2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 2 (Everything BK)

begreen Posted By begreen, Jan 7, 2019 at 2:39 AM

  1. jetsam

    jetsam
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    Dec 12, 2015
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    1) Probably your imagination. I've never noticed a significant difference, and the stove burns front to back no matter how you load it.

    2) Sometimes right away, sometimes not until the wood finishes offgasing? Depends what you're burning, how wet it is, and how hot the stove is.

    3) It doesn't always, see above.

    4) If your gaskets are in good order and you're burning normal fuel (no loads of kerosene soaked wood chips), you don't have to worry about stovetops. I've never seen 800 on mine, but I've never burned anything but wood in it. 800 with fans on high would worry me considerably.

    5) You'll have false readings on your cat probe thermometer (it'll look lower than it is). Also your shoulder season burn times will be greatly impacted. The thermostat is going to open up the air to make up for all that heat you are blowing out. Check often to see how your creosote accumulation is going at the top of the flue.
     
  2. jetsam

    jetsam
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    Thermal conduction. *rim shot*
     
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  3. spudman99

    spudman99
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    The hot spot would grow as the heat transfers from the center outward. A constant 1500 deg heat in the middle top of the stove (from the cat) will radiate outward through the existing metal till an equilibrium temperature is reached in contact with the room air. Similar to when you hold a torch constant on a copper pipe, it will get hotter farther from the heat source over time, all other inputs remaining stable.
     
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  4. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    Those guys got it. Whether the thermostat is at max or just comfortably above stall, the cat temperature according to my condar cat temperature meter is always right near 1500. The fire below looks hotter but the cat stays the same.

    It’s quite fascinating. Maybe there is more primary combustion at higher stat settings. Surely stove output is higher at higher stat settings.

    I had a stove top meter for my bk but it was deemed useless and moved to the noncat.
     
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  5. begreen

    begreen
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    No, that doesn't account for more heat. With the copper pipe scenario that is just the same heat over a matter of time. It doesn't explain the range of output created by the thermostatic control.

    If the fire is burning more intensely in the firebox as compared to a low air smolder setting then it makes sense that with the more intense fire situation that there would be more radiant heat created, warming up the whole stove top and sides instead of just around the cat. Does that sound right?
     
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  6. bholler

    bholler
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    If that is true why does the cat probe not stay at a constant level untill it goes inactive? I measure stove top temps so that I know when the stove temp is starting to drop to a point it will no longer provide enough heat for my house instead of waiting for the temp in the house to drop.
     
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  7. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    That seems to be as good an idea as any.

    The cat temperature on my stove climbs up to about 1500 and just sits there until the fuel runs low. I’m sure that the thermostat is modulating the actual throttle blade to accomplish this.
     
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  8. lsucet

    lsucet
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    According to different setups, there is a point where heat is just going up the flue. Sometimes strong draft can suck all the heat and the thermostat takes longer to react to the firebox temp. I know this for a fact cause i have two setups and they behave different. One on 19' and the other on almost 24'. On the 19' setup with two 45s, I can run wide open and the stove gets super hot, the setup on 24' flue that is straight up, four o'clock is the WOT for me. If not once the flue temp is about 600 df is like it is pulling too much that the heat is going straight up the flue and i can hear the roaring noise.
    As the tstat closes or closing it manually, larger area on top and sides gets hotter, not just a spot. I never see any advantage on running the stoves WOT to can get more heat out of it.
     
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  9. Highbeam

    Highbeam
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    I think most stoves are more efficient at their lower, but still clean, burn rates. These bks seem very happy at low burn rates.
     
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  10. kennyp2339

    kennyp2339
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    I think its the difference with having flames in the fire box and an active cat vs, smoldering w/ active cat, but I get what your saying.
     
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  11. bholler

    bholler
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    Agreed
     
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  12. begreen

    begreen
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    Yes, that's what I said above ^.
     
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  13. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover
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    Right. I can vary how hot my cat is running since I manually control the air (how brightly it is glowing, since I don't have a direct cat probe hooked up.) The stove top temp near the cat will correspondingly increase or decrease.
     
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  14. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover
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    They offer the convection deck for the top as an option, that will shoot the air forward I think...
     
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  15. mar13

    mar13
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    The Blaze King brochure for the Chinook and other 30 series ( https://www.blazeking.com/manuals-and-brochures/) shows a very nice graph across the bottom of pages 10 and 11 which includes the flue temperature over a 40(!) hour period. The flue temp starts just above 300 degrees (330-350), but by hour 5, it's at 300 and drops below 300 at 24 hours.

    Would this be OK because either (1) the catalyst does removes most of the creosote-making material? or (2) by 5 hours it's mostly coals? I'm not knowledgeable about this.
     
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  16. jetsam

    jetsam
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    They should have run the stove up a little hotter before they turned the thermostat down on that burn, probably.

    If you had a short and insulated flue, that might still be okay.

    If not, you would probably get some creosote accumulation. That's also okay if you don't mind running a brush through it more often.

    Most people would want to start that long burn at a higher temperature, though (you just leave the thermostat on a higher setting until the stove warms up, then turn it down).
     
  17. mar13

    mar13
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    " The recordings were started when the combustor reached 640° F. The firebox was loaded with 58 lbs. of Western Larch. The thermostat was closed down to a low setting and the test was run on that single load. "

    To be fair, they did have the above statement in their explanation of the graph. So they probably did warm the flue up first.
     
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  18. Diabel

    Diabel
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    I will let my flue go up to 400-450 then will turn the star down to low burn
     
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  19. BKVP

    BKVP
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    Allow me since I generated that chart and ran that test run. The moisture in the fuel is long gone by the time you get much past the first few hours. The purpose of the chart is to show how erratic temperatures are when you burn an unmetered fuel....and that the thermostat meters out that heat. It acts as a shock absorber.
     
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  20. jetsam

    jetsam
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    I burn cooler than that myself, because I think it's easier to sweep frequently than to start fires all the time. I'm not going to recommend <300° flue temps to others, though. :)

    The thermostat is friggin' wonderful and seems to work better than a simple bimetal coil should. I set the dial for the outdoor temp forecast and walk away. That's magic in my book. :cool:
     
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  21. MissMac

    MissMac
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  22. jetsam

    jetsam
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    I started having real serious plugged-cat symptoms, and vacuuming the cat didn't help. It was due to be 38 last night and I didn't plan to be cold, so I pulled that puppy. This is an aftermarket steel cat in a princess insert.

    Image3192749406859150871.jpg

    It had significant ash obstruction on the back face after ~1.5 seasons. Gave it a quick brush and vac, and the stove is burning like a champ again. I have a new gasket on order, burning without one (for the first time) atm. Stove doesn't seem to mind.

    Based on this, I don't know if I'll continue to use steel. I love the fast light-off time, but I light a new fire maybe 3 or 4 times a year, so I don't get very much mileage out of it.

    BK ships ceramic cats in this stove, and I think I finally see why. The original ceramic one had no backside plugging after 2.5 seasons.
     
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  23. Dieselhead

    Dieselhead
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    4 splits and some mill ends last night, was 64 in the house and damp from all the rain. Set on low it was a nice 69 in the house all night into this am no more cool bone chilling temps.
     
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  24. Ashful

    Ashful
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    I’ve also found that simply vacuuming the face of the cat doesn’t really get the job done, I’ve found the back-side plugged, as well.

    At this point, I’ve just accepted that part of running a BK Ashford is removing and un-plugging the cat once or twice per year. Not a huge deal, just a little frustrating when it plugs in the middle of a cold spell.

    My stove on the tall chimney was plugging the original steel cats any time I’d run the stove on a high setting, and if I tried to run the stove on high all day, it would plug it solid in just a day or two. I seem to be able to go a full season on the stove with the short chimney, before I have to pull and clean the combustor.

    Installing a key damper on that taller chimney certainly helped a lot. I suspect going ceramic on that stove helped some, too... although I already had the key damper installed before I did that, so I can’t say for sure. I still had to shut down to vacuum the face of that cat twice this year, but didn’t have to remove it for cleaning the back side.
     
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  25. jetsam

    jetsam
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    Dec 12, 2015
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    I had zero plugging on the back of my larger-celled ceramic cat after ~2.5 years. The cell size likely matters for this.
     

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