Wood hauling trailer, stuck bearing race

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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
Our son gave me a utility trailer that started life as a 1969 Starcraft pop up camper. Checking the wheel bearings confirmed they needed not only repacking but also replacement, they're pitted pretty bad. I got most of it apart, but neither of the outer races, on the outside part of the hubs, will budge. I've pounded on them, even tried heating the hub up. The outer hub is threaded for a screw on dust cap, which I've never dealt with. One concern I have is if the race does eventually work it's way out, will it ruin the dust cap threads? Unfortunately the races are pitted also, or I would just leave them.

Has anyone dealt with these, any suggestions on how to remove them?

IMG_7376.JPG IMG_7347.JPG
 

peakbagger

Minister of Fire
Jul 11, 2008
6,350
Northern NH
I do not know what you have for tools but there are specialized tools for pulling stuck races. I have a set of military surplus internal race pullers that have pulled me out of trouble a few times. That said freeze spray will normally work. Put the race under tension, heat up the entire assembly and then spray freeze spray inside the race. It will cause the race to contract and break loose from the bore.
 
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duramaxman05

Minister of Fire
Aug 17, 2014
521
Perryville, Mo
If you've got a welder run a bead along the inside of the race, once it cools it'll pull right out.
I was just going to suggest that. It works awesome.
 
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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
@peakbagger I don't have any race pullers. The freeze spray sounds like a good idea, I do have a can of air, that when turned upside down when spraying will freeze things. When you say put the race under tension, is that where the pullers come in? I wonder if I can just heat it up, freeze it, quickly flip it over and drive it from the backside? Using the freeze spray is not a bad idea.

@Medic21 , I only have a propane torch, which is good for heating the hub.

@festerw , interestingly enough my son also gave me a flux welder at the same time as the trailer, but I've never welded. I'm not ready for that approach, but I have done some basic research and I saw that was a good way to break it free.

@JimBear , that is how I normally drive out races. I use a landscaping nail because the head gives it a good bite, and the 3 lb. hammer. I've pounded the heck of of these races, they didn't even budge..

With what I have, and within my ability, I'm going to try the heating and freezing first.
 
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peakbagger

Minister of Fire
Jul 11, 2008
6,350
Northern NH
Check local car parts dealers. My local chain O Reilys lends them out for free. Yes freeze spray and flipping it may work. usually heat and cold breaks the bond between the two surfaces.
 

MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
Check local car parts dealers. My local chain O Reilys lends them out for free. Yes freeze spray and flipping it may work. usually heat and cold breaks the bond between the two surfaces.
We have a NAPA about 10 miles, it's that or the next closet parts store (O Reilys) is about 35 miles. I'll check with them tomorrow. I need to call around for parts anyway. Appreciate it.
 

tlc1976

Minister of Fire
Oct 7, 2012
766
Northwest Lower Michigan
Here’s the other thing to think about. How much time do you put into it before it’s cost you more money than this.

View attachment 276395
That would be ideal as long as it’s standard. But some of these older trailers had odd size axles before the industry settled on a few standard sizes. I replaced the bearings and races on a 1989 Sunline camper and it had a Hayes 2500# axle. It had 2 different size bearings, I believe a 3500# axle bearing on the inside and a 2000# axle bearing on the outside. So other than buying a new axle, replacing the races was the way to go.

Lots of good ideas. Another suggestion is if you have a dremel tool, slice into the race whatever you can reach, likely a spiral, and that will weaken it enough to crack it loose.
 

MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
Here’s the other thing to think about. How much time do you put into it before it’s cost you more money than this.

View attachment 276395
I have to say, there's a lot to be said for this approach. I called the O'Reillys, for a parts and price check on 1 hub, for 1 seal, the bearings and races, it's about $46.00, and I still need one dust cap, which I haven't price checked yet. The one dust cap I have is beat up, so I'd probably replace it also, just to do the job right.

If I went this route, I guess the one thing I need to figure out is what size hub I need. I think the hub you pictured has the right bolt pattern, 5 on 4.5". I'm not sure about the axle size. It seems to be variable, but this is new territory for me.
 

Attachments

MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
That would be ideal as long as it’s standard. But some of these older trailers had odd size axles before the industry settled on a few standard sizes. I replaced the bearings and races on a 1989 Sunline camper and it had a Hayes 2500# axle. It had 2 different size bearings, I believe a 3500# axle bearing on the inside and a 2000# axle bearing on the outside. So other than buying a new axle, replacing the races was the way to go.

Lots of good ideas. Another suggestion is if you have a dremel tool, slice into the race whatever you can reach, likely a spiral, and that will weaken it enough to crack it loose.
This may be the issue I will run into, was the picture in my last post like what you ran into? This has different size bearings, it's the inside diameter that's different.

Edit; one of the more under appreciated tools I have is a dremel, and some cut off wheels.
 
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festerw

Minister of Fire
Nov 16, 2009
503
Cambridge Springs, PA
@peakbagger I don't have any race pullers. The freeze spray sounds like a good idea, I do have a can of air, that when turned upside down when spraying will freeze things. When you say put the race under tension, is that where the pullers come in? I wonder if I can just heat it up, freeze it, quickly flip it over and drive it from the backside? Using the freeze spray is not a bad idea.

@Medic21 , I only have a propane torch, which is good for heating the hub.

@festerw , interestingly enough my son also gave me a flux welder at the same time as the trailer, but I've never welded. I'm not ready for that approach, but I have done some basic research and I saw that was a good way to break it free.

@JimBear , that is how I normally drive out races. I use a landscaping nail because the head gives it a good bite, and the 3 lb. hammer. I've pounded the heck of of these races, they didn't even budge..

With what I have, and within my ability, I'm going to try the heating and freezing first.
Good news you don't actually need to be able to weld. Use whatever the lowest heat setting is and run about 3/4" on the race. You're not looking to do anything but heat it quickly and let it cool.
 

tlc1976

Minister of Fire
Oct 7, 2012
766
Northwest Lower Michigan
This may be the issue I will run into, was the picture in my last post like what you ran into? This has different size bearings, it's the inside diameter that's different.

Edit; one of the more under appreciated tools I have is a dremel, and some cut off wheels.
It’s been 15-20 years. But I just found the info and mine used a 1 1/4” inner and 1 1/16” outer bearing. I also have a 5 on 4.5 BC.

Back when I did it I found the hubs were discontinued in 1993.

You’ll also have to source the appropriate seals. A dial or digital caliper will be a great asset here.
 
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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
Good news you don't actually need to be able to weld. Use whatever the lowest heat setting is and run about 3/4" on the race. You're not looking to do anything but heat it quickly and let it cool.
I can handle that. If I go that route, I just need to figure out how to actually...... work it. LOL But, I can handle that!

This trailer is a flat bed, that I plan on welding 1 foot high angle iron around. This could be the impetus to get me started.
 

Medic21

Minister of Fire
Feb 26, 2017
1,107
Northern Indiana
I can handle that. If I go that route, I just need to figure out how to actually...... work it. LOL But, I can handle that!

This trailer is a flat bed, that I plan on welding 1 foot high angle iron around. This could be the impetus to get me started.
You have a 1 3/8 on the inside bearing and 1 1/16 on the outer. I can tell that is a standard spindle because it has the four hole mount for the brake assembly. There are two depth of hubs. And four or five bolt rims that are standard in those spindles.

Any trailer shop will have them. I paid$19.99 at a trailer dealer for my spare assembly I keep in the truck for the boat trailer and my smaller trailers. That was the complete assembly with nut, cap cotter pin bearings and hub. I greased the bearings and put them in a zip lock bag.

I hate Oriellys, my shop that I own will never put a part from them on. Over priced and cheap chit.
 
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mark cline

Minister of Fire
Dec 20, 2012
704
Cattaraugus, NY
I used very large sockets to drive out a race , cheap harbor freight tools and a big ass sledge , you hit it hard enough it will move or else you’ll buy a hub anyways
 
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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
You have a 1 3/8 on the inside bearing and 1 1/16 on the outer. I can tell that is a standard spindle because it has the four hole mount for the brake assembly. There are two depth of hubs. And four or five bolt rims that are standard in those spindles.

Any trailer shop will have them. I paid$19.99 at a trailer dealer for my spare assembly I keep in the truck for the boat trailer and my smaller trailers. That was the complete assembly with nut, cap cotter pin bearings and hub. I greased the bearings and put them in a zip lock bag.

I hate Oriellys, my shop that I own will never put a part from them on. Over priced and cheap chit.
This is great to know, thanks! With all the great responses, I have a lot to mull over. I need to get this resolved soon as I parked the trailer in front of the garage to work on it. _g I feel about NAPA the way you feel about O'Reillys, especially on the overpriced part..

I thought I was being prepared having spare bearings and races for my boat trailer, and you carry the whole assembly!
 

Medic21

Minister of Fire
Feb 26, 2017
1,107
Northern Indiana
This is great to know, thanks! With all the great responses, I have a lot to mull over. I need to get this resolved soon as I parked the trailer in front of the garage to work on it. _g I feel about NAPA the way you feel about O'Reillys, especially on the overpriced part..

I thought I was being prepared having spare bearings and races for my boat trailer, and you carry the whole assembly!
That’s experience lol.

Plus it’s 10x as fast on the side of the interstate to just change the hub assembly on the boat, trailer, or camper if you lose a bearing.

I lost a beating in the bass boat in Alabama 600 miles from home and was thankful I had The spare part in the truck at 1am.
 
Map gas , can be used instead of propane in your torch ..burns a little hotter..
 
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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
Map gas , can be used instead of propane in your torch ..burns a little hotter..
Thanks for the comment, I've never used map gas. It's good to know there's another option with my torch.
 
It can be gotten @ the big box stores ...
 
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brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
6,278
NE Ohio
Good news you don't actually need to be able to weld. Use whatever the lowest heat setting is and run about 3/4" on the race. You're not looking to do anything but heat it quickly and let it cool.
This ^ ^ ^
If you can make it arc/spark, it will make heat and do the job, slick as can be...it doesn't matter if the resulting "bead" looks like metallic bird poop! ;lol
I feel about NAPA the way you feel about O'Reillys, especially on the overpriced part..
+1!
NAPA quality no better than anybody else's now, and higher priced...huge hassle on the warranty then too...at least AZ can just look your phone number up and give you a new part (at ANY AZ in the country!) with no hassle!
 
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MoDoug

Minister of Fire
Feb 3, 2018
583
NE Missouri
This ^ ^ ^
If you can make it arc/spark, it will make heat and do the job, slick as can be...it doesn't matter if the resulting "bead" looks like metallic bird poop! ;lol

+1!
NAPA quality no better than anybody else's now, and higher priced...huge hassle on the warranty then too...at least AZ can just look your phone number up and give you a new part (at ANY AZ in the country!) with no hassle!
I've got a couple feelers out on hub assemblies, waiting to hear back. I'm going to wait till I have parts in hand before I destroy the race, just in case I have to throw everything back together to move the trailer. LOL In the meantime, I'm scouring youtube for flux welding 101 videos.

Our local NAPA is the only game in town, I think some competition would help. But honestly, there's not enough to support two parts stores, I'm surprised that NAPA is still open. I hate to see businesses go under. Our closest grocery store is 10 miles away and is up for sale, next is 13 miles, then 30....