Wood Furnace

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TL002

New Member
Feb 18, 2018
10
Indiana
I am replacing my current furnace with mini split ductless system and would like to install wood furnace as a back up heat. After removing my current furnace, I will have a space of 90" Height x 39" width x 11' D space. I am heating approximately 2000 sqft with average insulation (I am working on better insulation). I plan to install heat shields around. My question is what is the optimal wood furnace that will fit my space. Appreciate any suggestion. TIA.
 
I am pretty sure there is no wood furnace that would fit in that space
 
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Looks like the width is the main problem...a Kuuma VF100 might just fit...it is 27" wide and needs at least 6" on each side to combustibles, so 39".
What is this, a hallway?! ;lol

(broken link removed)
 
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They also have a slightly smaller (same width though, IIRC) VF200 furnace that is to be available soon too...might be a better fit for the size of the house?
 
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Thanks for the responses. I never heard of Kuuma before. Sounds like it is solid one. I like the feeling of the wood heat, it is strong. A traditional furnace does not take much space. So, I will be happy if I can replace the furnace with wood furnace. It is pretty high $$$ though, hope the 200 is a little cheaper. :-)
 
Another wood furnace that doesn’t get much attention on this forum is the Englander 28-4000 . This furnace is built off the Englander NC-30 model wood stove which gets great reviews. I heat my 3600 sf house with it and I’m very pleased.Simple manual controls, clean heat, and plenty of it. I feel the simplicity is a benefit others may not. My home is a thee year old colonial that is well insulated. Excess heat get dumped into my 1500sf garage which I maintain.above 40 degrees all winter. In extreme cold snaps I will run the NC- 30 I have installed along side it.(maybe 10 times each winter). I burn full time and go through approximately 5 cord of mixed hardwood. I also enjoy working in the basement and wouldn’t be without the fire view.
 
Another wood furnace that doesn’t get much attention on this forum is the Englander 28-4000

The OP said he only has a space 40" wide for the furnace...the 28-4000 is 27" wide and requires 8" CTC on each side...43" total.
 
5 cord for 3600 square feet is not bad at all. Must have the house insulated well!
Yes the house is well insulated but not super insulated r 26 walls r 60 ceiling and basement has r11 over cement walls 26 large triple glazed windows . Missed the space limitation, but sometimes those can be addressed quite reasonably . Good luck
 
Another wood furnace that doesn’t get much attention on this forum is the Englander 28-4000 . This furnace is built off the Englander NC-30 model wood stove which gets great reviews. I heat my 3600 sf house with it and I’m very pleased.Simple manual controls, clean heat, and plenty of it. I feel the simplicity is a benefit others may not. My home is a thee year old colonial that is well insulated. Excess heat get dumped into my 1500sf garage which I maintain.above 40 degrees all winter. In extreme cold snaps I will run the NC- 30 I have installed along side it.(maybe 10 times each winter). I burn full time and go through approximately 5 cord of mixed hardwood. I also enjoy working in the basement and wouldn’t be without the fire view.

Englander is a good stove. And it gives the view of the soothing flame. It requires 8" clearance to the side wall according to installation manual. With the width of the stove being 27", it gives me 6" clearance on both sides. I wonder if I could add heat shields to reduce the side clearance?

"Your furnace can be placed as close as 8 inches (203.2 mm) from a combustible wall (such as paneling, wallpaper or drywall) to the side of the unit; from the back of the unit, 10 inches (254 mm) is required to a combustible. The single-wall pipe would need to remain at least 14 inches (355.6 mm) from combustible surfaces at the back wall, and 21.5 inches (546.1 mm) from combustible surfaces at the side walls. NOTE: Always check and follow pipe manufacturer’s instructions, and all local codes. "
 
Likely can find a work around with heat shielding, the only part that get hot when the furnace is working properly is the front and stove pipe. In a power outage if left unattended the 8 inch clearance is necessary .
 
I wonder if I could add heat shields to reduce the side clearance?
They allow you to reduce the distance on stove pipe with proper shielding, so I would think so...A proper shield would be a piece of light gauge sheet metal, at least the size of the furnace (preferably a little bigger) that is spaced at least 1" off the wall, and is about 1" off the floor, to allow air flow/cooling behind it. On stove pipe they allow you a 50% reduction on CTC with this method (from 18", to 9")
 
Likely can find a work around with heat shielding, the only part that get hot when the furnace is working properly is the front and stove pipe. In a power outage if left unattended the 8 inch clearance is necessary .

I have plenty of room in the front. There is more than 8" space between stove pipe and the wall. And I plan to use double wall stove pipe. Maybe that helps?
 
They allow you to reduce the distance on stove pipe with proper shielding, so I would think so...A proper shield would be a piece of light gauge sheet metal, at least the size of the furnace (preferably a little bigger) that is spaced at least 1" off the wall, and is about 1" off the floor, to allow air flow/cooling behind it. On stove pipe they allow you a 50% reduction on CTC with this method (from 18", to 9")

I don't have to run the stove pipe very long before it enters a brick chimney. I can probably use double wall stove pipe. I also plan to build a supply duct box and attach some duct fan to move hot air around the stove pipe. I saw someone's done that with a drolet 2200, a kind of heat shield you mentioned with light gauge sheet metal.