Any chimney/pipe experts out there? Trying to get hearth/new stove up to code!

[WoodPyro]

Hello,
I bought this stove for about 100 dollars when I bought my house and hooked it up. It heats my house very well and holds a decent overnight burn. I am really tempted to buy the englander 30 from overstock stoves.com for 980 dollars since this is the last year they have the tax credits. I am thinking there are a couple advantages. One is I would actually like to see the fire with a glass door. Another is the three screw air controls are incredibly annoying to adjust. Also, how much more efficient is the Englander going to be since it is an EPA stove. I measured this firebox it is something like 23 inches by 14 inches by 12 inches something close to 3 cubic feet I am guessing. Does anyone know about this stove? It is a hunstman by Atlanta Stove works, if you can see the pics it looks like they may have tried to make some more efficient burns with the secondary part on top, not really sure. Also, I live in a neighborhood with new neighbors and while my chimney and everything is up to code, I would like to burn more cleanly to not tick them off. Also, I cannot really afford more than the 30, thanks.

 

[BrotherBart]

The 30 will make you throw rocks at that old stove. See the fire, burn a lot less wood, get more heat and with good dry wood after ten or twenty minutes , viola, no smoke.

The fool on the next place over from me actually asked me three years ago if I burned wood. The 30 and the Jotul F3 were both cranking at the time he asked and I don't know what else he thought that nine cord of wood next to us were for. :roll: But there was not smoke to be seen up at the chimney caps.

I thought it was so funny that I took a pick of the chimneys after he left.

 

[cmonSTART]

Do it. You won't regret it. As BB said, you'll burn less wood for more heat and the 30 is hard to beat for value.

 

[WoodPyro]

Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to mention it, but it is split level about 2000 sq ft house. I believe I burned around 2 to 3 cords last year, but my wood this year is also much better seasoned. Any ideas on what to sell the old one for on craigslist?

 

[cmonSTART]

Probably take what you paid for it. List it for a couple hundred. Someone will buy it.

 

[BrotherBart]

The 30 is going to burn hotter and faster but in your climate you can fire it in the morning and let it burn down and the mass will give off heat for a long time. Then fire it up in the evening for the night burn.

Or just burn smaller loads and keep it going.

 

[wendell]

I agree with BB in this case but you have to careful with him. He thinks EVERY stove should be replaced with a 30NC!

 

[fossil]

Replace it with something. The Englander is as good or better than pretty much anything else in its class/price range, so far as I can tell. In any case, that thing you've got needs to go to its final resting place. If it were mine, I wouldn't look for anything from it but scrap value (if any). I really don't think I'd try to sell it to anyone (aside from the fact that where I live, that would be illegal). Rick

 

[BrotherBart]

I agree with BB in this case but you have to careful with him. He thinks EVERY stove should be replaced with a 30NC!

Not actually true. There are a lot of great wood stoves out there. And like Todd, I would like to take them all for a test drive. Just not have to lug them in the house and install them.

I ended up with the 30 on a fluke. Happy I did though. I was shopping for stoves that cost a grand to fifteen hundred more at the time. And figured if it was a piece of crap then I would put it in the basement. Been four seasons and it ain't in the basement.

 

[fossil]

Wood stoves, like other things, tend to get much more cumbersome and difficult to move the longer they stay in one place. It's almost as if they get heavier or something. Dunno what's up with that. I've got things that I moved around almost without effort just a few short years ago that I can barely budge now. :roll:

 

[BrotherBart]

Wood stoves, like other things, tend to get much more cumbersome and difficult to move the longer they stay in one place. It's almost as if they get heavier or something. Dunno what's up with that. I've got things that I moved around almost without effort just a few short years ago that I can barely budge now. :roll:

.

Ain't that the truth. The one that is getting harder to move around the most is me. >:-(

 

[fossil]

Wood stoves, like other things, tend to get much more cumbersome and difficult to move the longer they stay in one place. It's almost as if they get heavier or something. Dunno what's up with that. I've got things that I moved around almost without effort just a few short years ago that I can barely budge now. :roll:

.

Ain't that the truth. The one that is getting harder to move around the most is me. >:-(

Me too, Soldier...me too. :shut:

 

[Danno77]

if nothing else, do it so you can watch the fire. I love being able to see the fire!

 

[Todd]

I agree with BB in this case but you have to careful with him. He thinks EVERY stove should be replaced with a 30NC!

Not actually true. There are a lot of great wood stoves out there. And like Todd, I would like to take them all for a test drive. Just not have to lug them in the house and install them.

I ended up with the 30 on a fluke. Happy I did though. I was shopping for stoves that cost a grand to fifteen hundred more at the time. And figured if it was a piece of crap then I would put it in the basement. Been four seasons and it ain't in the basement.

Hey I resemble that remark! So little time, so many stoves. :lol: If you don't want to install them have someone else do it, I know your just itching for a Blaze King.

 

[begreen]

No comment from this peanut gallery. :shut: Sure wish Woodstock would keep quiet about that big, new stove.

 

[vvvv]

stove & flue look kinda close to wall?

 

[albertj03]

I'm no expert by any means but I think you will need to extend you hearth out for the 30nc. It's a big stove and you need the front clearance as well.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

yeah , hearth looks like it will need extended, actually its not up to code with the stove that is installed there now, not trying to be a putz about it or anything, just observing.

BTw i see you are in east Tenn. if you are close to Maryville you might run over to the englander store there (1420 west broadway), see Steve Young, he's a great guy and may be able to help you with "logistics" with your install. tell him mike from englander sent ya!

 

[BrotherBart]

BTw i see you are in east Tenn. if you are close to Maryville you might run over to the englander store there (1420 west broadway), see Steve Young, he's a great guy and may be able to help you with "logistics" with your install. tell him mike from englander sent ya!

http://www.englandswoodstovestore.com/englander.shtml

 

[WoodPyro]

Hey guys,
I really do not mind you guys commenting on the codes at all. I did some measurements. The current stove is 27 inches deep by 17 inches wide. It is 15 inches from the rear, mostly due to the rear entry which I really cannot stand. The 30 says 8 inches rear clearance and is 24 inches deep, so I move it 7 inches back and it is 3 inches less deep so that is 10 inches farther back it will be. The hearth is 47 inches deep, I think that stove is really big but maybe doesn't look that big in the pic so it is 32 inches out so it would be 15 inches from the front and it is slightly elevated so will that help with the front clearance? It doesn't state what the front clearance is, I am guessing the same as the side at like 19 inches. the hearth is 50 inches wide and the englander is 23 inches wide so leaves me 13.5 inches on the sides which is not the 19. Honestly, I have burned two full winters with that stove too dumb to think about codes with no problems..... although I understand there are reasons for them. What do you guys think? Thanks, James

 

[vvvv]

singlewall stovepipe is18" per code, doublewall is 6" ithinx

 

[WoodPyro]

18 inches even to the uncombustible surface? It goes to like 2 or 3 inches where the pipe actually goes into the wall, seems a bit ridiculous to my ignorant mind.

 

[WoodPyro]

Yeah looking at manual it is 16 inches from the flue, it also says minimum floor protection is 39 x 52.5.

 

[vvvv]

18 inches even to the uncombustible surface? It goes to like 2 or 3 inches where the pipe actually goes into the wall, seems a bit ridiculous to my ignorant mind.

unless theres a code specified airgap behind the rock, heat will pass thru stone & dry the wood behind, eventually burning at a lower temp than unreheated wood

 

[fossil]

Unless that's a solid masonry structure through and through, the stone-looking fascia on your wall is just that...stone-looking fascia (even though it may be real stone). It buys you basically nothing in terms of required clearances to combustibles, except taking up space. The combustible material is the wall to which that fascia is attached, and it's from the face of that combustible wall that you must measure to ensure safe clearance. If you've got single-wall stovepipe anywhere in the system (we can't see the whole system in the pics) that's less than 18" from the combustible wall behind the fascia (or actually gets down to 2 or 3 inches...and you say "goes into the wall"), then you might have a real problem here. Single-wall stovepipe cannot "go into a wall"...it must transition to Class A chimney through an appropriate adapter at the penetration of the building. Maybe post a pic of how the flue gets through the wall/ceiling on its way to daylight? Rick