardwoods, the rest soft. So I have a good selection of trees to choose from. Lots of maples, birch, oak, etc.

I was initially looking to spend $400-500 on a saw, but the Mrs. Told me to spend what I need and get a saw that will do what I need it to do for many years.
 
You cannot use horsepower you didn't buy. For a one saw plan at least 60cc is the starting point and 70cc would be better. I ran a MS 440 as a 1 saw plan for quite a few years. The MS 440 was replaced by the MS 441. Some of the problems with longer bars on smaller saws is the oilers, they don't put out enough oil for them. A sharp chain is paramount for saw life. Do some research on chain sharpening. Files and guides, grinders, timberline's all work well. Get proficient at which ever you decide on. PPE is important also, keep some cash set aside for chaps, ear protection eye protection and a couple of wedges come in very handy, and a hammer or hatchet to pound them.
 
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OK, just made my choice and bought it. Plus chaps, helmet, and chain maintenance tools.

7a9apahy.jpg
 
That'll do ya. Let us know what you think after you've run it a bit.
 
Thank you all for input. In the last week I've scoured all kinds of forums, and it really became a toss up between this or the stihl ms261 (or possibly the 562xp or ms362). It was hard to go against my German heritage, but it mostly came down to, the husky just looked damn sexy compared to the boxy 1970s-looking stihl! Also, I like the husqvarna 4 year warranty (with 3 bottles of gas) compared to the Stihl 3 year warranty.
 
You cannot use horsepower you didn't buy. For a one saw plan at least 60cc is the starting point and 70cc would be better. I ran a MS 440 as a 1 saw plan for quite a few years. The MS 440 was replaced by the MS 441. Some of the problems with longer bars on smaller saws is the oilers, they don't put out enough oil for them. A sharp chain is paramount for saw life. Do some research on chain sharpening. Files and guides, grinders, timberline's all work well. Get proficient at which ever you decide on. PPE is important also, keep some cash set aside for chaps, ear protection eye protection and a couple of wedges come in very handy, and a hammer or hatchet to pound them.

I got some chaps, helmet with visor and ears. I also got a basic sharpening kit to start me out. I also ordered some wedges.

As for the oilers with long bars, I asked the husqvarna guy about that, and he said that wasn't true, it's going to all sufficiently no matter what size it is. I have next to zero experience with chainsaws, so I'm just relaying what he said.
 
Congrats, I know your happy, now be safe and get to work....
 
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