There are several variations on theme, start here.
A log is the trunk of a tree with the branches cut off of it. When the log is cut to stove length pieces, usually 16", sometimes other nearby numbers, the verb is bucking and the result is a bunch of "rounds" that still need to be split. Once the rounds are (verb)split, the usually triangular pieces are (noun) splits.
it's no biggie. Not trying to be an A-hole. I think I know what you meant.
I season my wood outdoors and have a rack in the garage that holds about a face cord. Once a week or so i put on my cold weather gear, grab a freight sled and drag several sled loads of seasoned splits to the garage and fill up the indoor rack. That way I can run my stove for a week or so without having to go out in the cold every time I need to load the stove.
What works for you will likely be different, I don't know of any two users here who do it the same way. Beware bringing a bunch of wood into the house before your temps drop below freezing and stay there. It's an insect thing.
To really "know" the moisture content of your splits, bring them indoors for 48 hours or so, split the split open, and measure the MC on the freshly exposed face that was inside the split a few moments ago. You might could get away with keeping your test splits in a heated garage for 24 hours before splitting and measuring the inside, but 48 hours works every time in Alaska and I won't question your results.
FWIW I would rather burn dry pine and reload my stove more often, compared to struggling to burn damp oak. My personal sugesetion would be to buck and split a couple or three cords of pine now, those will be ready to burn in September 2018 if you get it done pronto. Then 2-3 cord of oak that won't be ready to burn before Sep 2021 or so, then all the poplar. All of it.
Once you have all the poplar bucked and split, then do another 2-3 cords of oak for 2022/23, then clean up your pine, then go back to another 2-3 cords of oak for 23/24.
Pine will season to dry in one summer. It is relatively low heat value, but it will be ready to burn. There are a few guys (gals?) on here getting oak down to or under 20% MC in two years, but plan on three.
I don't have poplar up here, but it reads like perfect for cold weather. In average winters, if you have pretty good air sealing and reasonable insulation, oak will probably do fine for you. Burn it down, take the chill off the house and coast on the coals for hours and hours. But when the polar vortex comes to town, probably 2020 or maybe 2021, that's when you want the poplar.
Poplar has fewer BTUs per cord than oak, but it doesn't make coals and has more BTUs than pine. You can get the 16-18m BTUs out of it right now, maybe a 6 hours burn and reload. With oak, ooh 24 m BTU, it's "better" , you are stuck with a stove box full of coals that aren't putting off beans for heat for hours and hours while you are waiting for room to reload.
My advice is process enough pine to get you through 18/19 right now, no bugs, no mud, you can sip whisky instead of gulping gatorade. Next, enough oak to get you through 21/22, it wont be ready before then. Then enough poplar (might be getting into bug season) for 19/20 and 20/21. Then oak for 22/23 over this summer, then all the pine you got left in time for 19/20. 20/21 is going to be your hump year, unless it is polar vortex for you and your poplar is ready.
Don't laugh at poplar. Having a mostly empty firebox and a small bed of coals on a really really cold night is a good thing. Typical years, sure, you can probably do fine with not much oak. Cold winter like 17/18 turned out to be, you will likely be glad for poplar. Tulip poplar, yes?