Woodstove doesn't heat any more

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jsndgrss

New Member
Feb 14, 2016
2
Huntsville, AL
Been running woodstoves (steel, cast iron, etc) since I was a child. Current stove is fairly small steel firebox (approx 24 x 20 x 10 firebox) When first installed 20 years ago that thing was hotter than hell. Once you got a good set of coals, you could throw some wood on it, close the air, and it would run you out of the house. In fact I had to run a cross ventilation fan/duct to the back of the house just to move some of the heat out of that room and into the rest of the house. The stove would heat the whole house even when the outside temps were in the 20's.

Several years ago I had to replace the fire brick. Original looked sort of like concrete block but was starting to crumble. New firebrick was solid sheet that I cut with a wet saw to fit the various angles of sides and back. The sheet came from a wood stove place but they didn't really know much about it. Problem is now the dang thing won't heat. Internal temps run 700-900 in the box (reading from the inside surface of the firebrick) but externally (outside surface of stove) it is below 250 degrees. The firebrick seems to be insulating TOO well. Ever heard of such a thing? If you open the door you have to put on gloves to even think about putting more wood on but stand 5 feet back with door closed and you'd think it wasn't even lit. It barely warms 1/2 of the room it is in.

First 6 feet of stack is bare metal, then transitions to double insulated pipe at ceiling thru the roof line and up about 5 feet for a total height of maybe 10 feet from stove top surface to spark cap on top. Stack is clear as a bell. Stove draws well and has never smoked. Currently using red & white oak and hickory aged 10 months and with a moisture content around 12%. Don't know what to do other than try to replace the firebrick again.
 
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I guess maybe that new firebrick is much more dense than the old one
 
That's what I was thinking. The brick is radiating back inwards.
Still, it should eventually heat up. I don't get it. We need some
more educated replies.
 
Snap some pictures of what you've got going on. And I'll be the first person to tell you that hickory and oak will never be 12% moisture content in 10 months unless they are the size of toothpicks. Are you testing a freshly split face @ room temperature?
 
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Sounds like maybe refractory material for a fireplace was used? Most stoves use standard 4.5" x 9" x 1.25" brick. Not sure why regular lumber yard firebrick wasn't used. What stove model is this?

24 x 20 x 10 is 2.8 cu ft., not too tiny.

http://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/replacement-firebrick/
 
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Different materials transfer heat in a different manner. Imagine lining your stove with Space Shuttle tiles. The outside would remain cold as the inside would be very hot.
 
You got the wrong firebrick.
I had an Irish Waterford stove that had a real small fire box. I just removed the fire brick from the bottom, that added a lot of space. I burned that stove for 14 more years and never had a problem, it ran fine without the fire brick and I didn't think I was going to burn through 3/8 inch of cast iron.
 
It was indeed the lining material. I replaced it with some firebrick I bought online that was specifically for that purpose and the stove is heating again quite nicely. I can build a small fire where the temps on the inside (firebrick surface) are running about 500 and the outside of the stove (side panel) is well over 300. I haven't really cranked it up yet since we haven't had any really cold weather but I am happy with the performance so far.
 
I agree that it sounds like the dealer gave you refractory material. On the bright side, it sounds like it worked as designed. Good to here you got it corrected and heating again though.
 
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