Wood Stove amateur installation. Need help

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Is everything here? I should have asked this before.
You can see how the fire chamber is open to the chimney by looking at the last pic with my fingers. I bought this stove used so I’m not sure if I’m missing anything.
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I figured out what that semi circle piece is. It’s part of the first heat shield on the back, looks like where the pipe could go out the back. There is another shield behind it is why I couldn’t see it. So I’m thinking the big outer shield is an add on as it looks newer.
The semi circle piece came from where I’m pointing.
It’s very thin so I don’t think it’s important.
The back wall in the stove is closed off with a thick cast iron vent cover, and the outside of the back is covered by this big heat shield.
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Turns out there is a heat shield on top of a heat shield. The top one was on the outside. So now I have a new UL Sticker to look at with different clearances.
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Or find another stove?
 
I am sorry to be so blunt but a stove with a crack like that is not worth installing

Well I canceled my chimney kit order with Northern tools just in time, it hadn’t left their warehouse yet.

Can this crack not be fixed?
I’m just thinking this over and it is such I tiny hairline crack, it doesn’t go all the way to the edge.
This stove has multiple slides to vent, one on each front door, and a large circular opening vent on the side door. And what I’m thinking is there is no way more air is gonna get through that hairline crack than one of those cast iron slide vents when they are closed, not to mention all the places the doors connect. And once the fire is going if the crack does leak isn’t it just going to be pulling air in like all these vents are supposed to do.
Am I missing something here?
I’m in central Florida so we would only lightly be using this during some of January and February.
I’m not doubting you, I’m just trying to think out loud so I can understand this.
Thanks
Ed
 
Well I canceled my chimney kit order with Northern tools just in time, it hadn’t left their warehouse yet.

Can this crack not be fixed?
I’m just thinking this over and it is such I tiny hairline crack, it doesn’t go all the way to the edge.
This stove has multiple slides to vent, one on each front door, and a large circular opening vent on the side door. And what I’m thinking is there is no way more air is gonna get through that hairline crack than one of those cast iron slide vents when they are closed, not to mention all the places the doors connect. And once the fire is going if the crack does leak isn’t it just going to be pulling air in like all these vents are supposed to do.
Am I missing something here?
I’m in central Florida so we would only lightly be using this during some of January and February.
I’m not doubting you, I’m just trying to think out loud so I can understand this.
Thanks
Ed
That is a crack in cast iron it will spread further it will open up and it will let air in where it was not meant to be. The stove would be unsafe to use in that condition.
 
Damn. What a story here, we just about got this Florida guy set up, and then a sharp eyed bholler spotted the crack, and we discover that the stove is ruined.
Yeah, I guess it would be hard to find a used stove in Florida.

Lowes and Home Depot sell some pretty good stoves that aren't too expensive, maybe you could buy one of those.
 
Thanks, wasn’t sure about that. So this class a pipe is only in the attic, or does it go out the roof too?
Sorry probably seems like a dumb question but I can’t figure that part out.

Not a dumb question. Everybody who already knows, assumes everybody already knows, so nobody spells it out.


Here's the reason: The black pipe is single walled for maximum heat transfer into your house. That's why you put the stove in, right? But when you are out of the living space, you don't want any more heat transfer, for two reasons:

  1. To protect the building structure against the heat of the chimney. This one is obvious, of course.
  2. To keep the flue gasses hot so that you don't build up creosote. The longer the gasses stay hot, the less likely they are to condense as creosote on the inside of your chimney.
So, inside the living space, let the heat out. After that, keep it in!

Make sense?


About the crack.... In theory, cast iron can be welded and it would be as good as new. In reality, yeah, it's a gonner. :(
 
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Not a dumb question. Everybody who already knows, assumes everybody already knows, so nobody spells it out.


Here's the reason: The black pipe is single walled for maximum heat transfer into your house. That's why you put the stove in, right? But when you are out of the living space, you don't want any more heat transfer, for two reasons:

  1. To protect the building structure against the heat of the chimney. This one is obvious, of course.
  2. To keep the flue gasses hot so that you don't build up creosote. The longer the gasses stay hot, the less likely they are to condense as creosote on the inside of your chimney.
So, inside the living space, let the heat out. After that, keep it in!

Make sense?


About the crack.... In theory, cast iron can be welded and it would be as good as new. In reality, yeah, it's a gonner. :(
There is one problem with your description. Once the exhaist leaves the stove you dont want to loose anymore heat from it than you have to. If it is a short run single wall is just fine. But if it is over about 5 feet i always use double wall to keep the temps up in the chimney.
 
If it has a good top you are in good shape. I wouldnt pay 100 for it though. But the market there is very different so i dont know

Yea, I’m kinda at his mercy. It’s been on there for 35 days, so I messaged him asking if it was sold? He said it’s still available. I told him my story and how I have a friend that driving this way next week, and asked him if I could just buy the top as I don’t want to make it hard on my friend. We will see how it goes.
I kinda want the whole thing for spare parts tho
 
Yea, I’m kinda at his mercy. It’s been on there for 35 days, so I messaged him asking if it was sold? He said it’s still available. I told him my story and how I have a friend that driving this way next week, and asked him if I could just buy the top as I don’t want to make it hard on my friend. We will see how it goes.
I kinda want the whole thing for spare parts tho
I would want the whole thing to if it was me. Up here that would be 50 at most but again i know nothing about the market in florida
 
not for nothing, but this could be a blessing is disguise.. take a look and the Englander 17vl at home depot website. you can have the stove shipped to your local HD, plus with black Friday around the corner there's probably some discount / coupon.
The plus's for going this route is that you will have an epa certified brand new stove that will sip wood compared to this current unit, the clearances are much more tolerant for your application. This stove is a convective heater so you will be able to control the heat output a little better than a full fledged radiant stove, its more a contemporary style stove so it will look good year round.
 
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Ok guys, let me just say I really appreciate everyone pitching in here. It’s nice to have backup on this mission.

This is my house, the chimney needs to come out of the roof 16in this side of the ridge vent. It will be above where the left side of the left porch window
View attachment 216098


Here’s the stove location

View attachment 216099


Here’s attic pipe location. If you look at the tape measure spanning the trusses, 62 leaves the stove too far from the wall, 67 would be perfect if that’s possible?(need help here)
The flashlight in the second pick is roughly where the hole will be, 11in from that big duct
View attachment 216100
View attachment 216101
Nice house, Ed. Sorry to hear that you are running into problems with that crack.

My question is, are you going to be ok with the stove pipe running directly in front of your TV? I'd be ok with it, but other members of my household would give me hell for it.