1990 Vermont Castings Intrepid II

[JL Boston]

Hello. Please help me identify a part so that I can replace it.

I have a Vermont Castings Intrepid II model 1990 with catalytic combustor. I've just replaced the honeycomb catalyst block for the first time. Sitting in front of the old catalyst block was a part that seems to require replacement, but I cannot identify it.

The part is approximately 3 inches high by 7.5 inches long and about .75 inch thick and seems to be made of a relatively soft, almost foamy material. The part sits in front of the catalytic combustor honeycomb behind the refractory access panel. It seems to be some sort of filter or padding.

I'd like to know whether it's possible to replace this part and how much it might cost. It does not appear in the parts diagram of model 1990.

I do not know what it is called or what it does. Is it even a necessary part for the proper operation of my wood stove?

Thanks very much for checking on this for me.

Kind regards,

Judy from Boston

 

[homebrewz]

Welcome!

That picture shows the second part of the access panel. I'm guessing you took the main catalyst access panel off (made of metal) and then there was what is shown in the picture, right? That is also an access panel, but it's made out of refractory material. It's part of the refractory package, which is a box made of a ceramic material which houses the catalyst. I don't think you can get that separately, rather you buy the entire refractory package. If the condition of the rest of the refractory package is in good shape, perhaps a shop somewhere just has that access panel to sell, as the entire package would probably be around $200.

 

[JL Boston]

Thank you so much for your response! Now I see that it is part of the refractory assembly, which is also starting to crumble. I've found a website that sells both the refractory access panel (separately for $33 ) and the refractory package (refractory assembly with access panel for $181). I've ordered the refractory assembly with access panel and it should ship in the next couple of days.

Looks like it might crumble more as I try to remove the old assembly and replace it. Any advice?

Thanks again.

 

[homebrewz]

If you're going to replace the entire refractory package, then it doesn't matter if you damage the old one. You'll see how it looks when the new one arrives. It's just a box with some rectangular holes cut into it. It would be nice to have the old one as a spare if it's in OK shape.

While you're in there, vacuum out all of the fly ash accumulation in any passageways, and replace any gaskets along mating surfaces that you've taken apart. The correct sizes should be listed in the manual.

You might also check the operation of the thermostat in the back and make sure it's operating freely and that the spring isn't all plugged up with ash.

 

[JL Boston]

Thanks for your advice. I decided to replace the secondary probe as well. I'm having trouble removing the bolt on the back…it's stripped and seems practically welded on. I'm going to try to remove it with a chisel and/or vice grips. Wish me luck.
Assuming I successfully remove the old secondary probe and replace it with the new one, what advice can you give me about replacing it? How should the thermostat in the back look when the stove is cold? Is the metal rectangle supposed to be attached to the back of the stove with a pin or screw in that upper left-hand corner? If so, what kind of screw? Thanks again in advance for your help!
Judy

 

[homebrewz]

Try some penetrating oil on that screw. PB Blaster is a good brand available at any auto parts store. Soak it over several days and it might come loose with vice grips. Otherwise, it will have to be drilled out and then re-tapped.

I think that flap should be closed when the stove is cold, and then it opens slightly via the metal coil when the stove is warm to allow air into the secondary combustion chamber. I don't know specifically if the flap attaches at the point, but a schematic might indicate that. If that hole is threaded, then you can try a few different screws in that hole and see what fits. You can replace any screws and bolts with their stainless steel equivalents, available at any hardware store.

 

[defiant3]

Other way around, actually. The gate is open and closes as the probe heats up. Thread on that screw is 10-24, drill 5/32".

 

[homebrewz]

Other way around, actually. The gate is open and closes as the probe heats up. Thread on that screw is 10-24, drill 5/32".

Of course, that makes more sense! Thanks for the correction. That probe and entire apparatus should be clean for it to be working properly.