Cutting the trunk of a felled tree

[Elle]

HI, I have a tree that fell during a storm. I can cut most of it I think without issue, though I think I might have to use a car jack or something because I did get my bar trapped in one spot, but...I'll figure that out-but suggestions welcomed. My big question is cutting the trunk. It's about 20 inches in diameter. What do I do when I get close to the ground. The trunk is on the ground and there is no way I see to raise it up. Do I just get as low as I can and use some swinging of an ax? I"m buying a new chain saw (caught bar was great excuse) and I don't want to do any damage. Would really hate to have to hire someone to cut that, but I will if I have to.

Thanks

 

[blacktail]

To avoid pinching your bar, jam a wedge into the kerf to maintain the gap.

 

[lsucet]

Driving the wedge in as suggested by blacktail it helps also to get that area off the floor and possibly you will be able to cut through

 

[lsucet]

Also you can buy if possible a woodchuck. That can help.

 

[Tar12]

Here is a video for you to watch...take note of the use of the bucking wedges...this will keep your saw from getting pinched.Its not hard to do at all.

 

[kennyp2339]

If you can get the crown of the tree cut free from the trunk, then you can cut your logs 3/4 of the way through the trunk and then roll the trunk and finish the cutting. a peavey tool helps in rolling the trunk.

 

[Elle]

the trunk is not going to get moved. Tree is way too big and heavy.

 

[Elle]

thanks. Yea the saw actually got pinched in a different part of the tree. Not sure what I was thinking, lol. Thanks. Not sure why I didn't think of Youtube first

 

[Elle]

One more question...I see spiked wedges and I see smooth. Which do I want to use? I"m guessing the spiked might be to make sure they don't slip out? Also sizes? Thanks guys

 

[BenTN]

I use smooth wedges. Ones with spikes would be hard to remove once your finished with your cut. For large trees i will usually use this wedge method and feather or tickle all the way thru the cut. I do sometimes hit the dirt but you can see the chips change color when you hit bark on the bottom side. I should invest in a cant hook and roll these logs, but it can be done. If your not good with a file yet be cautious of cutting all the way thru.

 

[Tar12]

One more question...I see spiked wedges and I see smooth. Which do I want to use? I"m guessing the spiked might be to make sure they don't slip out? Also sizes? Thanks guys

All I use is the spiked or ridged wedge and as you guessed they help hold it in place. I prefer the 6-8 in wedges for bucking...anything larger is considered a felling wedge and not needed for your application.They will never stick on you. Keep in mind there is never a need to completely drive a plastic wedge as its sole purpose is to only keep the wood from closing upon itself allowing you to complete the cut when your bucking up a horizontal log.I always leave a 1in or 2in sticking up in case I need to tap it side ways to remove it.I would get a minimum of 3...the plastic can and will break...thats just the nature of the beast.I buy them by the half dozen but I cut a lot.

 

[lsucet]

Always remember to stay up hill in case that there's an incline. You don't want the trunk rolling on you.

 

[Montanalocal]

I have had big logs that could not be rolled, especially big pines that have snapped off their branches when they fell and left the stubs buried in the dirt, pinning the tree.

After making my initial cuts, what I have done is shovel out from under the trunk in the middle of the log so as to get a chain under and wrapped around. I hook the chain to itself on the far side of the log from where I want it to roll towards. Then I hook this to my pickup, using a snatch block if I can not position the pickup perpendicular to the log. One hard yank, and the log rolls over, freeing the pinned stubs.

 

[Elle]

thanks guys, this is great I learned a great deal that will also help me in the bush. Appreciate it. let you know how it goes

 

[Woodsplitter67]

If the trunk is on the ground. What i usually do is call my 8yr old over in the track michene and have him lift it up for me

 

[osagebow]

It seems like a no brainer, but I didn't think of it untill I saw it posted here a long while back- Cut wood wedges if you don't have plastic, or left them at home....again.

A straight pole cut from the crown or a smaller tree can used as a lever can move a reasonably sized medium log onto shims, or momentarily lift it for shimming. I try to get multiple spots propped and go to town worry free, or get a couple sections cut on the bigger stuff.. We have sandstone everywhere, and I hate rocking chains.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Here is a video for you to watch...take note of the use of the bucking wedges...this will keep your saw from getting pinched.Its not hard to do at all.

Wranglestar is a real enigma. He tries so hard to look like he knows what he's doing without really succeeding. A lot of dinking around with nothing to show for it. Doesn't he have a shorter bar? It makes it a lot easier on the bigger stuff if you don't have the better part of a foot of bar sticking out the other side! And that was the big end of the tree. I guess it's more "manly" that way.

 

[Soundchasm]

I had to work through a 30" oak limb that came down on the property. I have a 16" saw, and it was definitely possible to get my "Zen" on and cut down to 1/4". Then a touch here, and a touch there, and a round was free. Of course, nobody is yelling at me to get finished.

Keep this in mind. Maybe you can't roll the whole stump as it is, but you might be able to roll half of it. Perhaps the finessing cut in the middle can make two halves where you can then cut, cut, cut, roll, finish, finish, finish.

 

[TreePointer]

Many good suggestions already. Some more suggestions and twists on ideas:

A cant hook or timberjack (cant hook with foot) might surprise you. I've rolled many logs with greater than 20" diameter with a 48" cant hook. Of course, if the trunk has monster length, it can be difficult.

If the saw has an inboard clutch, you can unbolt the bar from the powerhead and just put on a second bar & chain (no second saw needed). If it has an outboard clutch, then it's almost a certainty you will not be able to do this.

If there is clearance under any part of the trunk, place smaller limbs and logs under the trunk (perpendicular to trunk) BEFORE making major cuts to the trunk or side/canopy branches supporting the trunk. Next, cut the supporting branches and the trunk will fall onto the perpendicularly placed logs leaving it off the ground for much easier bucking.

 

[Vikestand]

Here is a video for you to watch...take note of the use of the bucking wedges...this will keep your saw from getting pinched.Its not hard to do at all.

Whoever taught this man how to drive a wedge, needs to be fired.

 

[Elle]

I did manage to get the bar out, but I"m sure it's bent. The chain is still in there. I"m not sure why I thought I could cut this particular area without it pinching because the way the limb was, I knew it was going to. WTF? I actually had some cinder blocks nearby and was thinking of using them at some point to hold some areas, but I didn't' for this particular limb. No idea what I was thinking, but maybe it was God's way of telling me I need a few more pointers before I hurt myself, lol.

 

[billb3]

some people just have unique ways of learning

 

[Vikestand]

I usually learn the hard way a few times before I remedy it myself....lol

 

[BenTN]

Glad you got your saw free. Sucks about the bar and chain tho. It happens to all of us. Here is a short little write up about cutting thru tension and compression wood. Helps alot to be able to read the tree before and after felling and allows for much faster safer work. Both compression and tension can be used to your advantage while working a tree.

http://www.scottfrasertraining.co.uk/blog/when-things-dont-go-plan

 

[Jeffm1]

HI, I have a tree that fell during a storm. I can cut most of it I think without issue, though I think I might have to use a car jack or something because I did get my bar trapped in one spot, but...I'll figure that out-but suggestions welcomed. My big question is cutting the trunk. It's about 20 inches in diameter. What do I do when I get close to the ground. The trunk is on the ground and there is no way I see to raise it up. Do I just get as low as I can and use some swinging of an ax? I"m buying a new chain saw (caught bar was great excuse) and I don't want to do any damage. Would really hate to have to hire someone to cut that, but I will if I have to.

Thanks

Get yourself a cant hook/ lever:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/timber-tuff-steel-handle-timberjack?cm_vc=-10005
I used it on this Douglas Fir log and it worked great.