fireplace deemed unsafe to use -options?

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The 2400 requires 16" hearth protection as measured from the door glass. In your case with the raised hearth this looks like it could be a simple, non-combustible ember shield.
 
Ok I wasn't sure because in the manual I thought it said it goes up to 20" if the fireplace opening is greater than 6sq ft. But either way mine isn't long enough. Since I have 20" and the installer said the stove protrudes 7" I'm left with only 13". Looks like when this moves forward I will have to cut out some carpet and put down something non combustible in its place.
 
Still waiting on the first bid for insert. Guess that guy doesn't need business. In the meantime I contacted another dealer and this is what I was told

Osburn 2400 insert $2599
Stove discount $259
Liner up to 25' $600
Install most jobs $650

Sub $3590
tax $228
Total $3818

This does not include extending the hearth more. At that price I hope it includes a surround but I'd have to confirm. Guy said the the 2400 sticks out 7". So do I need a 27" of non combustible material from fireplace face? Everything I read said you need 20" if the fireplace opening is greater than 6sq ft which mine is. Does this apply for an insert as well?
No inserts almost all need 16" infront on the door. In your quote i can almost gaurantee that is for a bare uninsulated liner (which probably doesnt meet code). And no blockoff plate or insulation behind the insert.
 
Ok I wasn't sure because in the manual I thought it said it goes up to 20" if the fireplace opening is greater than 6sq ft. But either way mine isn't long enough. Since I have 20" and the installer said the stove protrudes 7" I'm left with only 13". Looks like when this moves forward I will have to cut out some carpet and put down something non combustible in its place.
You can just lay something ontop of the carpet as well and remove it in the offseason.
 
No inserts almost all need 16" infront on the door. In your quote i can almost gaurantee that is for a bare uninsulated liner (which probably doesnt meet code). And no blockoff plate or insulation behind the insert.

Good to know about the 16". It definitely will not have a block off plate at that price. As far as the liner why would a reputable stove dealer/installer, one recommended by Osburn install a pipe that doesn't meet code? I would have to double check on that. For insulation behind I wonder if I could purchase some roxul for them to install at the time the insert goes in.

You can just lay something ontop of the carpet as well and remove it in the offseason.

I didn't know this was an option. Some reason I thought it needed to be more permanent and carpet must be removed.
 
Good to know about the 16". It definitely will not have a block off plate at that price. As far as the liner why would a reputable stove dealer/installer, one recommended by Osburn install a pipe that doesn't meet code? I would have to double check on that. For insulation behind I wonder if I could purchase some roxul for them to install at the time the insert goes in.



I didn't know this was an option. Some reason I thought it needed to be more permanent and carpet must be removed.
They use uninsulated because it is easiervand it allows them to keep the final price down so they can sell more stoves. It is not right but it is very common.

As far as the floor protection goes. Techically if it is permanent the extension would need to be built to code as a hearth extension for an open fireplace. If it isnt permanent it can just be a hearth pad. That being said i see no safety issue either way and i am sure no code inspector would ever call you on it.
 
You need to go with what the manufacturer gives for clearances, and the price is very reasonable.
 
You need to go with what the manufacturer gives for clearances, and the price is very reasonable.
The price for the stove is good. But the price for the liner and install is to low. At that price it will not be a good quality install.
 
I contacted the store again. It was not insulated pipe. The cost goes up to $1,200 for insulated pipe. It does include the block off plate. He stated they do that on every install. I'm not sure about insulation behind the stove but I'm betting if I had some on hand during the install that wouldn't be an issue. I think I talked this guy up enough via email so far. I'm going to pop into the showroom and chat a bit more and get a feel for the place.
 
Finally got a bid from first place. This one includes taking off the veneer and reinstalling. I think this price would go up since I'm sure reusing the stone would be quite difficult.
 

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Here is a few.
This is my first post. I know nothing about fireplaces or wood stoves or anything. Like a good homeowner (not like the people I bought the house from) I knew I should have my fireplace cleaned and inspected. I been in this house of horror for two years now. If it can go wrong it does and this is just the latest issue.

I had a reputable company come out and clean and inspect. I was told my chimney looks good but the hearth is pulling away and was not built to code. They said it is unsafe to use the fireplace and happily handed me the attached estimate for repairs. I was planning on getting a wood burning fireplace insert but now with this repair estimate that probably won't happen for a very long time. My question here really is do I have less expensive options. Would ripping out the hearth and having a wood burning stove installed be any less expensive?


I work in the industry and that is the most unprofessional shady ass looking estimate I've ever seen. My boss would slap me if i gave a customer an estimate that looks like that. The cracks along the face are EXTREMELY common. Not a big deal unless they really start getting larger. If you want just go get two of those adjustable lolly columns and put one under each corner of the hearth in the basement. Slowly, slowly like once every few days adjust them a little taller. This company is trying to rip you off major in my professional opinion. And yes the plywood on the bottom side of the hearth is not to code but 99% of houses built after 1980 have the hearth built that way. Its generally grandfathered in as we all know heat travels up and there's at least 12" of solid masonry between the wood and the firebox. Get a second and third opinion. Go to the CSIA website and find a certified chimney sweep and then research them. What they are proposing is just way overkill for the situation at hand.
 
I work in the industry and that is the most unprofessional shady ass looking estimate I've ever seen. My boss would slap me if i gave a customer an estimate that looks like that. The cracks along the face are EXTREMELY common. Not a big deal unless they really start getting larger. If you want just go get two of those adjustable lolly columns and put one under each corner of the hearth in the basement. Slowly, slowly like once every few days adjust them a little taller. This company is trying to rip you off major in my professional opinion. And yes the plywood on the bottom side of the hearth is not to code but 99% of houses built after 1980 have the hearth built that way. Its generally grandfathered in as we all know heat travels up and there's at least 12" of solid masonry between the wood and the firebox. Get a second and third opinion. Go to the CSIA website and find a certified chimney sweep and then research them. What they are proposing is just way overkill for the situation at hand.

Please feel free to show me what an estimate should look like. Also I filled the cracks and been keeping an eye on it. I am betting those cracks have been there for years.
 
I work in the industry and that is the most unprofessional shady ass looking estimate I've ever seen. My boss would slap me if i gave a customer an estimate that looks like that. The cracks along the face are EXTREMELY common. Not a big deal unless they really start getting larger. If you want just go get two of those adjustable lolly columns and put one under each corner of the hearth in the basement. Slowly, slowly like once every few days adjust them a little taller. This company is trying to rip you off major in my professional opinion. And yes the plywood on the bottom side of the hearth is not to code but 99% of houses built after 1980 have the hearth built that way. Its generally grandfathered in as we all know heat travels up and there's at least 12" of solid masonry between the wood and the firebox. Get a second and third opinion. Go to the CSIA website and find a certified chimney sweep and then research them. What they are proposing is just way overkill for the situation at hand.
So does being grandfathered in mean tgat wood wont catch fire? Does it mean hot embers cant fall into the crack and get down to combustibles? I have seen it happen 3 times. One to a customer we had worked for for years. Just because builders are to lazy to do it right and inspectors dont do their job doesnt mean we as sweeps should just ignore the potential safety issue.


I agree yes many of these cracks are nothing and only need filled. But there are some that can indicate a serious issue.
 
Please feel free to show me what an estimate should look like. Also I filled the cracks and been keeping an eye on it. I am betting those cracks have been there for years.
The only thing i see wrong with the estimate is no insulation on the liner. But filling and monitoring the cracks is not a bad approach we do that often
 
Is the wood form left in place an issue if I am using an insert? I really wish the wood was gone but the work involved seems like it would be pricey and the plan is to get an insert anyway. I was thinking of removing the ash dump shoot and placing a piece of steel over it to prevent any ash from accidently dropping down . I can't cut a piece of 1/2" stainless and rest it over the hole.

None of these estimates ever have insulation or insulated liner. Seems these stores must install thousands of stoves without it because the typical homeowner probably doesn't know to ask.
 
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Is the wood form left in place an issue if I am using an insert?
It might be a problem if it gets hidden and if a future owner of the home doesn't know it's there and tries to do a basement install.

A plate to cover the ash hole is fine. It can just be mild steel. Nothing should drop down there from the insert.
 
So had another sweep / installer come in. I will get a bid in a few days. Bid is for insulated pipe, insulation around openings, top cap and installing stove that I buy. No block off with this guy. I can make one myself so not huge deal though I rather it just be done. I program a waterjet for work and have access to different metals in various thicknesses.

This guy said I need to have my chimney cleaned. I already had it cleaned. I only had one small fire to make sure the 3m stuff held up. Which it did. So either the first sweep did a crappy job or this guy trying to make a few extra bucks.

I want an Osburn 2400 but we may settle for an Englander for a few years. Price is obviously a factor. Seems I can get an Englander for a quarter of the price right now. Since I will be a weekend burner and occasionally nights I think it will be good.
 
Well I got my last bid. If you thought the last few were bad presentation this one takes the cake. After requesting the bid be emailed to me several times I got a text 4 days after he said I would. I think at this point I am going to stockpile free wood I find. I figure to have 2+ cords by next fall. Look into the insert again off season. I am not finding anyone to work with that I feel confident in and will assist me through the process. Plus I can't even fully decide what insert I want.
 

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This is the busiest time of the year for installers. The price sounds reasonable.