There is some splits with some knots and such so not the tightest load of wood but you get the idea
Am I crazy
- Thread starter Cliff2448
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Going to run with your idea of im wasting alot of heat up the chimney. I just loaded my stove and im already almost closed on the pipe . Going to try to dial the stove in with a restricted pipe using the primary air. And see if i really slow the draft down what it does
So this am i posted a picture of a load i put in the stove before i left my house that was at 7:45 I just got home and this is what i have its now 12:10
Damper was 3/4 closed air damper was open 1/8th if i close air all the way i seen to get a dead spot in back of stove
Put your thermometer on the pipe 18" above the stove. Hopefully that is above your damper
Im vented thru a masonry chimney with a 6 inch liner I cant go up that high ill attach a picture
Ok for best efficency you should run about 250 there or a little more. But run it up to the top of the middle range to start. You will probably have to start shutting back before you hit that though
Trevor Tahclep
Burning Hunk
Exactly the same here, I have a Condar FlueGard flue gas thermometer with probe in my stove pipe and a regular Condar ChimGard magnetic thermometer a top my PE stove top trivet. Really love having both however the most useful and important one is flue gas thermometer.
My friend who's an HVAC guy put it in for me and bought the materials, I remember the fire damper cost me $60
Trevor Tahclep
Burning Hunk
Well if it sticks there, that is good. After one or two burning cycles this way at 400° try opening up your air supply 1/8 to 1/4 inch and register its temp then. Do this very slowly until you can find the spot on the air control where it burns at 500° to 550° approx. should you need to burn a hotter stove for colder outdoor temp days.
I think you either have a leak in the stove somewhere or you need a second damper if it doesn't drop to 250 or 300 with everything closed
He is taking surface pipe temps 500 to 550 is way to high for normal running temp
charger4406
Feeling the Heat
My F600 makes good heat for 10 hrs on sugar maple and oak or hickory,
I shut down the air as soon as the secondaries start and she cruises between 400
and 800 flue temp, on a 35 ft chimney.
I had trouble getting the stove to burn right for some time and found the vertical
seam on the right side in the rear was leaking slightly, not enough to over fire but
enough to waste some wood, took it apart and cemented the seams, took a few hours.
I shut down the air as soon as the secondaries start and she cruises between 400
and 800 flue temp, on a 35 ft chimney.
I had trouble getting the stove to burn right for some time and found the vertical
seam on the right side in the rear was leaking slightly, not enough to over fire but
enough to waste some wood, took it apart and cemented the seams, took a few hours.
Just came in from plowing the driveway very lazy burn going pipe surface temp is 380 ish I noticed from left of the stove the flames have been more lively im thinking I may have a leak over there ill check the clips on the glass next cycle maybe. If it comes down to a second damper it will be interesting to install i dont have much pipe length after the first pipe damper then im at the Tee
Check for leaks first. Your chimney isn't all that high it would surprise me if you needed a second damper
charger4406
Feeling the Heat
It never seems to matter I can load it with longer bigger stuff and same burn times
Just went out again to check on things almost no primary flames and some secondary flame very very lazy. Maybe its just me not using the right technique pipe temp 300. 2 hours in stove temp also seems to be down.
Alright last night I loaded up went to bed and let things cool down over night around 730 I opened things up to check gaskets etc and to clean out my ash pan. I found to loose clips on the glass left door where i was seeing that sporadic flame movement so i tightened them up and fired the stove up. That sporadic flame movement is now gone I can have the pipe damper fully closed. I now have to add primary air to get a nice burn maybe 1/4 of the way is this the correct way to operate with a over draft issue or should i keep the primary closed and open pipe damper to adjust. Also i honestly believe my only option to get heat up stairs is via a floor register it will go from my dinning room which is where my stove is located up thru to my laundry room which is right off my bedroom. The door always stays open. What size would you suggest i make this register to actually have a shot at moving enough air. Im not worried about noise. Im going to open it up today see what it does it things work out ill get what I need to make it have have a fusible link. Etc
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