Wood port design advice needed

[ChillyNoMore]

I live in a part of the Pacific Northwest that gets 60+ inches of rain a year and also sees some occasional high winds. In my early wood burning days, I tried covering my wood pile with tarps but they quickly developed holes and seemed to trap more water than they kept out!

Last year I covered my wood pile with plywood and that worked a little better, but it was quite a chore to get wood from the pile. I only have a little space in the garage to hold wood for current season burning, so I had to wrestle the plywood several times during the winter to replenish my burn pile.

I had hoped to built a proper wood shed this summer, but simply ran out of time. So now I have scaled back my goals and just want to build a port around the existing wood pile. Since this is intended to be a temporary solution (1-2 seasons only), I would like to use 2x4 lumber and a few post bases that I have laying around. My main investment would be some 3'x5' metal roofing panels that I found on Craig's List.

So, with that long introduction, here are my questions:
- will the structure in the attached drawing work if built with 2x4 lumber (rather than having to buy bigger dimensional lumber?)
- the port would be 11' or 12' long and 4' deep, but how high should I make it?
- if the roof cross-beams are 2' on center then the metal sheets will have 6" unsupported on either end -- is that a problem?
- do you think this structure will be solid enough to withstand 50 mph gusts?
- any other construction suggestions?

Thanks, as always, for sharing your hard earned wisdom!

 

[weatherguy]

I take it you don't get much snow there? I think it will be fine if you don't have to worry about 3-4 feet of snow piling up. By the way I think what your building is a great idea and a good permanent solution, it's what I plan on doing, mine's going to be 8' X 16' but same idea. I'm making the front or higher part 8' and the back sloped area 6'.
Good luck with the project, post some pics as you go along.

 

[Jon1270]

I think you need some diagonal bracing between the legs and roof. Otherwise you're fine. For height, I'd make it at least tall enough that you can walk into it without banging your head on the framing.

 

[Redlegs]

diagonal bracing for sure

 

[shawn6596]

If you use post in the ground it would be fine. putting it on post pads the wind my toss it.

 

[Jags]

Without securing it to the ground some how - you will be building a sail that 50 mph wind is gonna get ahold of. If you don't want to tie it to ground, Make a system that has a floor so that the weight of the wood that is stacked inside holds it down.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Thanks, everyone, for the helpful feedback. The post bases (www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Concrete-Pier-Block-with-Metal-Bracket-8053112/202820094#.UlWLqVCkqrs) have a metal bracket and weigh 62 pounds apiece, so do you think that will keep the port from becoming airborne? Right now the piers are sitting on the ground, but I could bury them if that would make a difference.

The diagonal bracing makes sense but I can't figure out the attachment given that the roofing panel supports will be tilted to match the roof pitch. I have looked at some of the other sheds built by forum members, but they all seem to use more layers of framing -- beams, then rafters, then purlins. Please look at the attached end view of the shed and let me know if I need to do something differently. I have framed walls before, but never a roof!

 

[jeffesonm]

I would stick a few pallets on the bottom and then tie the pallets to the uprights. The pallets will keep the wood off the ground and the weight of the wood will help anchor the whole thing down. And pallets are free.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Unfortunately, I'm building around an existing wood pile which is sitting on concrete blocks. So I can't really get pallets under the pile without moving all the wood back and forth.

We don't get much snow here anymore, but the wind is definitely a concern. I have looked at a bunch of shed designs and haven't seen a single one that uses the same minimalist design. Is that because it is a bad idea?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Think triangles for strength. As for the bases, it might work okay but to be sure (because you can't change it this year) I would suggest getting some good earth anchors and running cable over the roof in front and rear. I would suggest eyebolts but in 2 x 4 I don't think it would be strong enough. 50 mph winds can move a lot of building if not held down well. The earth anchors are not expensive nor would be the cable. If in doubt, go somewhere where they set up mobile homes and you can get some good ideas on how to anchor them down and they you would not have to be concerned with the wind.

2' centers would seem good but to be sure I would still go with 16" centers. For sure this would prevent any sag in the roof.

If you want some snow, you should not have to go far to find any.

 

[weatherguy]

What if he buried that concrete pier into the ground so only the top sticks out maybe an inch or so? Would than anchor it a little better?

 

[STIHLY DAN]

May be cheaper to buy a used instant garage. They work great and are cheap as almost free.

 

[weatherguy]

May be cheaper to buy a used instant garage. They work great and are cheap as almost free.

I've been perusing craigslist for one for over a year, no luck but that would be my first go to, TNT makes a carport that looks just like that port, I'm not sure of the cost yet I haven't had time to stop into a dealer yet. Size looks to be about 8' x 16' or 10' x 20' on the new.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

I looked at the TNT carport design and they also use the rafter and purlin approach. I'm no engineer, but I'm assuming that there is a reason for all those overlapping layers. It will take a lot more lumber, but I guessing it is the right thing to do.

So, here are new drawings using more traditional roof construction: 2x6 beams, 2x4 rafters 2' on center, and 1x4 purlins also 2' on center. The dimensions will be 12' long, 4' deep, and 7.5' high in the front and 6.5' high in the back. I have also added the diagonal bracing that many of you recommended.

If only the actual construction process were as easy as it is in SketchUp. Suddenly my simply port has gotten quite complex. Please let me know if there is anything else I should add/change. Thanks!

 

[Oregon aloha]

You will need to cross brace (Top to bottom) the sides and back. I built mine 6' deep and 12' wide and 8' tall with 4x4 for the corner posts. You will also want to use hurricane ties for the roof. With the front and back open the wood dries rapidly. I also put a metal awing roof on it and so far after 4 years it has worked very well.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Thanks Oregon -- perhaps we are neighbors?

Here is the next version of the design. A few things I am still trying to figure out:
- how high should the shed be? As a vertically challenged person, I wouldn't expect to stack the wood higher than 6'.
- what is a good pitch for the metal roof? If I go 4:12 then perhaps 7' in front and 6' in back?
- which parts of the shed should be pressure treated lumber?
- some of the sheds on this forum have a small pitched front overhang -- is this hard to construct and is it worth doing?
- for those with metal roofs, did you use roofing felt to combat condensation?

Thanks for your patience with all my questions!

 

[JohnKoP]

Hi, last drowning looks good. I would buried the concrete piers. Hurricane ties- yes. Pressure treated not necessary , maybe the four main posts. No need for a felt paper- wind will take care of any condensation. Use extra roofing fasteners , specially at the edges. Depends on your stacking method you can have a problem with wood bowing out the sides. Also more diagonal braising on the back and side walls. On the sides you can use steel cables crisscross , that will help anchor top to the ground and make the whole shed much more rigid. Small overhang will help keep water from your wood, but it's not mandatory . 7' front and 6' back sounds good. It will last for a long time .Only problem will be snow- light roof construction. Most important-put concrete piers in the ground.
Take your time, good luck with your project

 

[weatherguy]

Why don't you make it 8' instead 4'? Less cutting and double the wood you can get under roof. I just want to get 2-3 cords under mine but would like to have a little extra room. Make sure to post pics since I'm probably going to copy your design, looks good.

 

[Holiday]

I'd go wider as well. Seems 4' may not be wide enough unless the rain is always straight down with no wind.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Thanks for the feedback fellas! I will definitely bury the piers and use hurricane ties. Wind is an issue here, and lots of rain, which when combined with the wind can make you feel like you are in a carwash , but snow not so much anymore (famous last words?).

As for going wider, I can't do that since this will be in the side yard which is quite tiny. Also I bought the metal roofing panels yesterday and they are only 5' long. I have six of these 3' wide panels and will be using four to start to create the 12' long shed. If I need more storage later, I was thinking I could do a 6' wide extension. But then I saw Stejus' design (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-i-have-a-wood-shed.100633/) and now I'm thinking I could use the last two panels (each cut in half) to create a nice 2.5' overhang. I'm just not sure if that is too far to cantilever the way Stejus did it (without making full trusses). That would give me some more rain protection, but would it hold up without a lot more framing?

 

[Oregon aloha]

The drawing is great to see what you are thinking. The building will rack if its not cross braced ]X[ top to bottom on the sides and back. I like the the way you designed the boards on the sides. Just run your cross brace in between and lag them to the corners. I think I used 10's for the sides and 14's for the back.

I built mine so the interior was 10' wide and 6' deep. If I cut my wood 16", each row is one cord or a total of 4 cords. My roof goes from right to left with about a one foot drop over the 10' that matches the slope on the ground underneath and the awning I got for free off Craig's List. (My total cost was under $100). I have 3/4 - as a floor that is deep enough to stay dry and drain well. so I haven't found a need for pallets under my wood.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Okay, just one more picture with the roof assembly shoved back to create a bit of overhang on the back side. Oregon, I will add the cross-bracing -- it's just a bit tricky to draw (and I really should go to bed now!).

 

[Nick Mystic]

I'd suggest at least a few braces to help support that cantilevered section. If you only fasten the 2x4 rafters at the apex I don't think the overhang will be sturdy enough. You might be able to get by with one on each end and a third in the middle. Nailing one end at the outer tips of the overhang rafters and the other end could even be toe nailed to the header at the top of your posts. Since your posts aren't sunk in the ground you are going to be surprised by how much movement you get to the structure when you push on the posts and try to make it move from side to side. You definitely will want to add the cross bracing as mentioned by others and confirmed by you that you intend to use them.

 

[bogydave]

Looks like a good plan
Pic of beginning of mine few years back

Hurricane clamps might help give you peace of mind with the wind.
.

Added a front cantilever few years ago.
Looks like this now

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Bogydave, thanks for the posting pictures of your shed -- very helpful. Can you tell me how you constructed the cantilever portion and also how high is the shed in the front and back? Thanks again!