BigCountryNY
Burning Hunk
Don't remember who already posted it or in which thread, but assuming one is burning oak @ $250/cord, #2 fuel oil would have to get to $1.38/gal to break even when comparing BTU to BTU between the two.
Wood not dry in September?
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Don't remember who already posted it or in which thread, but assuming one is burning oak @ $250/cord, #2 fuel oil would have to get to $1.38/gal to break even when comparing BTU to BTU between the two.
That is interesting. Around here its $300+/cord for DRY oak, obviously less if its green, but not by much. I just filled my tank at $1.75 so its pretty comparable. Also for me wood is supplemental to oil, so its not the sole source of heat, also my hot water comes from the furnace. I require a good deal to burn or else I am spending more.
Why not as long as it was top covered only that only speeds drying. I know it will dry uncovered but not as fast
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
The OP did right by top covering, but maybe the wood was not stacked in the ideal location for the prevailing winds to blow through the stacks.
BigCountryNY
Burning Hunk
$1.75 is really good! It's still hovering around $2 here. I also heat my hot water with the boiler, so I'm always going burn a gallon a day or so. After adding the second stove this year, I shouldn't need the oil for heat unless we are away for more than a day and even then it will just be to keep the pipes from freezing.
When first starting as a new burner I was fortunate to find this site. I read tons of advice from various members who had many years experience. After several years burning and absorbing lots of knowledge from the other posters I have come to some conclusions about burning wood for heat.
1. The three year plan is the place to be. Get three years ahead on your wood supply however you can. For me it was buying and scrounging as much as I could.
2. Make sure your wood is stacked off the ground, in a sunny and breezy location if possible. I also top cover but not everyone does.
3. Plan on leaving your wood stacked for a minimum of two years before you burn, three years is better. It won't rot if kept off the ground and top covered. I have foir year old c/s wood to burn this year and measures in the 17-21% range mixture of oak locust, ash and maple.
If you follow the common sense advice on this forum you will be well served. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
1. The three year plan is the place to be. Get three years ahead on your wood supply however you can. For me it was buying and scrounging as much as I could.
2. Make sure your wood is stacked off the ground, in a sunny and breezy location if possible. I also top cover but not everyone does.
3. Plan on leaving your wood stacked for a minimum of two years before you burn, three years is better. It won't rot if kept off the ground and top covered. I have foir year old c/s wood to burn this year and measures in the 17-21% range mixture of oak locust, ash and maple.
If you follow the common sense advice on this forum you will be well served. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Forget burning the (red?) oak for another year or two. Start serious scrounging, especially targeting standing dead trees. IOW go for low-MC wood. Once you start burning, splits can be stacked near a stove to drive the MC lower yet. Works great for me. Indoor humidification often helps too.
I'd check around for equipment dealers. Businesses that receive skidded machinery will want to dispose of the skids. Lots of good kindling/firewood there. Invest a couple $ in a basic sawzall from HF. You can burn the nails/staples out of that. Just don't spread them on the lawn or drive. A little iron supplement for the trees = a good thing.
I'd check around for equipment dealers. Businesses that receive skidded machinery will want to dispose of the skids. Lots of good kindling/firewood there. Invest a couple $ in a basic sawzall from HF. You can burn the nails/staples out of that. Just don't spread them on the lawn or drive. A little iron supplement for the trees = a good thing.
Welcome to the forum Jay. We have all been through the first year pain, but you are in the right place and have got a lot of great advice.
First off, like everybody says forget the one season to burn it myth. Its just that - a myth. Reality is that unless you have exceptional drying conditions (good sun, strong wind, wood all stacked in single rows with lots of air circulation) very few wood species are going to burn well after just one summer. Maybe pine, but certainly no hardwoods, and definitely not heavy hardwoods like Oak.
When I have split oak I have also found that it starts in the 45-50% range on a MM, so that's not out of line. I have also found that where I am at Oak needs at least 2 summers to burn ok (say 25-27%) and a full 3 years to really burn well (20-23%). Medium hardwoods like maple and ash are good in 2 seasons (ash sometimes is good in a year with exceptional conditions). Pine is about the only thing I can get burnable in a single year. This is stacking in single rows and top cover, but its not super well exposed.
Your location might be a bit better for drying if you have good wind exposure, but dont bet on burning that oak in anything less than 2 full summers. Its just the nature of the wood. For your first year look at getting pallets to break up, lumberyard scraps, or anything similar to ix in with the wetter wood if you must burn it.
And check your flue monthly till you know its not getting gunked up with creosote.
As to the moisture meter, one thing to know about the accuracy is that most of them are calibrated for construction lumber - typically Douglas Fir. If you google there are conversion charts on line to translate the numbers for different wood species.
First off, like everybody says forget the one season to burn it myth. Its just that - a myth. Reality is that unless you have exceptional drying conditions (good sun, strong wind, wood all stacked in single rows with lots of air circulation) very few wood species are going to burn well after just one summer. Maybe pine, but certainly no hardwoods, and definitely not heavy hardwoods like Oak.
When I have split oak I have also found that it starts in the 45-50% range on a MM, so that's not out of line. I have also found that where I am at Oak needs at least 2 summers to burn ok (say 25-27%) and a full 3 years to really burn well (20-23%). Medium hardwoods like maple and ash are good in 2 seasons (ash sometimes is good in a year with exceptional conditions). Pine is about the only thing I can get burnable in a single year. This is stacking in single rows and top cover, but its not super well exposed.
Your location might be a bit better for drying if you have good wind exposure, but dont bet on burning that oak in anything less than 2 full summers. Its just the nature of the wood. For your first year look at getting pallets to break up, lumberyard scraps, or anything similar to ix in with the wetter wood if you must burn it.
And check your flue monthly till you know its not getting gunked up with creosote.
As to the moisture meter, one thing to know about the accuracy is that most of them are calibrated for construction lumber - typically Douglas Fir. If you google there are conversion charts on line to translate the numbers for different wood species.
RobertNH
Member
Different from most here, I don't use a MM to check my wood. I weigh the splits.
Here's a great site for values.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/weigt-wood-d_821.html
I build a simple program in Open Office to do the math for me.
Also different from others here.. I do believe you can 'expedite' the drying process.
I use a Solar Kiln and have a new system I'm working on.
There are a few here that do the same.
September is a late start with any system. Temperature must be high enough for moisture to move.
I've dried wood late into the season, but takes 'much' longer than in the Summer months (even in the solar kiln).
Here's a great site for values.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/weigt-wood-d_821.html
I build a simple program in Open Office to do the math for me.
Also different from others here.. I do believe you can 'expedite' the drying process.
I use a Solar Kiln and have a new system I'm working on.
There are a few here that do the same.
September is a late start with any system. Temperature must be high enough for moisture to move.
I've dried wood late into the season, but takes 'much' longer than in the Summer months (even in the solar kiln).
RobertNH
Member
Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
RobertNH
Member
That's what I thought.
Stoves today are highly efficient. Unlike those of past.
Knowing where your wood is at, knowing what is best for your stove, is important.
Blindly burning may work for some...
Me, I go for most efficient.
Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
im working on wood for 2018-2019 right now. what will a moisture meter tell me come the winter of 2018-2019? time is needed to season wood. If you need a moisture meter then you are rushing things and not being "efficient"
Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
RobertNH
Member
Ya, but I've cut that time.
Technology is such a cool thing!
MM's are unreliable.
Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
I guess somebody has to be the contrarian. My woodlot is mostly beech and red maple, and a bit of white birch. I didn't finish splitting until the 4th of July or so this year. I run a Tarm gasifier, which really likes dry wood. I don't have a meter, but I brought some wood in yesterday and ran the first of this year's in the Tarm, and it was an excellent burn. There's a lot of variation between species.
Seanm
Minister of Fire
For the $40 they cost they are a great tool. Out west we dont worry about getting three years ahead. Birch, pine, fir, larch are all ready within a year or at least a year and a half. Moisture meters are great for those who don't have a large plot of land to store wood. If you have the land then of course you dont need one. I cant imagine storing 15 cords of wood on my residential lot. Anyone out there who wants to use moisture meters feel free. Takes the guess work out of things. Use the tools that you need to make sure you burn dry wood in your stove. I enjoy using mine. Most of the trees I drop are standing dead and are 20%-25% but do find some that have higher mc. I was in the sub alpine the other day dropping a few alpine firs and the trees were good to go except for the bottom of the tree. To say that folks are rushing things or being inefficient is simply not true.
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I make every effort to have suitably dry wood every year. Some years I do better than others, but every year I burn the wood I have regardless of moisture content.
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