2014 Huskee 35 ton Splitter hydraulic seal blown

[dcheatwood]

First post and hope I'm in the correct sub forum to ask for help. Quick background on this Huskee 16.5HP splitter. A friend bought new in 2014, he died in 2017. Its been setting up for 4 years. His elderly widow needed firewood from this deep freeze we've been going through in north Louisiana. I offered to get her some and she offered her splitter. I brought it over and found the fuel tank empty (good) cleaned out the dirt dobber nests, cleaned air filter and added some new non-ethenol gas. It started on first pull. Ran rough and I put a little seafoam in the tank and let it run about 10 minutes and it got smooth as new.
Now the problem. I tested the splitter on a piece laying around and the seal on the bottom of the ram blew. I can see blue pieces coming out. It sprayed some hydraulic fluid across the yard.
So my question is this. Can I replace the seal/seals, and if so how do I remove this cylinder end piece? I can't find a video nor instructions for this type cap. Thank you guys.

 

[begreen]

For a lasting repair, it may be better to replace the cylinder.

 

[dcheatwood]

Yeah, I have a

For a lasting repair, it may be better to replace the cylinder.

Yeah, Im waiting on a reply from manufacturer now about that. Thanks.

 

[salecker]

Looks like a simple repair if you can find a seal.
I think you remove the bolt on the face and push the top of the cylinder inwards and you will see a ring stopping the top/end from coming out the cylinder,remove that and the ram with the top will come out.There will be a nut holding the piston to the end of the rod or something simpler,remover the piston and slide the rod out the top. Replace the seal and reassembel.

 

[dcheatwood]

Looks like a simple repair if you can find a seal.
I think you remove the bolt on the face and push the top of the cylinder inwards and you will see a ring stopping the top/end from coming out the cylinder,remove that and the ram with the top will come out.There will be a nut holding the piston to the end of the rod or something simpler,remover the piston and slide the rod out the top. Replace the seal and reassembel.

 

[dcheatwood]

My thoughts too, but looking that simple is what scares me. I'm gonna give it a few days to hear back from Speeco about a new cylinder or seal kit. Then I'll order which ever I need. I see lots of helpful information on this site. Very appreciative.
Any thoughts or advice on how to relief pressure before I start?

 

[hedge wood]

If you haven't done hyd cylinders before you may want to just pull it off and take it down to a local hyd shop and have them take a look at it. Those cylinders aren't bad to rebuild if you have done cylinders before. That one looks as it was seeping for a while. Once the engine is off just move the control valve back and forth and that will relief any pressure. When you start pulling the cylinder off have your pans ready as the oil will be running when you take the lines off. Its always a messy job working on hyds.

 

[triptester]

The rod seal can be replaced without fully removing the rod and piston from the cylinder. After removing the lock ring slowly pull the rod out until the the end cap comes lose. Then support the rod and disconnect the wedge. The end cap can then be slide off the rod for repair.
Getting the piston back into the cylinder when fully removed can be difficult without damaging the piston seals if you don't have the proper equipment.

 

[Jags]

Although I am very much a DIY type there is no shame in taking that cylinder to a hydro shop. Any reputable shop will make quick work of that seal and probably for short dollars.

 

[salecker]

My thoughts too, but looking that simple is what scares me. I'm gonna give it a few days to hear back from Speeco about a new cylinder or seal kit. Then I'll order which ever I need. I see lots of helpful information on this site. Very appreciative.
Any thoughts or advice on how to relief pressure before I start?

There will be pressure with the engine stopped,just move the leaver back and forth if you think the ram has pressure stored in it.

 

[kevin j]

The rod seal is only under pressure when the cylinder is retracting. I would look for a restriction on the port or the hose going from the rod end through the control valve back to tank. if there’s a restriction in that circuit for oil leaving the cylinder you can get what’s called pressure intensification. when the cylinder is extending the pressure on the rod side can be much higher than the relief valve setting (like one and a half times) and blow the seal out. Rod seals usually start to leak from dirt ingression, but they usually don’t blow out catastrophically unless there’s very high pressure behind it.

 

[dcheatwood]

OK. I ordered the seal kit from manufacturer (Blount?) $114. I took the cylinder to a hydraulics place about 55 miles. (closest one) They did the job in one day for $100. Well worth it to me, but now I'm $200+ into a borrowed machine. Glad to get it going for the widow though. God is good. Thanks for all the guidance.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Thanks for following up !