XXV may have to go
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Papelletman
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Luv2burnPellets
Member
Could the exhaust escape into the overhead roof venting and you have a ceiling fan possibly sucking in the fumes from the attic somehow, even drawing the fumes into the roof vent?
If fumes enter the attic space and some might, I doubt they stay there long as I have a roof vent which sucks out everything on a continual basis.
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Luv2burnPellets
Member
But perhaps the ceiling fan creates more suction than the natural drafting out the roof cap? Try shutting off the fan and check with your meter.
Bioburner
Moderator
I think I will stick by my first post on the thread. More so after seeing the first picture. I would consider the ventilating sofits like windows. Termination is always to be away from structure. House envelopes can be tricky under weather extremes.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Papelletman
Member
I am no expert but that does seem close to the eve, maybe extend it as suggested, or go through it and above the roof.
Odd in the termination isn't directly away from the house and given the propensity for CO to rise.
I'd want to get that termination down several feet from the soffit, your attic vent system may qualify as either J or K on page 8 of the XXV manual depending on if it is powered or not.
ETA: No one here is an expert, whatever that is.
I'd want to get that termination down several feet from the soffit, your attic vent system may qualify as either J or K on page 8 of the XXV manual depending on if it is powered or not.
ETA: No one here is an expert, whatever that is.
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1) I swivelled the termination that way to stop the wind to force itself into the pipe.
2) J or K? really? not D & E?
It will depend upon what the code says up that way as to how that attic ventilation system is classified.
If you are trying to stop the wind from being forced into the pipe you need to find a true jet cap as it uses the wind to assist in removing the exhaust.
This is what I was talking about in my first post. Venting into the wind needs to be planned for.
Jet cap? Duravent only makes what you see in the pic, unless you know something I dont.
I see it, you have a newer catalog, thanks.
Well I'm tired, my electric heaters on the main floor are printing money for Hydro One, at least they are very safe. Will see what the dealer says tomorrow.
My vote is for the air going into the eaves and back into the house. Put a CO detector in the attic and see if it goes off. Better yet fix it and see if you still have a CO problem.
I'm greatful for everything dont get me wrong, the head hurts, too much thinking for one day
Will revisit the whole thing tomorrow, might swap the P61A vertical portion with the XXV, it is shorter.
bcarton
Feeling the Heat
MarkF48
Feeling the Heat
I've got an XXV and I've thought about getting a meter and doing the draft test, but as I've not had any issues I've been holding off. I am vented differently that you. I'm curious when you did the draft test what you got for a high draft reading, was it within the -.50 to -.60 and then shift to -.35 to -.45 as indicated in the manual excerpt below?
I kind of would think a "cap" of sorts on the end of the vent to block direct wind would help such as in this link
(broken link removed)
and would be fairly easy to fabricate and try.
![[Hearth.com] XXV may have to go](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/153/153759-9f01fe0e6df0924068b461ab9752ebaa.jpg?hash=8JILK_f5_j "[Hearth.com] XXV may have to go")
Gavin641774
Member
No, it was -.75 as I explained in my OP. The book says normal is -.50 to -.60 during the first minute on high draft, not me, it was -.75 and did not change down on low. I brought it down to -.45 by adjusting the pot, which slowed down the exhaust motor.
The cap in the picture is not something I can get from Duravent, not crazy about the idea of modifying things.
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boomhour
Burning Hunk
A 24” / 61 cm Above lawns, top of plants, wood or any other combustible materials.
A 12” / 30.5 cm Above non-combustible surface such as cement and gravel.
B 48” / 122 cm From beside/below any door or window that may be opened.
C 12” / 30.5 cm From above any door or window that may be opened.
D 24” / 61 cm To any adjacent building, fences and protruding parts of the structure.
E 24” / 61 cm Below any eaves or roof overhang.
F 12” / 30.5 cm To outside corner.
G 12” / 30.5 cm To inside corner, combustible wall (vertical & horizontal terminations).
H 36” / 91.5 cm To each side of center line extended above natural gas or propane meter/regulator
assembly or mechanical vent within a height of 4.5 m above the meter/
regulator assembly.
I 36” / 91.5 cm From any forced air intake of other appliance.
J 12” / 30.5 cm Clearance to non-mechanical air supply inlet to building or combustion air
inlet to any appliance.
K 24” / 61cm Clearance above roof line for vertical termination
These are specs from my manual which puts you a little close with the right wind direction. Our gas fireplace terminates at 15'' below the soffit and was not allowed to run until a non-porous section was installed 6 ft either side of center.
Would strongly recommend giving this a try.
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