2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Ashful]

Highbeam is alluding to the fact that dynamic systems can surprise our assumptions, which are usually rooted in static analysis. However, I’d argue that the draft capability of a 6” flue is so far beyond the capacity of the inlet, or any effect of the “expansive ball of burning fuel”, to treat this as a nearly-static scenario.

We have seen other cases, such as the guy last month with a bad weld on the face of his stove, where a surprisingly small amount of leaking creosote burned off on the outside of the stove can produce quite a stink.

 

[kf6hap]

Yes, dynamic situations can be elude analysis, so I just try to guess the likely explanations.

We have seen other cases, such as the guy last month with a bad weld on the face of his stove, where a surprisingly small amount of leaking creosote burned off on the outside of the stove can produce quite a stink.

This kind of bolsters the creosote by capillary action creeping through the gasket theory. The window corners have plenty of creosote.

 

[SuperJ]

Ok will do, I'll wait until my wife is out of the house later today. She is scared some bird or bat is going to come flying out and flutter around the house.

Just an update. I slide up the lower pipe and pulled out a dead sparrow laying on top of the bypass damper. Got a good low burn going now that the chill has arrived.

 

[SuperJ]

Yes, dynamic situations can be elude analysis, so I just try to guess the likely explanations.
This kind of bolsters the creosote by capillary action creeping through the gasket theory. The window corners have plenty of creosote.

I noticed on my new Ashford 30 that on the door gasket on the hinge side the gasket is not well centered at all. 70% of the gasket material is on the firebox side bulging into the fire box, with the pinch point being in the outer 30%. Seems like a recipe for a short gasket life even if it seals okay on day(year) one.

 

[Ashful]

Just an update. I slide up the lower pipe and pulled out a dead sparrow laying on top of the bypass damper.

Poor little guy. Consider putting an expanded metal cage on that pipe, as it won't be the last. I had a squirrel get into one of my Jotuls in 2011, and caused about $650 in damage to the refractory components and combustor. In my case, I was able to get him out alive!

 

[Highbeam]

Poor little guy. Consider putting an expanded metal cage on that pipe, as it won't be the last. I had a squirrel get into one of my Jotuls in 2011, and caused about $650 in damage to the refractory components and combustor. In my case, I was able to get him out alive!

It might be the last sparrow and some of us absolutely recommend against a filter on your chimney cap after having to clean those silly things of debris at the most inopportune time! If you start getting one bird a month or something then maybe some sort of deterrent is worth considering.

All summer I left the bypass open on my BK for just this reason .Didn't want a pile of dead birds up there. Seemed pretty cruel for them to be trapped there in the cat chamber getting a little bit of air and a glimpse of light through the cat while they starved to death. They'd probably eat each other.

 

[kf6hap]

I screened mine with galvanized (hot dipped not plated) hardware cloth years ago and it is still in great shape. 1/2" squares. Never clogs. It is code around here. I live in a forest and don't want the wind blowing sparks about. After the smoke passes through the cat, I don't see how any can though.

 

[Highbeam]

I screened mine with galvanized (hot dipped not plated) hardware cloth years ago and it is still in great shape. 1/2" squares. Never clogs. It is code around here. I live in a forest and don't want the wind blowing sparks about. After the smoke passes through the cat, I don't see how any can though.

If your local code and inspections require the screen then be sure to use the largest allowed mesh. Also consider that some people still use newspaper to kindle new fires and with the bypass open chunks of burning paper might float up the stack. I would worry more about that then sparks.

 

[ben94122]

So I'm a bit confused after reading through this thread. I'm buying a new woodstove this fall for installation in a triple-wide manufactured home (on a permanent foundation, 2400sf). We were planning on getting a Lopi Rockport, but after reading so many positive BK reviews I'm hoping to convince my wife to get a BK Ashford 30 instead--we have local dealers for both. I'm especially convinced by the ability to crank the BK very low and long, because most of our winters are mild. We live in the Northern Sierra Nevada, overnight lows occasionally get down to the teens, and will have wood for our primary heat source.

1) It's a very dry climate. I'm worried my wood might be too dry for a BK? There's no recommended minimum moisture content mentioned in the owner's manual, but I read some comments here that 11-15%MC is the recommended minimum and drier wood might cause issues? I burn a mix of black oak and ponderosa pine.

2) Do I need to install a fan? It's not technically a "mobile home," (ie chattel) since it's on a foundation, but it is a manufactured home...who would I ask? State inspector?

 

[begreen]

So I'm a bit confused after reading through this thread. I'm buying a new woodstove this fall for installation in a triple-wide manufactured home (on a permanent foundation, 2400sf). We were planning on getting a Lopi Rockport, but after reading so many positive BK reviews I'm hoping to convince my wife to get a BK Ashford 30 instead--we have local dealers for both. I'm especially convinced by the ability to crank the BK very low and long, because most of our winters are mild. We live in the Northern Sierra Nevada, overnight lows occasionally get down to the teens, and will have wood for our primary heat source.

1) It's a very dry climate. I'm worried my wood might be too dry for a BK? There's no recommended minimum moisture content mentioned in the owner's manual, but I read some comments here that 11-15%MC is the recommended minimum and drier wood might cause issues? I burn a mix of black oak and ponderosa pine.

2) Do I need to install a fan? It's not technically a "mobile home," (ie chattel) since it's on a foundation, but it is a manufactured home...who would I ask? State inspector?

Yes, ask the local inspecting authority. If the house is bolted down to a permanent foundation it may not be under mobile home rules. If not, ask if an outside air supply is required in CA.

Draft is important for good stove performance. Approximately how tall will the flue system be? What altitude is the home at?

 

[webby3650]

So I'm a bit confused after reading through this thread. I'm buying a new woodstove this fall for installation in a triple-wide manufactured home (on a permanent foundation, 2400sf). We were planning on getting a Lopi Rockport, but after reading so many positive BK reviews I'm hoping to convince my wife to get a BK Ashford 30 instead--we have local dealers for both. I'm especially convinced by the ability to crank the BK very low and long, because most of our winters are mild. We live in the Northern Sierra Nevada, overnight lows occasionally get down to the teens, and will have wood for our primary heat source.

1) It's a very dry climate. I'm worried my wood might be too dry for a BK? There's no recommended minimum moisture content mentioned in the owner's manual, but I read some comments here that 11-15%MC is the recommended minimum and drier wood might cause issues? I burn a mix of black oak and ponderosa pine.

2) Do I need to install a fan? It's not technically a "mobile home," (ie chattel) since it's on a foundation, but it is a manufactured home...who would I ask? State inspector?

I would definitely install an outside air kit. The blower is nice, but may not be necessary with a new well sealed home like you will have. It’s very easy to add later if you decide you want one.

 

[ben94122]

Yes, ask the local inspecting authority. If the house is bolted down to a permanent foundation it may not be under mobile home rules. If not, ask if an outside air supply is required in CA.

Draft is important for good stove performance. Approximately how tall will the flue system be? What altitude is the home at?

Thanks for the prompt replies!

I'll definitely install an outside air supply, because the house is very tight. We are 3500 ft elevation, and the flue will be about 19'.

The manual mentions that a blower fan is required for mobile homes, so I'll check with the inspectors whether this applies to our house. (I think it may be a state inspector rather than local inspector for a woodstove installation in CA, but I'll double-check.)

 

[webby3650]

Thanks for the prompt replies!

I'll definitely install an outside air supply, because the house is very tight. We are 3500 ft elevation, and the flue will be about 19'.

The manual mentions that a blower fan is required for mobile homes, so I'll check with the inspectors whether this applies to our house. (I think it may be a state inspector rather than local inspector for a woodstove installation in CA, but I'll double-check.)

Really? That’s not something I’ve ran into, no Ashfords going in mobile homes around here.. I know yours isn’t a mob really, unfortunately many higher ups don’t know the difference between a true mod, hud, and mob.
I assume it’s because the blower takes the place of the rear heat shield and there’s not a heat shield option on the Ashford like the other models.

 

[Poindexter]

@ben94122 , i burned 8 cords of spruce last season at 7-10% MC. I didnt break anything except the seal on a big jar of rolaids.

I did notice i was getting a relative muchness of heat quickly, not getting the burn times i was accustomed to, and my stack plume was more visible than ideal.

The sweet spot for my ashford 30 is fuel at 12-16% MC. Long burns and clean exhaust plume there. The stove will run on fuel up to 20 or even 22% mc.

A little google time with your zipcode in mind you should be able to come up with av temp and humidity for your hottest driest month, plug that into an EMC table to come up with your local equillibrium moisture content.

My local emc is about 11%, so splits stacked off the ground will equillobrate to 11% MC in June either this year or next year, and then pick a little moisture back up during the rainy cool months of jul and auf before i start burning in sep.

That is split, stacked off the ground and top covered.

To run em down to 7% i had my cords in a solar kiln, peak temps +140s dF and RH 10-20% in there.


You probably do want the fan kit for the convection deck given 2400sqft. I am running mine in 1200sqft, the deck fans make an enormous difference in being able to get the heat spread around all over the joint.

 

[Poindexter]

Aso @ben94122 , the BK manual says in it somewhere not burn construction scraps like 2x4 offcuts. The issue with small pieces of wood, kiln dried to about 7%mc when you buy then at lowes-depot os tou are going to have a lot of surface area burning fast, too much smoke for the cat to eat it all.

What i am getting at is if your local emc is gonna come in say 14% or less about, you want your splits to have a cross section on line with like a 4x4 or a 4x6 and at least 16" long. Less surface area burning per unit time so the combustor can keep up.

 

[Heftiger]

@ben94122 where in the Sierra’s are you? I’m also in Northern CA east of the Sierra’s. Love my Ashford. I burn exclusively lodgepole pine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

I'll definitely install an outside air supply, because the house is very tight. We are 3500 ft elevation, and the flue will be about 19'.

Sounds good. Will the flue be straight up? If so, it should work ok.

 

[Poindexter]

Kinda sorry about the spelling. The arthritis in my thumbs is acting up.

@kf6hap , i thought last year your osmosis through the gasket idea was plausible, but my door gasket fits about the same as you describe.

I think the incense burn is a good idea.

The math describing fluid flow through a square box gets ugly on a big hurry, i just watch the flames mive and have a glass of wine.

One thing that struck me this time aroubd is on your old stove there was something about the fire getting blown out with the door open. Have you got any tall trees nearby? Or a significant geological feature? I am just wondering if you might have good draft most of the time but then when the wind shifts your just a little your draft changes drastically? Curious if you can run and observe your manometer for extended periods?

There is a line of houses a few blocks from me at the crease between ridge slope and river flood plain that have draft problems in the evening when cooler air is dropping off the ridge, but they have great draft in the morning when air is rising up the slope.

 

[oldbluedeer]

I recently purchased a BK Sirocco, with the convection deck and fan kit as an add-on.

Question: What should the length of the BK thermometer be for this setup?

I read somewhere else that there are two lengths of thermometers available, and the convection deck requires the longer one. The thermometer that came with the stove has a 4" stem. It is just my gut feeling that the thermometer reads lower than what it should, as even when it is down in the "inactive" range I still have red coals showing. And after a full load of wood in the stove has burned down to maybe 1/3 full, I cannot keep it in the active range even if I turn up the thermostat to high, although I do get glowing coals and some flames. Thanks!

 

[Ashful]

It might be the last sparrow and some of us absolutely recommend against a filter on your chimney cap after having to clean those silly things of debris at the most inopportune time! If you start getting one bird a month or something then maybe some sort of deterrent is worth considering.

I've got a cage on each of mine, and neither have EVER required cleaning. You must be burning wet wood, Highbeam.

 

[lsucet]

I recently purchased a BK Sirocco, with the convection deck and fan kit as an add-on.

Question: What should the length of the BK thermometer be for this setup?

I read somewhere else that there are two lengths of thermometers available, and the convection deck requires the longer one. The thermometer that came with the stove has a 4" stem. It is just my gut feeling that the thermometer reads lower than what it should, as even when it is down in the "inactive" range I still have red coals showing. And after a full load of wood in the stove has burned down to maybe 1/3 full, I cannot keep it in the active range even if I turn up the thermostat to high, although I do get glowing coals and some flames. Thanks!

I will check if the little nut that holds the coil s not loose causing the coil to not read accurate. I think we had similar situation with other member here and the fix was to tight the nut.
If is not the right one I am sure BKVP will assist you.

 

[kf6hap]

Curious if you can run and observe your manometer for extended periods?
Yes, the sensing line (a piece of 1/4" copper pipe) is plugged into the cat thermometer hole.

 

[Highbeam]

I've got a cage on each of mine, and neither have EVER required cleaning. You must be burning wet wood, Highbeam.

I have two moisture meters, one from BK and one from HF. Fuel wood has always been in the mid teens % MC but it is often about 50% softwood. Back when the screen was clogging I was burning the hearthstone. It would clog with crown crunchy stuff even though the entire chimney would have nothing but a thin layer of brown dust on it. That hearthstone was a clean burner but had very little burn rate control. The BK chimney is always dirtier and cooler than the hearthstone chimney so I can only imagine that the screen would clog sooner.

I've removed the screen from the cap many years ago so I have had no screen cloggage problems. No head, no headache. Why introduce this failure point! Even without a screen, when the cat fails you can get some nasty tar icicles on the cap that partially block the outlet. That was gross.

There's a reason that duravent caps are available with and without a screen.

 

[Ashful]

I've removed the screen from the cap many years ago so I have had no screen cloggage problems. No head, no headache. Why introduce this failure point! Even without a screen, when the cat fails you can get some nasty tar icicles on the cap that partially block the outlet. That was gross.

I’m arguing it’s not a failure point, at least for me. Mine stay so clean that my chimney guy doesn’t even have to go up on the roof to clean it, since I installed the Ashfords. I’m doing about 6 cords per year on the one stove burning 12-hour batches, and 3 cords on the other burning 24-hour batches.

Now as to why you would want one? I had a squirrel get into my Jotul within three months of opening that chimney. It caused me $650 in parts to repair the damage he had done, plus a month of lost time burning while I waited for Jotul to ship the parts, plus a full day of tearing down and rebuilding that stove. I’d give almost anything to avoid that hassle again, and the screens have caused me zero trouble.

When I say “screen”, I’m using 5/8” mesh expanded metal, not hardware cloth or window screen. If you’re clogging that, you must be burning very, very dirty!

Yes, Duravent makes both options. They need to offer options to those who burn dirty stoves, but I don’t see why anyone running a BK would need to resort to that, unless they’re in a place so cold they’re dealing with ice clogging the cap.

Now, knowing you put a lot of effort into burning clean, what’s the difference? Hardwood vs. softwood? King vs. Ashford? I really want to know!

 

[Dieselhead]

New cat time, I guess the different coloring across it is part of the process they use? I don't remember what my last one looked like when it was new......